Does anyone run a BEAN style overflow?

JayM

Is the algae gone yet?
BRS Member
I've read dozens of pages on RC on the theory. Does anyone actually run one, especially to a basement system?

I'd love to see one in operation, and pick the brains of someone on the application of the theory, in a real life setting.

My plan is to use one on my 180, which is going to sit on hardwood floor, between my kitchen and family room....where a flood is not an option :cool:

I've got 1" bulkheads planned, and I want to use 1" spaflex down to my basement system.

Flow should be around 1200 GPH from my reeflo tarpon, and the bean should handle that standing on it's head with 1" pipe.

Anyway, if you have one, and wouldn't mind letting me have a look, please LMK.

I only want to do this once :)
 
Jay, I have one that's runnng about 8 months now.

Works good so far as I can tell-- the only small issue I have is that after restarting the system, I ocassionally have to adjust the middle valve to get my overflow levels correct again. I've got 1 inch bulkheads that slip to 1.5 inch, except for my return, which is all 1 inch for increased flow. Welcome to come by tomorrow to take a look, I should be around. I'm in Newton.
 
Jay, I have one that's runnng about 8 months now.

Works good so far as I can tell-- the only small issue I have is that after restarting the system, I ocassionally have to adjust the middle valve to get my overflow levels correct again. I've got 1 inch bulkheads that slip to 1.5 inch, except for my return, which is all 1 inch for increased flow. Welcome to come by tomorrow to take a look, I should be around. I'm in Newton.

so you run 1.5" drains? Looks like the best bet is to have the valve for the full siphon overflow down near the bottom of the drain at the sump, but the 'tuning' valve on the lower flow drain up by the tank. This should make the initial dial-in interesting :)
 
Jay,an emergency drain for you is a must.:p
So the Bean or Herbie would be ideal.

haha Bob, the BEAN is exactly why I am using 3 drains.

There is also going to be a float valve with a level shutoff for the return pump as well, once the system is finished. My plan is to keep any flooding to the basement level :)
 
When I had my DT setup I ran all 1.5" drains, which was overkill because I was only running about 300 gph through it. I had valves on the full and open channel but the only valve needed is on the full. I also had the valves close to the tank but I think you can place these anywhere accessible. You might want to place it closer to the tank though to be able to dial it in. Dialing it in is the tough part and I never had any issues with it afterwards.

One tip is to make sure everything is air tight, especially in the threaded caps. Mine weren't originally and I had a tough time with a small amount of air entering the pipes. The pipes should also end just below the water level in the sump. Mine were about 1" and didn't have any problems.

I'll see if I can dig up some pictures of my setup before I took it down.

I'm working on my next tank which will have internal and external weirs to save some space in the tank. Since I'm running such low flow, I'm going with 1" pipes.

How much is the gph after head loss Jay?
 
I have a bean style over flow on my 180 using spa flex running to a basement system. You are more than welcome to come and look.
 
so you run 1.5" drains? Looks like the best bet is to have the valve for the full siphon overflow down near the bottom of the drain at the sump, but the 'tuning' valve on the lower flow drain up by the tank. This should make the initial dial-in interesting :)

Yup, 1.5 drains.

What would the change in valves do? I can still cut one in if it makes sense. I tried not varying much from the Bean design.

Here's the setup...

IMG00091-20100821-2124.jpg
 
so you run 1.5" drains? Looks like the best bet is to have the valve for the full siphon overflow down near the bottom of the drain at the sump, but the 'tuning' valve on the lower flow drain up by the tank. This should make the initial dial-in interesting :)

Nope, you wont' be restricting the "tuning" drain at all. The bean is tuned entirely with the full siphion, the valve on the partial siphion should be left 100% open all the time. You dial it in by restricting the full siphion just enough that the water level just barely gets to the partial siphion causing a very slight trickle to go down the paritial siphion, which then keeps a steady water level in the overflow box.
 
I ordered the glass-hole nano over flow but don't know if I want to use it. I keep coming back to the bean and it seems like a good idea. I like the idea of the back up and although I have heard the glass-hole kits are verry quite, will the noise of the sump still be loud? From what I understand the bean is used to quite the water entering the sump more then anything else.
 
It doesn't quite the sump as much as the overflow--there really isn't any gurgling at all, just the sounds of the water rushing through the pipes.

To quite the splashing in the sump, I extend all the drains below the sump water level--but if you do that, you have to add an airstone to the sump, which is easy and works great.
 
Nope, you wont' be restricting the "tuning" drain at all. The bean is tuned entirely with the full siphion, the valve on the partial siphion should be left 100% open all the time. You dial it in by restricting the full siphion just enough that the water level just barely gets to the partial siphion causing a very slight trickle to go down the paritial siphion, which then keeps a steady water level in the overflow box.

Oh those photos aren't my settings--I should clarify. That was before I had it running. As John said, the partial should be fully open.
 
Hey Jay -- I do have exactly what you are looking for. 180g tank sitting on a hardwood floor, 3 one inch drains, bean overflow, using spa flex to the basement. Did you get your questions answered?
 
Back
Top