Ich!!!

There isn't one. 99% of the bottles "cures" you see on the market are snake oil. Unless you are willing to quarantine all of your fish for an extended period of time, you should research ways to keep your fish healthy, thus hiding the ich. I'd be willing to bet if you tested most home reef tanks, a vast majority of them would show positive for ich. Some definitely wouldn't, but those are people who have extensive quarantine setups and processes.
 
Copper works, but unless you're running fish-only tank, it requires removing the fish and treating them in quarantine tanks and leaving main tank fallow for 60ish days. Otherwise, the Skeeter 7424 option.
 
remove all fish and qt with copper power. Tank fallow 76 days. there is no real reef safe display tank treatment
 
You can run the tank at 80.6 and cut down the fallow time. Humble talks about it on his site. 45 days fallow gets all but 1 know ich variant. I qtd rock at 81 degrees to hasten things up and saw zero effects to the life. Sensitive corals may be another thing.

If you do plan to run fallow, think about adding stuff you wanted to like shrimps, snails, maybe other corals etc and then just use your DT as a QT. Provided you properly treat the fish and don’t cross contaminate your tanks, in as little as 45 days you could be disease free again!
 
You can help the fish kick it by reducing stress and elevated temps help speed the parasite life cycle along. Reducing stress comes in many forms, effective feeding with quality foods... removing aggressive tankmates that antagonize the others... stabilizing water parameters if they are variable at short time scales (within the day or week, like you would not want swings in temp or pH that are high, or salinity)... maintaining a stable temperature and running it in the 75-79 degree range 24 hours a day/365 is a goal for most marine fish. Many people don’t know that tank temp drifts for them unless they check frequently or have a controller and use it. I hope you can get the fish healthy. Some think you have to go fallow and QT in separate tanks to get rid of it. I personally don’t think I would do that to a fish or group of fish unless I had a great appropriate QT system for that purpose. Most people don’t. It can be made a non issue with other methods.
 
You can help the fish kick it by reducing stress and elevated temps help speed the parasite life cycle along. Reducing stress comes in many forms, effective feeding with quality foods... removing aggressive tankmates that antagonize the others... stabilizing water parameters if they are variable at short time scales (within the day or week, like you would not want swings in temp or pH that are high, or salinity)... maintaining a stable temperature and running it in the 75-79 degree range 24 hours a day/365 is a goal for most marine fish. Many people don’t know that tank temp drifts for them unless they check frequently or have a controller and use it. I hope you can get the fish healthy. Some think you have to go fallow and QT in separate tanks to get rid of it. I personally don’t think I would do that to a fish or group of fish unless I had a great appropriate QT system for that purpose. Most people don’t. It can be made a non issue with other methods.

If you want to manage it then I agree with the above of reducing stressors and providing stability. But to “get rid” of it you need to remove and treat fish then take the DT fallow. Understanding the life cycle of ich helps understand why the treatment plans are what they are.

Good topic to ask Bobby to discuss when he does his zoom call for the club.
 
If you want to manage it then I agree with the above of reducing stressors and providing stability. But to “get rid” of it you need to remove and treat fish then take the DT fallow. Understanding the life cycle of ich helps understand why the treatment plans are what they are.

Good topic to ask Bobby to discuss when he does his zoom call for the club.
I agree with your suggestions that you can use the DT fallow / proper QT Method to hopefully rid a system of Ich, a discussion of the parasite life cycle is a good idea, to help increase understanding. It is a long road to beat it completely, and not one all hobbyists are equipped to deal with or have physical space to accommodate, which was the reason for my post being worded the way it was. I was not implying that the parasites would go away because of good husbandry, I was implying the fish would not be bothered by them anymore if they were more “fit” to do that.
 
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Keep the garlic for vampires, I’d prefer you to ensure its eating a high quality food soaked in vitamins. I’d recommend Larry’s if you can get it. But adding selcon or similar will also help. Plenty of nori if it’s a herbivore.
 
The fish should pull through. Is it the alpha? Maybe he/she is running ragged defending the empire from the rest of your livestock. Being El Jefe is a big job, and challenges the fish that takes it on.
 
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