Search results

Is that the current or the low reading? low would be under 8.0. Tanks ebb and flow could be a few thing. I would start with flow, water changes and some carbon and see if that stops it. You want to make sure the corals are getting what they need. And as the tank grows out that can be hard as...

Cyano doesn't usually kill corals but DINO's definitely do. Any chance you have picture of it.

Well not sure whats going to happen once renovations are done. I imagine a break from reefing. And if I were to setup another tank more renovations build a true home for a tank.

Well I will be posting a for sale thread at some point. Kills me but.... what are you going to do I do not know how i got that out in one piece or how I got it in a 150 stock tank, in one piece. It barely fits in the stock tank It was a long day that is weighing heavy on my family.

Well the time has come to close the door on this tank. it was a tough decisions but I need to do work on my house. And trying to support a temporary tank for the duration of renovations is not in the cards I love large corals I do not care what they are so I leave you with this from my tank

Plaster performs better than Sheetrock with moisture.

I would say if you are leaning that way go that way it is a personal choice, just make sure you are not putting fish in the tank that are sand dwelling I have run bare bottom, just not my cup of tea. Flow should never be the driving force on this decision I think if you understand flow...

Wouldn't think of it. Not a piece of brass anywhere in my setup

yup had CO2 in my well water. All of a sudden I was going through 1-10" cartridge making 30-60gal of water. I have to drip and aerate the water after the RO unit then pump it through the DI stage with a peristaltic pump. This is the setup I use to gas off CO2

Yeah nothing is 100% in this case. I would get things that are know to eat it that you actually want in the tank. the risk is there are no guarantees That leaves manual removal and blowing the rocks/hair algae out with a power head with more frequent water changes. Water changes are to reduce...

Understand MoeK dubbed it the scourge of death and rightfully so years ago. The longer you wait the worse the fight will be. If you are at the point you can see them forming in the water column at lights on then they are rooted pretty deep. if within 10minutes the coat everything in the tank...

what are you doing? mainly you stop doing everything you would to fight algae. no carbon, no water changes, no phosphate removers. You want to elevate you PH 8.4. Dripping lime/kalkwater is good for this. And reduced light cycle. once you see it dying back light out. and I mean lights out...

I use a two part system I use a peristaltic pump to fill my top off bucket with about a gallon over my daily evap. Then let the tunze ATO take care of it from there.

Are you sure it hair algae and not byropsis?

Good read on water changes, gives some data on daily versus monthly which is interesting. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/ As far as method for lower cost daily water change system I would also lean towards the peristaltic/dosing pump method.

its funny as I read this article http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/air-bubbles-to-improve-reef-water-chemistry I was thinking what Dong was. We use skimmer to blow off CO2 from the output of a CO2 reactor why would it not have the same effect. But I am not sure it is beneficial past a certain...

Congrats looks like the leak is working out for the better :)

If you look by the plumbing you can see water stains there. Replace the tank ASAP

If you look at the top of this thread Greg posted a poll with the topics he is trying to decide from Gregs Bio (backround) http://reefkeeping.com/authors/gh.php

I use a peristaltic pump to move my Top off water through the DI to smaller top off container. You could try Greg Hiller to see if he has any peristaltic pumps he has salvaged.