Switching from 20 AIO to 20 plumbed

Collin

Non-member
hi guys I'm switching from my hang on back filter to a plumbed system. I'm new to this whole thing and could use some advice. What kind of pipe do I need? What kind of return pump should I get? What should I do for a sump? I would really appreciate any help I can get. Thanks! (Budget is something I need to keep to keep in mind in this one)
 
It's a 20 gallon long (switching to to a 20 gallon long rr) looking to put in a 10 gallon sump. I'll get more info about new tank. Any other stats you need?
 
Return you can get away with a lot of options, budget is where it gets difficult.
You’ll probably want a 5x turnover rate per hour( 5x water volume of complete system) most pumps can handle the 4 foot head pressure , just find one that crosses the turnover rate you need. Depending if it’s drilled or not , you’ll either need a overflow box or some flex pipe for the drain. Return can be any clear tubing from HD.
 
The pump might be the one thing I splurge on. (Don't want to have to be constantly replacing it) thing about the jecod DCS-2000 nano


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This isn’t cheap, but this guys 12g long setup is inspirational for sure.
EBF901B0-1F86-4613-9C68-D2A2148315C1.jpeg
 
First step, a baby one but headed in the right direction
 

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Baby steps Collin [emoji3]

Here is a question for all the veterans out there... with a 10 gallon sump.... is it worth putting in baffles? If he had the drain going to a pile of live rock, then the return on the opposite side separated and was running a skimmer... will the micro-bubbles make it across a rock wall /skimmer and make its way back to the return?

Might be easier not sure if I would be as effective. Any sump experts/micro bubble experts want to weigh in?


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It would be a lot easier if I didn't have to put in baffles [emoji23]


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I’d add at least 1 baffle to control height of ato at the return section. It’ll take a lot longer to evaporate the whole length of the tank. Also it’ll take care of some of the micro bubbles.
 
Baby steps Collin [emoji3]

Here is a question for all the veterans out there... with a 10 gallon sump.... is it worth putting in baffles? If he had the drain going to a pile of live rock, then the return on the opposite side separated and was running a skimmer... will the micro-bubbles make it across a rock wall /skimmer and make its way back to the return?

Might be easier not sure if I would be as effective. Any sump experts/micro bubble experts want to weigh in?


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I think what’s more important with the baffles, is creating one side that the water level doesn’t fluctuate and the return section that does. You want the skimmer to be in a steady water level for it to run optimally.

Here’s a great idea! Split it 50/50. Run a refugium in the drain compartment, along with your heater, and your ATO in the return compartment. Get a HOB skimmer to hang on the refugium side and save room in the sump. So you can essentially run a skimmer, fuge, and return with only 2 chamber sump.
 
Honestly, I would recommend a used one from here, or if you wanted to go new, just make sure it can run 10x your water volume. So 700-800gph. I have a hydor 700gph pump (I need a bigger one) on my 75. You will lose some gph due to the return going up to the display.

For example my 700gph probably runs about 400 or 300 gph after the head pressure.


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That pump will be a struggle and will be pushing hard to get low flow. Powerheads are necessary for increasing flow and eliminating dead spots in the display, but you want turnover through the sump as well.
A pump rated about 5-600 gph is what you need. After the head loss, you’ll be getting around 300 gph turnover, which is about 10x display and sump combined volume,
which is perfect for a Reef tank.
 
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