Newbie... Could use some advice and recommendations

Wgivens

Non-member
Hey guys,

1. I just want to say thank you in advance for everyone or anyone who comments to this thread or any others for that matter. Having communities and forums like this really provide great learning for newbies like myself and it seems like it even works for experienced reefers as well. So thanks!!!

2. I just set up my first aquarium with a sump and I am really excited about the possibilities. I attached some pictures. Let me know what you think....

3. 75 Gallon with a 30 gallon sump. Octopus 110 protein skimmer, bio balls and live rock in the sump and a UV sterilizer. I brought about 75 pounds of live rock off of this site from another reefer which was good and bad. I got some cool pieces of coral that was on the rock and are starting to open up but I really cant identify them (I believe they are button polyps but not 100% sure) If you know the correct names please let me know. Other then that I purchased a rock with green star polyps, a Kenya tree coral and blue pulsing Xenia. All doing well right now although the Kenya tree coral wont stand completely just yet. But I am giving him some time to get acclimated. The bad part is I have a ton of aptashia growing everywhere. A lot of his rocks had it growing and I am doing research on how to get rid of it as I see they sting corals and bother corals if you dont remove them.

4. For fish I have a yellow tang, a blenny, a coral banded shrimp, a baby ocellaris clown fish, a six line wrasse and an long tip anemone. Now doing more research and planning I realize I may have gotten the six line wrasse and yellow tang too soon as people are saying those fish should be added last. So far they have been buddies and have been playing nice.

5. I could use some recommendations for which coral to look into. Which fish would go well with my current ones. Lighting for a 75 gallon tank, as the light I have now is a marineland LED and I think I will need to upgrade if I want to get better corals.

6. Either way overall thoughts and advice is much appreciated.

Thanks again!

W fish tank 5.jpgfishtank7.jpgfishtank6.jpgfishtank4.jpgFish tank3.jpgFish tank2.jpgFish tank1.jpgfish tank 9.jpgfish tank 8.jpgfishtank8.jpg
 
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Can you give some more info , such as age of set up , big 3 parameters. salinity kept , means of top off etc etc ?
 
So I set up the tank about 2 - 3 months ago. Did about a month and a half cycle before adding anything... The rock has been in there for a month or so before adding any fish or other corals that wasn't on the rock when I bought it.

Once again I am new to this... so in looking at the test strip and chart...

Nitrate - 20
Nitrite- 0
Total Alkalinity - 300
PH -8.4

Salinity is at 1.22

I have started doing bi weekly water changes with ro/di saltwater from the local aquarium store. 10 gallon water changes.

I hope this helps.
 
it does a little . by 1.22 I assume you mean 1.022 which is a little low . total alk at 300 Hmm I go by dkh and I am not sure how to translate that . Im sure someone does . but judging by PH you do have a new tank . Mine was that high when I started it The key is to take it slow research everything extensively . partof the fun in this hobby is the learning . you are also going to need to test for mag. and calcium . and I think you are using a swing arm hydrometer ? look in to getting a refractometer
 
Well welcome to the hobb byy! You are definitely in for a journey to say the least.

Looks like your getting your feet wet that's good.

That's a lot of pump for that aquarium something to think about. Are you running a closed loop or relying on power heads in the tank? Can't tell so much in the pic but how much water is the protein sitting in?

Aptasia sucks better to get rid of it early. There are numerous ways of ridding it from Manuel removal to natural methods. Quick Google search will heed plenty of ways to attack it.

Reason your corals are stretched out like that is cause they need more light.

Any specific questions feel free to post them and I'll do my best answering them.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 
I like your rock setup with the different island scape.

Are you planning to aim for LED or T5 lights?
 
Makes sense. Thank you for the feedback. I'll definitely look into a refractometer. AND yes 1.022 sorry. I thought I understood some of this stuff but I'll go back to reading and researching. Thanks again
 
@owen386 what do you mean that is a lot of pump? I will rely on 2 powerhead and the return pump. Is that too much? The protein skimmer is in about 8 - 10 inches of water.

Yeah I'm trying to get rid of aptasia the manual way now. Wanted to get a copper banded but it seems they have difficulty eating sometimes.

Interesting. I didn't know the coral were stretched. Definitely going to get a new light asap. Any recommendations? AND how can you tell they are stretched?
 
Hey W, welcome to the boards and the hobby. You are taking the right approach in doing your research and coming here. The best advice I can give you is go slow and keep it simple!

You will also get a lot of suggestions or opinions in this hobby. Ultimately it is your tank and your call to do as you see fit. I don't take any one person's advice as absolute.

That said here are my observations and things I would do if it were my tank.

~ bio balls have fallen out of favor and can be a source of nitrate in your tank (nitrate factories). I would eliminate those, you have live rock that do a better job.

~get proper test kits. ATI are cheap and do a good job. Salifert, elos and red Sea will cost you more. The ATI reef kit is a good starting point imo.

~ stated above, without a doubt look at getting a refractometer. Swing arms are notoriously innacurate. 1.022 is low. You would want 1.024 to 1.026 ideally. Don't raise it until you get a refractometer though to get better readings. If you do need to raise it, do it slow. Almost any change you make must be done slow. Stability is the key to success.

~ UV sterilizer, I have one and don't run it. They really have to be set up correctly with a very precise amount of flow running through them to work correctly. Do you have a flow meter on it? Are you trying to eliminate algae or bacteria? Each have different flow rates. Imo this is not a tool for a beginner. They also add a lot of heat and this could be an issue for you come summer.

~ lots of opinions on led, but bottom line blue and white are all that really matter. T5s are proven and easy. I like led t5 combo. If you are going led, just go more than less. Most manufacture claim 24" spread. It's more like 12 or 18". The successfull led tanks usually have more lights than recommended. I personally like Kessils and have 2 160s over my 40b frag tank, but if it was my display I would run 3 160s. You would want Kessil 360s over a deeper tank like a 75.

Best of luck and keep posting!

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
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My first purchase were I you at this point would be test kits and refractometer. I would buy quality nitrate,
Alk, cal, and maybe Po4(this will be pricy for quality as standard tritation don't read well)depending on your goals. Then cheap ammonia (the strips you have should be enough) just to make sure because your tank is new. I like salifert but the others mentioned will work. For Po4 I would only use the Hannah phosphate ulr (around 50 bucks)and do the math to convert to Po4 or the hannah HI96713(very accurate but costs over 200 bucks)

20 ppm for nitrate is a bit high for keeping sensitive corals. It might go down on its own as more denitrifying bacteria starts to colonize though I'd watch that I'd not let it get higher. Bio balls tend to help reduce ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate but from there lack the ability to produce colonies of bacteria to brake nitrate down further (nitrous oxide I believe)due to those colonies requiring an anaerobic enviroment. Bio balls tend to live in high oxygen. Those colonies will develop over time deep within the rock (your rock looks pretty new and white from the pictures).

300ppm (assuming you are giving a ppm number and dont mean 3.00meq/L)in alkalinity is about 16 on the German hardness scale known as (dkh) that is high most run between 7 and 11 dkh (125 and 200 on ppm scale) with ocean water being at the low end. Many run high at 12 to 13 but 16 is high. That said it is something that may correct on its own. If you are adding an alk supplement I would stop but I would not worry too much (at least for now).also before any changes consider having it tested elsewhere to confirm. The tests I'm aware of that show results in ppm (including the Hannah meter)tend to be less accurate then other tritation kits. If it's 3.00meq/l then it's right in target range.

1.022 in sg may be challenging for more sensitive invertebrates. Most stony corals and even your shrimp like to see it a bit higher. If you are not using a refractometer grab one (even a 40 dollar online one will be friendlier then a swing arm hydrometer).

Different lights are going to be a big must if you wish to keep small polyp stony coral. To new people in the hobby this is one place I suggest you should invest some of your setup budget. I see too many playing the upgrade game on lights. Meaning buying something that will not support future goals then buying lights again. The result is spending money 2 or 3 times because the average beginner just can't see putting down several hundred at first (but end up spending a grand or more over time). I like Aqua illumination products. A big advantage is they are modular and from the sol fixtures on up can be converted. Another advantage to being modular is ease of fixing them. If money is a consideration (I assume it is) look into used sol blues. A good price for a 3 year old light is 150 to 200(a 75 gallon wold want 2). Many will say this is not a full spectrum light but I refer them to dong zhu (who has done several studies on lighting) who has stated this to be an ideal light for the reef aquarium. I've used them successfully for almost 5 years now.

I don't know about too much pump on the return if the wier and overflow handles it it's fine. I will say the older external pumps are energy hogs (with some exceptions) sps dominate tanks use tons of flow my flow is about 88 times display gallonage. With some up over 100x. That said, some might consider that excessive. Something to consider when using the return pump for flow is those trying to grow algae in their sumps for nutrient export are limiting contact time with higher flow.

As far as aptasia a couple peppermint will keep the population to a minimum. With a 75 and a lot of aptasia I'd consider 3 shrimp and let them do their thing for a few weeks. The shrimp are usually 6 to 10 dollars. I'd probably not spend money on live stock until I got the other incidentals though I know it's not as much fun. Also consider an rodi filter as lugging water from the store equals inconvenience which equals less likely to get done (in my life anyway) when the beginning luster starts to ware off ease of chores will be a big benefit. I still look for ways to make maintenance easier.

Well that was a long post. Good luck
 
Thanks!

Thank you for the great advice. I really appreciate it. I will definitely look into changing the Bio balls to live rock. As well as get the right test kits and refractormeter.

The UV sterilizer I bought when I bought the set up. it doesnt have a flow rate, so I will turn it off until I understand more about it. Plus I think I need to change the bulb as well.

these are definitely some good options of lights to look into. Thanks for the feedback again.



Hey W, welcome to the boards and the hobby. You are taking the right approach in doing your research and coming here. The best advice I can give you is go slow and keep it simple!

You will also get a lot of suggestions or opinions in this hobby. Ultimately it is your tank and your call to do as you see fit. I don't take any one person's advice as absolute.

That said here are my observations and things I would do if it were my tank.

~ bio balls have fallen out of favor and can be a source of nitrate in your tank (nitrate factories). I would eliminate those, you have live rock that do a better job.

~get proper test kits. ATI are cheap and do a good job. Salifert, elos and red Sea will cost you more. The ATI reef kit is a good starting point imo.

~ stated above, without a doubt look at getting a refractometer. Swing arms are notoriously innacurate. 1.022 is low. You would want 1.024 to 1.026 ideally. Don't raise it until you get a refractometer though to get better readings. If you do need to raise it, do it slow. Almost any change you make must be done slow. Stability is the key to success.

~ UV sterilizer, I have one and don't run it. They really have to be set up correctly with a very precise amount of flow running through them to work correctly. Do you have a flow meter on it? Are you trying to eliminate algae or bacteria? Each have different flow rates. Imo this is not a tool for a beginner. They also add a lot of heat and this could be an issue for you come summer.

~ lots of opinions on led, but bottom line blue and white are all that really matter. T5s are proven and easy. I like led t5 combo. If you are going led, just go more than less. Most manufacture claim 24" spread. It's more like 12 or 18". The successfull led tanks usually have more lights than recommended. I personally like Kessils and have 2 160s over my 40b frag tank, but if it was my display I would run 3 160s. You would want Kessil 360s over a deeper tank like a 75.

Best of luck and keep posting!

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
I will definitely buy a new test kit. Definitely want to read it accurately because I definitely want to keep learning and growing the tank. Thanks for the feedback.

I will get rid of the bio balls and replace it with the live rock.

I will definitely look into a good light for the tank. I thought the one I had was a little weak. this information gives me something good to look into.

Yeah the flow that is coming out of the return is spread out so it isnt too much. BUt I will see how I can measure it to make sure that it isnt too much flow.

Yeah aptasia...I have been reading about shrimp. I will get a couple this weekend and see if I can return them once the aptasia is all gone.

None the less this is good stuff to look into. Thanks for the lengthy feedback.

My first purchase were I you at this point would be test kits and refractometer. I would buy quality nitrate,
Alk, cal, and maybe Po4(this will be pricy for quality as standard tritation don't read well)depending on your goals. Then cheap ammonia (the strips you have should be enough) just to make sure because your tank is new. I like salifert but the others mentioned will work. For Po4 I would only use the Hannah phosphate ulr (around 50 bucks)and do the math to convert to Po4 or the hannah HI96713(very accurate but costs over 200 bucks)

20 ppm for nitrate is a bit high for keeping sensitive corals. It might go down on its own as more denitrifying bacteria starts to colonize though I'd watch that I'd not let it get higher. Bio balls tend to help reduce ammonia to nitrite then to nitrate but from there lack the ability to produce colonies of bacteria to brake nitrate down further (nitrous oxide I believe)due to those colonies requiring an anaerobic enviroment. Bio balls tend to live in high oxygen. Those colonies will develop over time deep within the rock (your rock looks pretty new and white from the pictures).

300ppm (assuming you are giving a ppm number and dont mean 3.00meq/L)in alkalinity is about 16 on the German hardness scale known as (dkh) that is high most run between 7 and 11 dkh (125 and 200 on ppm scale) with ocean water being at the low end. Many run high at 12 to 13 but 16 is high. That said it is something that may correct on its own. If you are adding an alk supplement I would stop but I would not worry too much (at least for now).also before any changes consider having it tested elsewhere to confirm. The tests I'm aware of that show results in ppm (including the Hannah meter)tend to be less accurate then other tritation kits. If it's 3.00meq/l then it's right in target range.

1.022 in sg may be challenging for more sensitive invertebrates. Most stony corals and even your shrimp like to see it a bit higher. If you are not using a refractometer grab one (even a 40 dollar online one will be friendlier then a swing arm hydrometer).

Different lights are going to be a big must if you wish to keep small polyp stony coral. To new people in the hobby this is one place I suggest you should invest some of your setup budget. I see too many playing the upgrade game on lights. Meaning buying something that will not support future goals then buying lights again. The result is spending money 2 or 3 times because the average beginner just can't see putting down several hundred at first (but end up spending a grand or more over time). I like Aqua illumination products. A big advantage is they are modular and from the sol fixtures on up can be converted. Another advantage to being modular is ease of fixing them. If money is a consideration (I assume it is) look into used sol blues. A good price for a 3 year old light is 150 to 200(a 75 gallon wold want 2). Many will say this is not a full spectrum light but I refer them to dong zhu (who has done several studies on lighting) who has stated this to be an ideal light for the reef aquarium. I've used them successfully for almost 5 years now.

I don't know about too much pump on the return if the wier and overflow handles it it's fine. I will say the older external pumps are energy hogs (with some exceptions) sps dominate tanks use tons of flow my flow is about 88 times display gallonage. With some up over 100x. That said, some might consider that excessive. Something to consider when using the return pump for flow is those trying to grow algae in their sumps for nutrient export are limiting contact time with higher flow.

As far as aptasia a couple peppermint will keep the population to a minimum. With a 75 and a lot of aptasia I'd consider 3 shrimp and let them do their thing for a few weeks. The shrimp are usually 6 to 10 dollars. I'd probably not spend money on live stock until I got the other incidentals though I know it's not as much fun. Also consider an rodi filter as lugging water from the store equals inconvenience which equals less likely to get done (in my life anyway) when the beginning luster starts to ware off ease of chores will be a big benefit. I still look for ways to make maintenance easier.

Well that was a long post. Good luck
 
Peppermint will eat other stuff as well they are opportunistic eaters. People report them disappearing after the aptasia is gone but they are just crafty hiders. I see mine from time to time still. Usually very late at night.

I wouldn't dump all the biobalks at once. Maybe remove a few a week.
 
Pepperment shrimp work great but only a particular species! L. wurdemanni is NOT the one you want. L. bogessi are the ones that eat the aiptasia in the wild. The bogessi and wurdemanni are usually just sold as peppermint shrimp together in the stores but try to ask an associate. If they do not know, then try to differentiate them yourself as the bogessi have a darker red tail (you will look like a total badass saying you know how to tell the subspecies between shrimp!). Good luck and if you need help sorting them out post a pick before you buy and ill tell you.
 
Welcome!

If you want a recommendation for some affordable lights, I would consider these from amazon.
I had two on my 75G set up, worked out great for a variety of SPS, LPS, softies, and anemones.
Good color spectrum and there's separate dimmers for the whites and blues with seperate power cords as well.
I'd also recommend two digital timers so you can control the whites and blues, running the blues longer to simulate a sun rise and sun set effect.

http://www.amazon.com/Galaxyhydro-5...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
 
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