Kessil A360w

jcherepo

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
#1
I have a 9 year old Kessil A360W e-series that stopped working on me the other day. Trying to figure out if it is the power supply or the fixture itself. Anyone in the Providence area also use one that would be willing to let me try my light in their power supply?
Thanks,
Joe



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jcherepo

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
#3
Hey Dong - I am not sure if the power supply is the problem or if the actual light is toast.


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dz6t

Acro Garden, BRS Sponsor
BRS Member
#4
Is there a green LED light on the original power supply? I don’t remember any more as I no longer use Kessil for years.
You can use a multi meter to see if the power supply is working, it should put out 19v.
I guess most likely it is the power supply.
If there was a power surge, the whole unit might be fried, but for a 9 years old Kessil, it is time to replace it anyway.


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JBendel

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
#5
If it is the power supply, I am currently using an old notebook charger on one of mine, just check the ratings (they are typically 19V out, pout is the challenge). One of my kessils went out about a year ago, and was able to repair it, but it is very tedious. If you get to that point, I can explain my approach, but I was never able to find a schematic. As Dong mentioned, replacing may be a better approach.
 

jcherepo

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
#6
Thanks. My voltage meter reads 19 so it appears to be the actual light. I will probably try to disassemble as I am not in a position to pull the trigger on a new light at this moment.
Thanks,
Joe



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JBendel

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
#7
For what it is worth, on mine there are two switching regulators(boost) each operating off their own Richtek RT8462GS, which are in a 14 pin package. You will see two identical circuits on the pcb. I Ramp up the Voltage (lab supply) and it was obvious which devices were getting hot, so I unsoldered those and the other regulator started working and LED's turned on. Shotgunned the failed circuit and replaced the FET, Richtek PWM, boost diode and an LDO ... maybe $10 in total off digikey and was back in business. The real hassle is that the PCB is conformal coated, so that has to be scraped off. The parts are SMT, so you'll need to be able to deal with that. If your failure is similar, I can probably track down the other parts I used. Kessil would not tell me the part numbers, and the small SMT's markings are difficult to read.
 

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