Chiller repair?

Ptreef

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
I've got a second hand Aach50 hydrofarm chiller which started flipping my breaker today after running fine for a year. The cord stored electricity and gave me a good shock too (capacitor problem?). Any one have similar experience? Is it possible/worth repairing chillers? Should I look for a refrigerator repair center? I'll probably take it apart this weekend and see if it's something obvious but curious what you all think the next step should be. Thanks!
 
I've got a second hand Aach50 hydrofarm chiller which started flipping my breaker today after running fine for a year. The cord stored electricity and gave me a good shock too (capacitor problem?). Any one have similar experience? Is it possible/worth repairing chillers? Should I look for a refrigerator repair center? I'll probably take it apart this weekend and see if it's something obvious but curious what you all think the next step should be. Thanks!
I'd check with someone who repairs window ac units. I've never worked on window ac or chillers myself, but central ac capacitors are very easy to replace.
 
If the breaker is tripping it's usually the compressor locking up. More likely than not the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced. Probably cheaper to replace the unit.
 
If the breaker is tripping it's usually the compressor locking up. More likely than not the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced. Probably cheaper to replace the unit.
It's flipping it as soon as I plug in the unit. Seems more like some sort of short.
 
Yeah thats a short then. I thought only when it was trying to operate. Probably a grounded board maybe? Gutta open it up and see if you can see anything obvious
 
It's flipping it as soon as I plug in the unit. Seems more like some sort of short.

Yeah thats a short then. I thought only when it was trying to operate. Probably a grounded board maybe? Gutta open it up and see if you can see anything obvious
Just got to the capacitor and it reads 0 ohms. I'll try replacing that. Hopefully it's that easy.
 
Mark Sherman at Sherman Appliance repaired my chiller a couple of years ago.
Sounds like it was a different issue than what you are experiencing.
Anyway, my chiller has to be at least 10 years old, and he worked perfectly since he worked on it.
 
Turns out I'm an idiot and I have it on a 15 amp circuit and the pull is too much with other items I've added. Rookie mistake. I'm amazed it ran as long as it did with out flipping the breaker. Time to downsize. Anyone have a 1/10 they want to trade?
 
I take it back. Still not sure what's wrong with the unit. It runs when it's the only thing on the circuit fine drawing 2.8 amps while the compressor goes. When I plug in the rest of the fish tank stuff at the same time, which pulls 1.8 amps, it flips the breaker. That said I can run my blender fine with the tank, which draws 6 amps. So it's not circuit load or the outlet. Must be the chiller but it might be be beyond my trouble shooting. Any other thoughts?
 
I take it back. Still not sure what's wrong with the unit. It runs when it's the only thing on the circuit fine drawing 2.8 amps while the compressor goes. When I plug in the rest of the fish tank stuff at the same time, which pulls 1.8 amps, it flips the breaker. That said I can run my blender fine with the tank, which draws 6 amps. So it's not circuit load or the outlet. Must be the chiller but it might be be beyond my trouble shooting. Any other thoughts?
When are you taking the amperage readings and how (what device) are you using to read it? When you plug the chiller in the compressor will start and the instantaneous amperage draw is sometimes 4-5 times running amperage draw. This is referred to as locked rotor amperage. The high instantaneous amperage demand of a starting electric motor.
 
When are you taking the amperage readings and how (what device) are you using to read it? When you plug the chiller in the compressor will start and the instantaneous amperage draw is sometimes 4-5 times running amperage draw. This is referred to as locked rotor amperage. The high instantaneous amperage demand of a starting electric motor.
I got one of those digital plug in meters which sits between the outlet and your device. When I turn it on it reads some miniscule amp while the controller turns on and it reads temperature. It's possible the amps spike when the compressor first turns on and the device loses it in the integration time but I don't think it's that. When it pops the breaker it does so immediately, before the controller even loads up...

But I think I've got a new hint. If I disconnect the water supply from the tank it turns on and runs fine. Seems like it's making a circuit with the tank somehow. Looking inside the machine I see a little salt crust. Might be something dribbled in and it's making a weak connection. Maybe cleaning the machine interior will work. Weekend project. Any thoughts appreciated though.
 
I got one of those digital plug in meters which sits between the outlet and your device. When I turn it on it reads some miniscule amp while the controller turns on and it reads temperature. It's possible the amps spike when the compressor first turns on and the device loses it in the integration time but I don't think it's that. When it pops the breaker it does so immediately, before the controller even loads up...

But I think I've got a new hint. If I disconnect the water supply from the tank it turns on and runs fine. Seems like it's making a circuit with the tank somehow. Looking inside the machine I see a little salt crust. Might be something dribbled in and it's making a weak connection. Maybe cleaning the machine interior will work. Weekend project. Any thoughts appreciated though.
Cleaning the machine didn't work. Ffffffff.
 
This won't help with a broken chiller, but I found after switching to DC pumps that don't heat the tank, and a simple PC/muffin style fan moving air across the top of my open sump the tank temp never needs chilling. The savings on my electric bill was enough to fire up a new tank!....lol
Curious if your chiller has a circulation pump. Most thoughts go to compressor problems, but if you have a pump in yours make sure it turns freely and isn't tight or "bound up" feeling.
 
This won't help with a broken chiller, but I found after switching to DC pumps that don't heat the tank, and a simple PC/muffin style fan moving air across the top of my open sump the tank temp never needs chilling. The savings on my electric bill was enough to fire up a new tank!....lol
Curious if your chiller has a circulation pump. Most thoughts go to compressor problems, but if you have a pump in yours make sure it turns freely and isn't tight or "bound up" feeling.
Yeah, I switched to DC pumps 6 months ago thinking the same thing. My tank seems to sit at about 84 without chilling though. No idea where all the heat comes from even after cleaning all pumps etc. Unfortunately no sump on this tank to try adding fans to. It's a rsm c250 but with LEDs.

No internal pump on this chiller either. All good ideas. Thanks
 
What HP rating is your chiller? Also, if you can get it to not trip by reducing load on the circuit it could be overloaded anyway, under 15 amps. A 15 amp breaker will trip before you hit 15 amps. Another idea is maybe you are o. A GFCI outlet? They are notoriously finicky and easily tripped by larger loads.
I still suspect it is a larger compressor tripping a 15 amp circuit. Ideally any refrigeration device or portable AC should always be on a minimum 20 amp circuit that is dedicated, or mostly reserved for that device.
 
What HP rating is your chiller? Also, if you can get it to not trip by reducing load on the circuit it could be overloaded anyway, under 15 amps. A 15 amp breaker will trip before you hit 15 amps. Another idea is maybe you are o. A GFCI outlet? They are notoriously finicky and easily tripped by larger loads.
I still suspect it is a larger compressor tripping a 15 amp circuit. Ideally any refrigeration device or portable AC should always be on a minimum 20 amp circuit that is dedicated, or mostly reserved for that device.
1/2 HP. Ill try running a power cord to a 20amp circuit but I'm convinced it's something else. Might be bad grounding. It runs fine in place if there is no water connection to the tank. Compressor turns on etc. I'm mainly confused because it ran the last year in place fine. No major changes, just quit mid day. Maybe be a loose wire or something.
Thanks
 
I've done it... Fortunately without electricuting myself. It looks like one of my power heads had lost contain and is spilling current into the water. Probably should have tested that regularly... The more you know.

The current was going through the tank into the chiller. With that powerhead unplugged no issues. Phew. Now I just need to replace that power head.
 
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