Nick's 345G Build

The tank is on auto pilot for quite some time now. CWC continues to work out well. All safeties are in placed. More on this later.
I did lose a couple of Euphyllias. One torch colony, one wall hammer colony, and one octospawn colony. Parameters are rock solid and I wouldn't know what to change at this point. I always have issue with these Euphyllias. However, this is an SPS tank. The LPS are secondary.
I am excited for the transition of one of my Diamond Tail Flasher Wrasse. This one has been getting large quickly and color darken up. I tried to capture a picture of it when it's flashing but after 30mins in front of the tank with the camera pointing, it didn't flash. I enjoy watching the process of a transitioning fish. Whether if it's a Juvenile tang or angelfish or female wrasse to male, it's a very rewarding process.

The female.
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Transitioning Male
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Did someone say clams?
How about
3 2” maxima. Bought them when they’re 1.5”
1 5” maxima
1 6” derasa
2 1.5” squamosa
My order of a Gigas was canceled today due to its health not good enough to ship.
I’m looking for Croceas and some more Maximas. Love clams.

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I can see what your saying, but on glass tanks I always use a razor scraper when I clean. It's a tool used for cleaning paint off window panes. I always had to be very careful not to damage the silicone when I used it. I use it now to clean all the glass tanks in the basement and I love it. My hope is that with the armored seams, I won't have that concern. I was never really worried about animals burrowing into the silicone.

+1 for razor scrapers

 
+1 for razor scrapers


Thanks Joe. I'll look into this. The coralines on the armored seams are getting on my nerves.
 
Some updates.
I actually haven’t done much with the tank. It has been on auto pilot for the last 3 weeks. Everytime I test, I feel like I just wasted my time so I haven’t been testing the water for two weeks now.
With the CWC, I don’t have to spend hours heating up the water before the water change. I clean the skimmer cup and body once every two weeks.
RODI has been set up with float sensors from GHL and electric solenoid from ElectronicWaterValve. This has save me a ton of time and headache. I often forget the water is on and flood the basement. With the float and solenoid, there hasn’t been a drop of water on the floor. This is my best accomplishment so far in my reefing career.
With the additional float sensors, I was able to
-Prevent CWC pump from running dry. Pump shuts off when fresh mixed saltwater bucket is low. Since I use a dual channel peristaltic, water drawn and water pumping into the system ceases.
-Prevent my now gigantea tank(more on this later) from overflowing if one of the giganteas decide to clog the overflow.
-Prevent my skimmer cup from overflowing. Skimmer pump shuts off when skimmer cup is full
-Prevent RODI bucket from overflowing. Solenoid turns off main water supply to RODI unit
-Prevent RODI ATO reservoir from overflowing. Solenoid turns off main water supply to RODI unit
-Prevent main tank from overflowing. Return pump shuts off when water level in the main tank fills up in an even of clogged overflow.
Any of these events will trigger the controller to send me an alert email.

A box of GHL float sensors and accessories was delivered awhile back.
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Adding the card for additional level sensors to the controller was a breeze. Remember, I bought this controller almost a decade ago. Nice to see that I can still expand its capability.
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Electronic solenoids.
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Float sensor in RODI bucket implementation
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Float sensor in CWC bucket implementation
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Float sensor in skimmer cup implementation. The main tank and anemone tank is being implemented the same way.
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GHL programing for the float sensors.
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If any of the above event is triggered, the controller will send me an alert email immediately. Below is an example when my RODI is full. See, if I didn't have this, my RODI would be overflowing for 16minutes or more by the time I get to it.
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I was notified by my friend a couple weeks ago that the green gigantea is coming back to me. It has grown too large in his tank. I always knew one day, the green gigantea would be coming back.
The purple gigantea in my main tank is also getting too large and a little out of place. And I really want to get more room for for SPS. So, there's only one thing to do. Scrap the macro algae display and turn it into gigantea tank. Macro algaes been transffered to the sump fuge(where it used to be and belong).

Gigantea tank. I'm hoping to pick up the green gigantea this weekend. For reference of size, the tank is 48"x24"x13". Picture was taking the day after it was moved. It has expanded more.
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Like I said, not much has changed. The gigantea was moved to its own tank and more sps frags were placed in from BattleCorals during the Black Friday sales event.
I did lose some hammer corals(always have issues with these) and hence the empty void on the sandbed. I will revisit this later when I think my LPS are thriving rather than surviving.
SPS frags are growing and seeing from improvement in colors. Fish are growing also. I added a Whitetail Bristle Tang that is doing spectacular with algae grazing. My favorite tang for sure.
Most important of all, rocks are now covered with coralines to make the tank looks like a reef tank rather than a santitized tank with rocks.
I will let this coast and update later.
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Nice use of all the float sensors - definitely want to expand my (also old) Profilux for a similar implementation.

For the Skimmer cup, do you manually empty it? I noticed a few posts back that it doesn’t look to be in a position to gravity drain out of your sump. I’ve got a dedicated peristaltic pump to pull skimmate out since my setup also doesn’t allow for setting up a drain. Doesn’t eliminate the need for a float switch in case of a slimmer going crazy, but could help cut down maintenance if it’s something you need to do manually right now. Combined with a slimmer neck cleaner, it’s a pretty nice system.
 
Nice use of all the float sensors - definitely want to expand my (also old) Profilux for a similar implementation.

For the Skimmer cup, do you manually empty it? I noticed a few posts back that it doesn’t look to be in a position to gravity drain out of your sump. I’ve got a dedicated peristaltic pump to pull skimmate out since my setup also doesn’t allow for setting up a drain. Doesn’t eliminate the need for a float switch in case of a slimmer going crazy, but could help cut down maintenance if it’s something you need to do manually right now. Combined with a slimmer neck cleaner, it’s a pretty nice system.
I usually have to empty the skimmer cup and clean it every two weeks. The smell is horrid if I leave it too long.
That’s a great idea. I have to think where I can drain the skimmate to. Will the skimmate cake up the line though? The skimmate around the neck area is pretty thick and chunky. Not sure how the tube will be able to pull it.
 
I usually have to empty the skimmer cup and clean it every two weeks. The smell is horrid if I leave it too long.
That’s a great idea. I have to think where I can drain the skimmate to. Will the skimmate cake up the line though? The skimmate around the neck area is pretty thick and chunky. Not sure how the tube will be able to pull it.
My skimmer cup drains into a gallon jug and I've never had a problem with the line clogging. My skimmer neck gets totally gunked up as well. I do clean the drain line every other time I empty the skimmer jug.
 
I usually have to empty the skimmer cup and clean it every two weeks. The smell is horrid if I leave it too long.
That’s a great idea. I have to think where I can drain the skimmate to. Will the skimmate cake up the line though? The skimmate around the neck area is pretty thick and chunky. Not sure how the tube will be able to pull it.
I’ve been using RO line with a short bit of silicone tubing to connect the RO line to the pump head. The extra rigidity seems to handle any solid chunks well, and I’ve never had a clog occur for the last 5-6 years I’ve been operating the system like this. I just route it into the cup through the ventilation holes of the lid, so easy removal and no modifications necessary. Combined with my Vertex skimmer neck cleaner, I can go months (if need be) between cleanings.
 
Is ElectronicWaterValve a web site? Doesn't seem to be anything at electronicwatervalve.com
Curious about these valves as well Nick.
I use these. They’re 120V so direct connect to the outlet

in hindsight, maybe I should’ve used these. They’re 12V. I can make a cable to hook directly to the back of the controller 12v which will free up two outlet on my powerbar. https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-4-12v-dc-push-connect-plastic-solenoid-valve/
 
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