My shallow frag tank addition

luu78

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
Hi everyone, Ive been meaning to set up a frag tank once again. This time around, I will plumb it directly to my DT in the living room, instead of a separate system in my bedroom like in the past requiring separate water quality checks. My DT water parameters should be more stable with the addition of this frag tank set up at the same time. Thanks to letoan and reefaddict, whom I recently acquired the acrylic frag tank and the 6 bulb T5 fixture from. The dimensions of the tank, light and the dresser I have laying around the bedroom fit the tight area behind my DT nicely. I will repurpose the dresser as a tank stand and kitchen organizer. Its structurally sound to hold the weight of this shallow acrylic frag tank once leveled and shimmed properly with wood.

Frag tank is located directly behind DT with about 6" of gap in between for easier tank maintenance and future installs of the custom sized ATO reservoir and the anti-flood reservoir (since my DT refugium is limited in size and things are very lively in there now, I dont want to upgrade it and screw up the ecology of the whole system). I plan to make a long acrylic tank (6"W x 48"L x 20"H) with 2 chamber in it to achieve this. I plan to slide it in the gap between both tanks. I will drill approximately 1" below the top of my refugium and plumb this over to the anti-flood chamber since power outages seem to be the norm here. Currently, Ive calibrated the DT overflow chamber and set the ATO level in the refugium based on the MAX speed on the adjustable JEBAO DC 9000 return pump. With all power turned off, I verified that there are still about 2" at the top of the refugium before flooding occur when I shut the system down as in the case of an outage. To compensate for residual drainage from both tanks due to worn check valves and how long before I get home from work etc...I have much more peace of mind once this anti flood reservoir is added. I live on the 3rd floor and flooding is a big No No.

The build.....

Due to the tempered glass on top of the dresser, I patched up the 2 holes made on the bottom of frag tank using WELDON 3. I decided to make a corner overlfow instead, for a cleaner look:

Bought tank with the 2 predrilled holes at bottom:
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The frag tank overflow: I made a corner overflow box with hole drilled on the side and teed it back into the 1" overflow hose of the DT
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The return: I teed from the DC9000 3/4" outlet with a ball valve and a check valve for emergency shutoff. At the moment, its running with valve fully opened. For now, want the water to exit in the middle of the water columm thus I have to drill a tiny hole at an angle right above water level to cut off siphon right after an outage. Even though a check valve is in place, residual drainage due to buildup within the check valve causes it not to shut off completely allowing water to seeps thru slowly.

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Syphon cut hole
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Return tee:
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Pic of system up and running:
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I plan to make an acrylic light hanger sometimes this weekend or next week while waiting for the bulbs to arrive from MarineDepot. Once in place, the top of the light fixture should be flushed with the top of the DT. In the mean time, Im going to do some planning/measuring for the frag racks that I will be making. I greatly enjoy working with acrylics and have learn quite a few things throughout the build. I will keep updating as I make progress.





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All trhe sun corals are in it now. Never got to make the light stand. The new bulbs arrived from MarineDepot


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Been doing side jobs fixing cars to feed this hobby


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Been doing side jobs fixing cars to feed this hobby


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atleast u are getten paid im always fixxing my car cutting in to my fish funds =(
i blow out my wheel bearings every 6 months on my g35x:mad:
nice little frag tank u set up coming along nice
 
atleast u are getten paid im always fixxing my car cutting in to my fish funds =(
i blow out my wheel bearings every 6 months on my g35x:mad:
nice little frag tank u set up coming along nice

Repairs are normal but if the same wheel bearings are being replaced you must check the quality of parts and if theyre properly torqued. Bent knuckles will put stress on bearings. Lowered vehicles really put stress on bearings. Is it lowered?


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Heres the sliding platform that I made so far. I will brace the platform with vertical acrylic ribs on bottom to give flexibility for frag rack options in the future as well. Linda like dual purpose thing. I find it hard to bond thick acrylics. Weldon 3 doesnt melt it enough to fuse together by the traditional method. If anyone have advise on thick acrylic bonding thats cost effective please let me
know. I tried to roughened the contact surfaces prior to applying Weldon 3 on both sides and it seems to improve bonding strength. I have 4mm acrylic screws which I will tap 4mm threads into the bonding edges and screw these acrylic screws with Weldon 3 applied for a permanent bond. Giving me a more secured structure to hold about 12 lbs of weight of the T5's. Im still tinkering with the height adjustability of T5's via the acrylic stand that will bond to the sliding platform.

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