40 Breeder Peninsula Build

ok guys, running into a dilemma. i can not figure out for the life of me how to tune/stabilize this beananimal overflow system.

i found out that i needed to drill 1/4 inch hole into main drain to start a siphon. but it still seems like the drain that is only supposed to trickle down is flowing rather quickly.

i currently only have the ball valve on the main drain and a gate valve on the pump return.

i am running 3/4 pipe with 2 returns and a 680gph return pump.

HELP!
 
I am not sure what you mean about a 1/4 inch drain to start a syphon. If you have the. All valve closed some as soon as the water gets above the pipe and cuts the air it will start a syphon. Unless air some how gets trapped in the pipe. But that seems unlikely.
 
+1 I agree with Chris I never have to start my siphon after a shut off it starts on its own. You get better control if you have a gate valve on the full siphon(main drain) and drain two should have an air line in the cap like a typical durso stand pipe if the hole is not big enough or if it is clogged you are going to have to much flow through it. You are not to far from me maybe 30min tops with traffic if you want you can come check mine out.
 
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/equipment/75666-bean-animal-overflow.html

see in post 12. thats where i found that info. the overflow acts the same either way with or without 1/4 hole, just the siphon starts quicker.

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i am still not sure if i follow.
the closed cap should be the main syphon. in your pictures the middle will be the 2ndary drain. and the one on the right is the main syphon. correct? also if i understand you have a gate valve on your return going to both returns? i would recomend against this if your pump is a magneto driven pump as back pressure on the impeller is not recommended. a better way to reduce flow is to place T on the return line with a redirect to the sump. the redirect line would have a valve the more open that valve is the less will go into the display as more water would dump back into the sump.
 
i see waht you mean with the holes on the 2 elbows that face down. yes your right it will cet air locked if you dont. but do you need the elbow?
 
Cilyjr
Right pipe is main drain
Middle is secondary with air line
Left is emergency

Yes I have gate Valve on return
Pump is rio 2500

I have looked at site. My system seems similar minus piping diameter

Also a picture of yours might help

Reeferpj
The holes are not on elbows
It's just above water level in sump on main drain
 
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Sorry for delay! Have been rather busy.
Ready for staining tonight.
Hope to have water in it by saturday

What do you guys think is a good height for 24 Cree led fixture to be from top of tank?
 
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What do you guys think is a good height for 24 Cree led fixture to be from top of tank?

will it be a waterproof/enclosed fixture? if so, i would say you would want it within a few inches of the surface, especially if you plan to grow coral on/near the sandbed. most importantly, you'll need to find a good balance between light penetration and the spread of the light pattern in order to get as much light to the bottom of the tank while at the same time making sure you get light to the sides of the tank as well.
 
I have 80* optics for penetration. Guys with similar LEDs just 36 of them run them about 12" above water. But they have to dim them down to 40% or so. Was hoping to keep it up little higher but use full potential of light
 
I would say 24 Cree LED wouldn't be enough for the 40g tank.
Since you will have at least 2 MW ELN48-60, why not go for 36-40 Cree LED. (on two drivers)
 
you wont get the cord of the MP10 down into the stand "cleanly" because the controller is attached to the other end of it. also to add they do not have suction cups only a magnet so vortech wants you to run the cord up to a clip with a ziptie incase the magnet fails this will hold the unit in place.
40 breeders dont have to thick of glass though and you can prob. get away without doing this.
the cleanest way i can think of doing something for flow is to add a small closed loop on that side of the tank and i personally would prob. have it draw water from under the overflow.

to quiet your overflow you need a piece of rigid air tubing coming out of the holes drilled in the down drains.
 
Kungfu kid I'm gonna try 24 because guys with 36 are bleaching there corals. If worse comes to worse ill add leds

Thanks one fish for ideas.
Here's a pic on how I ran mp10
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I removed casing and removed plug from bored and so I could run up that channel. 1/4 glass magnet should hold

Thanks guys!
 
You can totally do 24 crees. Especially if you make two or three 'spotlights' and group them together, you can keep the light leak off the glass have less issues with algae there. I bet you could drive them at 75% 18" off the water too.

I run 8 crees 10" off the water in my 29g peninsula and haven't had any issues keeping sps color up. I can't keep anything by LPS at the bottom of the tank but I almost think less intense is the way to go with leds IME.
 
I'm gonna be running 39 CREE over my 40g breeder. It's all good. That's why they have a dimmer. :applause:

Oh and btw BIG kudos on using my idea (your idea too actually) of routing the cord thru the stand. Came out awesome and super clean! I can see many other people doing this in the future.
 
Can I borrow that gun? Lol i'm staining the stand of my 40g hopefully tomorrow. Chose to do Minwax Poly-Stain Classic Black Satin.
 
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