Curren's 180G Build

[Curren007K]

So my wife and I are buying a house in Spencer, MA.
We're closing the end of September and then the fun begins with moving my current 75G to our next 180G setup!

I found a great deal on a 180G reef ready tank, stand, and canopy on Craigslist.
I plan on resealing it with fresh silicone for peace of mind, I usually do with all my used tanks, and repainting the stand and canopy.
The plan now is to have a 33G frag tank in the stand and plumb down to the basement for my 150G Rubbermaid sump.
Also have 175lbs of dry rock which I have to give nice bleach and acid baths before I cycle it.

Plumbing wise I'll have one over flow drain directly to the sump in the basement and the other drain into the frag tank. From the frag tank I'll have two drains down into the sump.
All three drain lines end with filter socks in the skimmer compartment which will be a Rubbermaid bin over the 150G stock tank.
The return line will have a ball valve for easy water changes, three taps for future uv sterilizer, calcium reactor, and media reactor, then up to the display tank.
Planned for a 10X turn over rate and took into account the loss of height and fittings to be used and ended up buying a ReeFlo Manta Ray. She's a beast!

Here's some cad designs for the setup, can't wait to get started.

 

[mnavick]

Congrats and welcome to Spencer

 

[Flame Angel]

Looks like you have put some thought into this.
Is this to scale or can you get in between your water change station and your sump?
What about a piece of foam under your pump for vibration?
I am trying to remember if ball valves or gate valves are better? I know I hate the valve that use to be on my pool filter as it never quite worked well.
Always go to have a little extra plumbing for expansion like you already planned.
Do you have a discharge pipe for your water changes?

Just curiosity questions.

 

[Curren007K]

Congrats and welcome to Spencer

Thank you!

Looks like you have put some thought into this.
Is this to scale or can you get in between your water change station and your sump?
What about a piece of foam under your pump for vibration?
I am trying to remember if ball valves or gate valves are better? I know I hate the valve that use to be on my pool filter as it never quite worked well.
Always go to have a little extra plumbing for expansion like you already planned.
Do you have a discharge pipe for your water changes?

Just curiosity questions.

There's limited space between the sump and the mix station, im adding a jack post between the two for added support to the floor joists. I plan on doing just that, can only imagine with the power the reeflo manta draws it will be vibrating. I'll be using Hayward true union ball valves mostly, but gate valves for the future reactors.

Thanks for the feedback!

One thing I need to look into is installing a utility sink in the basement for cleaning equipment annd easily disposing of waste water. How would that work tying into the main house drain? I'm not familiar with commercial plumbing, but a sink being at a lower elevation than the main drain line would be working against gravity.

 

[mnavick]

Would need an injector pump.
My DT is on my upper level with a sump/fuge in basement and basement plumbing is all below drain height.

 

[Flame Angel]

Are you draining it into a septic system? I hear that salt can cause issues there in regards to the decomposition and salt blocking the leeching.

 

[toddhgr]

Not only issues with decomp but the salt could eventually destroy your concrete septic tank.

 

[Curren007K]

Ahh thanks for the heads up. We do have a septic/leech field.

 

[Curren007K]

Decided to make a rock solid stand and canopy instead of using the cheap faux wood pieces that came with the tank.
Designed the concept in CAD, pulled some demensions and came up with a material list. Looking forward to getting started.

 

[Flame Angel]

A lot of people go that route

 

[Curren007K]

My take my time setting up the 180G is turning into a rush job!
Drew up some new plans for the stand, and modeled out my house.
Starting the build on the stand this weekend, and adding some 6x6 supports in my basement (old timber frame, reinforcing an older beam to support the joists)
Ahhhhh!!!

 

[Curren007K]

Progress update.

The stand is built, stained, and just waiting for a coat of poly.
The tank is resealed and the back of it is painted, doing a leak test this weekend before bringing it inside and starting the plumbing. eace:

I used a table saw to knotch the supports so the frames rest in place and the weight is directly distributed onto the supports.


All trimmed up to cover the rim of the tank.


First coat of stain.


Very happy with the turn out of the cabinet doors. The front and sides of the stand will all be accessible, hell I can fit in the stand if I ever need to.


Nice thick bead of smooth silicone. Use a rubber bouncy ball and dip it in rubbing alcohol, the perfect seal every time!

 

[Curren007K]

More progress updates...

The stand all stained, polyurethaned, with doors attached in its final resting place.


Cut in a new supply line for my RODI unit. ProPress is fantastic, and very simple to install.


Replaced the existing drain plug in the 150G Rubbermaid stock tank with a new 1.5" bulkhead.

PRO-TIP: Leave the old plug installed and use a 2-3/8" hole saw with pilot bit so you have something to grab on to and drill through. If you have the older style stock tank you'll have to use a hack saw to cut out the ribs on the inside and a palm sander to smooth the plastic down afterwards.


Started the rough-in plumbing.


The skimmer compartment over the sump, still need to drill drains into it.

 

[Flame Angel]

Some real nice detail you have going on here.

 

[reef87]

nice. tank looking good.

 

[Curren007K]

Some real nice detail you have going on here.

nice. tank looking good.

Thanks! Have a busy weekend ahead of me.
Getting the tank in place, gluing all the fittings, setting up my mix station, washing the dry rock, adding the sand to the display and filling the sump and tank to cycle.

 

[Curren007K]

Originally I was planning for a 33G frag tank in the stand.
After reconsidering, I'm opting for one future 20G long frag tank tied into the main system and a separate 20G long quarantine system.
All the work put into the main 180G display system I don't want to take any chances. I'd like the peace of mind that comes with a quarantine tank.

 

[Curren007K]

So this weekend was crazy. I got all my plumbing glued and the tank in place. That sucker is heavy, I needed 3 other guys and a two wheeler to navigate it through my house.

Started to fill up my system and my well ran dry! So I started freaking out thinking I'd have to have a new well drilled since mine is a shallow well.
I pulled the concrete cap off and realized I still have plenty of water. I figured it must be a mechanical issue I was worried either the pump or pressure tank was going to need to be replaced.
Luckily it turned out to be a cracked fitting in the pump intake which was sucked in air and not drawing water.
I got it replaced, the pump primed, and re pressurized and its working again.
However I'm off schedule, I needed to have the tank filled already to start cycling.

I ended up ordering 400 gallons of water to have my system filled this coming Saturday.
It sucks you end up paying per truckload, 9,000 gallons, but I was in a bind and they are able to get me filtered rodi water stable for an aquarium.

The tank in place.


The sump set up.


The mix-station put together.


Once the water's filled this weekend I'll finish setting up the heater and phosphate reactor. Mix the salt, treat the water. Add the sand and rock and let the magic happen.

 

[Curren007K]

Another fun weekend!

I had the water delivered, the tank's filled up with 300G of water, then I had to do an emergency drain and store the water in extra barrels down in the basement.
One of the return line fittings failed right where it was glued to the bulkhead. I had to cut out a section of the pipe from the union ball valve to the bulkhead. After replacing the bulkhead I just had to install and extra coupling to reconnect the pipe.
There's was also a small leak down at the pump, the adapter just needed another quarter turn with a wrench.

Happy to say there's currently no more leaks!
The water's cycling, at the target temperature, the rock and sand are in place, and I add some liquid bacteria to expedite the process.
Can't wait for the water to clear up.

Also installed a new circuit dedicated to the tank equipment and tied it into my generator panel in case of emergency.
Added two switches, one upstairs in the tank stand for the return pump down stairs, and another for the mix station pump to make life easier.

I'll be moving my 75G from New York to the 180G in our new home in Spencer, MA this weekend.
I have a very stressful day planned!

Houston, we have water!


The sump's up and running. 800W finnex heater w/ controller, 20G Skimmer compartment - bringing the skimmer this weekend, filter socks for the drain lines, 5G cheato bucket, GFO Reactor, and future taps for calcium reactor and uv sterilizer.


Reeflo Manta Ray return pump. This thing is truly a beast.
I contacted the manufacturer because I'm worried it already has bad/improperly greased bearings.
It's running very hot, too hot to touch. It's very loud and sending out very strong vibrations with a hint of a grinding sound and an odor of hot plastic.
I took a peak inside to make sure it's wired for the low voltage setting, you can switch bewtween 115/220 and it was.
I also took off the back plate hoping to increase the air flow to cool the motar down.
Waiting for them to get back to me. I know these usually need a two week break in period where after they're not "as" loud but we'll see.
Also the unit is already on a rubber pad, and I had to add some rubber around the pvc fittings to try and soften the vibrations.
They're echoing up the stair well to the second floor! I was reading people have had luck switching the intake to flex pvc, so I may try that if it doesn't calm down.

 

[Curren007K]

Reeflo Manta Ray return pump. This thing is truly a beast.
I contacted the manufacturer because I'm worried it already has bad/improperly greased bearings.
It's running very hot, too hot to touch. It's very loud and sending out very strong vibrations with a hint of a grinding sound and an odor of hot plastic.
I took a peak inside to make sure it's wired for the low voltage setting, you can switch bewtween 115/220 and it was.
I also took off the back plate hoping to increase the air flow to cool the motar down.
Waiting for them to get back to me. I know these usually need a two week break in period where after they're not "as" loud but we'll see.
Also the unit is already on a rubber pad, and I had to add some rubber around the pvc fittings to try and soften the vibrations.
They're echoing up the stair well to the second floor! I was reading people have had luck switching the intake to flex pvc, so I may try that if it doesn't calm down.

Reeflo got back to me, as it is a high speed pump the Manta mortar operates at 140 degrees keeping the heat outside of the water column.
So don't touch it! It does have a thermal override switch if the pump gets to hot it shuts itself down.
As for the excessive vibrations they recommended removed the intake/discharge head and briefly testing the pump dry.
If the excessive vibrations/noise are still present its a mechanical issue, if not could be a problem with the set up.
I have to experimenting to do.