Arctic T-247 Spotlight mod (Vero 18 high CRI LED

RMc

Non-member
I've been eyeballing the Kessil LEDs. Mostly because I love the way metal halides look, but cannot justify trading in a perfectly good fixture. This got me to thinking on how I might go about adding more shimmer and shadow to the tank.

Parts:
Vero 18 5600k 90CRI LED + optic (lying around from another project)
FLAT HEATPIPE 65W 3.5X11.2X150MM
LED SUPPLY CC AC/DC 20-50V 1.05A

The Arctic T-247 is currently fitted with two heatsinks that run the left and right side of the fixture. Running the long way between these two heatsinks are the supplies for channel 1 and channel 2.

It fits together such that there is a small area of clearance dead center in the unit. What I will do is drill a hole in the bottom of the fixture large enough for the Vero 18 LED optic to poke out. I will then span the 65W flat heatpipe across the gap between the two heatsinks. Each end will be affixed using arctic alumina thermal epoxy. The Vero 18 will be glued to the center of the heat pipe facing down using the same thermal epoxy. For now I will keep the LED supply in the base of the tank and run two lines alongside the current AC cord into the unit. I will control the LED supply using a reef Angel tank controller.

Ended up being less ambitious than I anticipated. 2 hours of work end to end, most of which was spent trying to pry the LED off the heatsink I had it mounted to.

http://robmccarthy.imgur.com/all/
LED Supply (Analog Dimmable 1.05Amp)

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Inside the top half of the assembly

http://robmccarthy.imgur.com/all/
Inside the bottom half of the assembly

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Vero 18 90CRI 5000k and a 65W flattened heat pipe. The LED was mounted to an old PC heatsink. I used arctic alumina as a thermal epoxy - and now I respect the phrasing "permanent adhesive" - Despite my new found respect - a sharp knife and some aggressive prying had it removed. Visions of impaling myself had me take a nice slow 15 minute go at it.

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I've wanted to use a heat pipe in a mod or LED project for a while now.

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Time for the holes! Promoted an old cutting board to a craft board and drilled the whole thing over an old flower pot. Used a $15 hole saw set I bought on ebay. It's more than paid for itself.

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Mounted with Arctic Silver alumina (again... permanently bonded). Lens attached. The aluminum base of the LED does hang off the heat pipe a bit. I exercised the LED for 5 minutes or so and everything was still cool enough to touch.

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When all put together the reflector doesn't QUITE fit... I'm going to have to carve up the plastic casing on one of the power supplies to make enough room.
 
To do:
- Attach to reef angel for analog dimming (waiting for 2 pin female adapter)
- Ditch the straight wire from LED to power supply and replace it with a 12v and 24V adapter
- Get the LED power supply into a more permanent box
- Investigate narrower optics (just a bit too wide / wastes too much juice on the wall)
- UV leds are discoloring the plastic Lenses - I may move to 430nm and up only. May add more warm white to the fixture to richen up reds.

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Impressions:
- I like it... the Vero 18 decorator series is a very nice light - much closer to sunlight than other cool white leds. It still lacks a certain richness - but for the heat and electricity savings over halide, it's worth it.
 
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Frogspawn has reacted very well to the new light. For the last two months it has not expanded completely. After one day under the new vero it's stretching back out again. I expected the results to be almost completely aesthetic, so this is a nice surprise.

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Added dimming through a reef angel.

The RA has a pwm output (0-10v) and the led driver I selected uses an analog input of 0-10v for dimming. To get around this issue I've used a simple rc circuit. The compromise when selecting rc for ripple control is responsiveness vs absorption of ripples. Like picking shocks for a car - really soft suspension will make for a smooth ride, but you won't be finishing first on the track.

For this circuit slow response is preferable, so I chose a relatively high capacitance / resistance of 480uf and 5k ohms. When turning the unit on from 0% to 100% duty cycle it takes approximately 5s for the voltage to reach 10v - this makes for nice smooth dimming even with abrupt changes to duty cycle.

Not everything is perfect though... I can't seem to dim below 2v. In poking around the circuit I realize that ive only used a 2 prong ac plug when wiring the driver and I seem to have some grounding issues. I'm measuring 60vac and 300uA from the chassis to earth ground.

Tonight I'll try rewiring with earth ground.
 
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