RO/DI booster pump

CrypticLifeStyle

Non-member
The new house I couldn't get more then 40 PSI, if I did laundry or anything it would drop down to 25/30 PSI. Ordered the BRS booster pump kit, and I should have done this forever ago. If any of you have low pressure, this thing makes water making life so much better, so much faster. I'm sure many of you already know this, but for those that aren't this post is for you.

I went from the stated numbers above to over 100 PSI before I pulled the plug, and dialed it back to 85 PSI to prevent membrane damage. If any of you have low pressure, or are considering it get it. Making water is so much faster/efficient now.
 

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I'm actually looking into buying one as we speak... I just put a pressure gauge on my RODI and am only get 25psi with nothing else in the house on. Do you need the pressure switch on the unit? And are you supposed to keep it unplugged and only plug it in when you are making RODI water?
 
The new house I couldn't get more then 40 PSI, if I did laundry or anything it would drop down to 25/30 PSI. Ordered the BRS booster pump kit, and I should have done this forever ago. If any of you have low pressure, this thing makes water making life so much better, so much faster. I'm sure many of you already know this, but for those that aren't this post is for you.

I went from the stated numbers above to over 100 PSI before I pulled the plug, and dialed it back to 85 PSI to prevent membrane damage. If any of you have low pressure, or are considering it get it. Making water is so much faster/efficient now.

+1 to that.. BRS pump is of great quality and with very low noise
 
I'm actually looking into buying one as we speak... I just put a pressure gauge on my RODI and am only get 25psi with nothing else in the house on. Do you need the pressure switch on the unit? And are you supposed to keep it unplugged and only plug it in when you are making RODI water?
I have a booster pump for sale with auto shut off let me know if interested.
 
I'm actually looking into buying one as we speak... I just put a pressure gauge on my RODI and am only get 25psi with nothing else in the house on. Do you need the pressure switch on the unit? And are you supposed to keep it unplugged and only plug it in when you are making RODI water?

Pressure switch as in the auto flusher that comes with it? Basically the kit is the booster pump, the transformer aka power supply, and auto flush.
I'd say in theory, or as deacribed as I just got it, it's supposed to help maintain your membrane for a longer life span. I'm big in the practice of reverse flushing your ro/di once a week for 5 to 10 minutes, and if this assists in that it can be. My personal experience is pretty limited thus far, but I'd say so.

Yeah it's always on if plugged in even if the rodi isn't on. So for now til I figure out my next step I let the RO/DI run a minute, then turn on the booster pump. May add a toggle switch or something to turn it on. Discharge hose had a little shake to it due to the pressure pushing through. I had to put a piece of rubber on it so it wouldn't make a vibration noise against the wall.
 
I'm on a well too which is probably the reason behind the pressure. Trying to figure out a piping system as well to drain the discharge water outside instead of the washer drain pipe. I'm putting in a french drain system in a month or two, and may integrate it into that or a kettle pond I have in the woods behind my house on my property, but not sure what, if any environmental impact that may be. It has native killifish in it.
 
If your going thru filters fast try adding a 5 micro prefilter as it will catch large stuff and keep your 1 micron filter much cleaner. I hurd with wells other things can effect the water like dkh and so on. A good test and a few brs videos on youtube got me filtering like a pro quick. It's really not difficult
 
On my 6 stage with well water everything seems to be lasting longer except the DI resin. I'm assuming my well filter gets a lot before my RODI gets it as the 1st stage TDS only reads .2 ppm and 2nd stage TDS reads .1ppm
 
Thats strange. I dont no from exsperience but brs said that most ppl use one resin alot faster than the other. Maybe another add on can and do anion cation resins seperatly followed by a mixed cartridge to catch anything that got by. Thats what etc support said about my high resin consumption. Good luck tho took me a while to figure out my source water but it set makes a big difference once its set
 
On my 6 stage with well water everything seems to be lasting longer except the DI resin. I'm assuming my well filter gets a lot before my RODI gets it as the 1st stage TDS only reads .2 ppm and 2nd stage TDS reads .1ppm
I’ve read that people with well water sometimes need to gas off the ro water before it goes through the di resin. It’s high in co2 and eats up the di
 
So I'm moving to a well fed house soon, how would you do that? Would you just pump your ro thru the resin like it was a normal reactor?
 
I’ve read that people with well water sometimes need to gas off the ro water before it goes through the di resin. It’s high in co2 and eats up the di

High carbonic acidic water sources without a softner can do lead to co2 gas off's, but part of my well water filter system has a softner. I bet this would vary depending how old one's system is.
 
Thats strange. I dont no from exsperience but brs said that most ppl use one resin alot faster than the other. Maybe another add on can and do anion cation resins seperatly followed by a mixed cartridge to catch anything that got by. Thats what etc support said about my high resin consumption. Good luck tho took me a while to figure out my source water but it set makes a big difference once its set

In what time frame was yours depleting? I manage a year typically before i dump, and refill which is acceptable, however I'm only 5 months in at the new house which is when i replaced all stages, so while i think its depleting faster, the calendar marker hasn't come yet, so for now I'm still observing. I'm also assuming acidic water causes faster wear on the polymer resins, but, just a assumption.
 
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