Auto-topoff questions

[NateHanson]

More design questions for my 65g tank-in-waiting.

I'm thinking about my top-off system plans. I've been dosing kalk with my topoff on my current tank, using gravity and an IV drip thumbwheel.

I was going to do the same on this tank, perhaps with a float valve, but it seems like an unecessary chore to fill the reservoir every few days, and a waste of precious space under my stand. What are your opinions of RODI-connected Kalk-reactors, and how would you design one?

What are the appropriate safety devices. Any advice on designing the Kalk reactor itself.

Thanks, Nate

 

[mikrok]

Nate...I'm going to be using a reef-relief AATOC. haven't actually plugged it in yet so I can't report. it appears to be well built and simple to operate. you set up a shutoff valve on the R/O and the line basically goes into the unit and out of the unit. there's a float switch connected to the controller unit that shuts off the feed line. my kalk reactor will be added to the line after the unit.

 

[NateHanson]

Is the float switch a mechanical valve or an electric solenoid valve (with electricity) that shuts off the RODI? My RODI has automatic shutoff (and we have the RO outlet plumbed to a faucet on our sink, so the unit operates on demand), and I was thinking about just having a float-valve shutoff in the sump controlling the Kalk-reactor.
Nate

 

[Armando]

I had bad experiences with both Tunze osmolator and Ultralife float switch. I do not recommend them.

 

[denvig]

I hav been using this unit by Reeffanatic
http://www.reeffanatic.com/products/float-switch-and-level-control/level-controller.asp
So far it's working great.

 

[JWeb]

Nate,

I have my RO/DI system connected to an auto-topoff system that I built for about 19$ (not including the pump). Here's what it does:

RO/DI system is constantly producing water. I ran a 1/4" line from the RO/DI tank to the reef tank. I used a 7-gallon bucket as the reef top-off water reservoir. The level in that bucket is regulated via a float valve I obtained from USPlastics.COM, 6$.

There are two float switches in my sump - a low-level and a high-level switch. When the low-level switch is activated (after evaporation of water from the reef tank), a latching relay is switched (obtained from DigiKey.COM, 2$). The relay activates a Maxi-Jet powerhead which pumps from the bucket to the sump. Once the high-level switch in the sump is activated (from the filling by the top-off water), the latching relay is reset. Thus, the water level in the sump is maintained between low- and high- levels.

The balance of the parts are as follows:

Project box, Radio Shack, 4$
120V duplex receptical, Home Depot, 1$
Miscellaneous hardware to fit parts (relay, duplex, wiring, etc.) in project box, Home Depot, 2$
Float switches, eBay somewhere, 4$ (bought 5 of them for 10$)

Even though it only cost 19$, it actually looks quite elegant (and works even better). I'll take some pics tomorrow if you are interested.

I worry a BIT about the float valve I got from USPlastics since it was only 6$. But, it is surprisingly well constructed and I tried to stump it in the tub (in case of leaks), and I couldn't. It holds pressure VERY well.

The other potential failure mode are the latching relay/float switch components. That is, if the high-level switch doesn't reset the relay, it will continue to pump water into the sump until it overflows. I could build redundant float switches and relay (adding several dollars to the cost) OR I could add a 555 timer to the relay circuit to limit pump time to 20 seconds or so (again, only a few dollars). I haven't decided what to do. At the end of the day, even commercial top-off systems don't seem to have much of a "backup" or "redundancy" to them... which seems to be some of the concern presented in this thread.

Jeff

 

[ScottM]

More design questions for my 65g tank-in-waiting.

I'm thinking about my top-off system plans. I've been dosing kalk with my topoff on my current tank, using gravity and an IV drip thumbwheel.

I was going to do the same on this tank, perhaps with a float valve, but it seems like an unecessary chore to fill the reservoir every few days, and a waste of precious space under my stand. What are your opinions of RODI-connected Kalk-reactors, and how would you design one?

What are the appropriate safety devices. Any advice on designing the Kalk reactor itself.

Thanks, Nate

Now HERES a DIY project.

i am currently working on this myself.
i am currently using a dosing pump. but my evap rate is so high i am going straight to my rodi tru a kalk reactor. i have a few 6" tubes and a few extra magnetic stirirs that might interest you oh and the stirirs are lab grade not the cheap crap most of the people out there are using on the comercial units

 

[NateHanson]

Yeah, DIY is the idea here Scott. I've been looking at various plans to stir a kalk reactor. Seems like a very small powerhead (which I have) on a timer to stir for a few minutes a day, would do the trick.

Are you planning to just have a float valve in the sump control the whole system, or do you have some backup system in mind. I was leaning towards just doing the float switch downstream of the kalk reactor, and adjust the RODI flow low enough that it would take a couple days to overflow the sump, if something did get stuck.

The magnetic stirrer is interesting. How much money do you have in one of those.

Nate

 

[JWeb]

Sorry Nate... didn't really read your post. I didn't realize you were looking to build a kalk reactor, thought you were just looking for an auto top-off unit.

Jeff

 

[Syris]

I use an 18g Rubbermaid bin as my RO/DI resovoir for the Kalk reactor and only fill it 1x-2x a week depending on the season. Also I add 2 cups of kalk to my reactor which gives me 3-4 weeks of use before needing to "re-charge" the reactor with more kalk.
The reactor is fed by a rio 600 turned down to a slow trickle. The pump actuates by a float switch in the sump.
Also I don't use a magnetic stirrer (not necassary IMO) I use a small ph (mj 400) on a timer.

Here is how I built my Kalk reactor and some pitfalls I encountered. BTW this reactor has been in use now for over a year with no problems.
http://www.wildbillreef.net/kalk.htm

Here is a pic of it to the left

Not the prettiest but it was my first design. I may build a second smaller version for my 45g tank.
HTH

 

[Alex]

Armando,
what was your bad experince with the Tunze.

 

[ScottM]

The magnetic stirrer is interesting. How much money do you have in one of those.

Nate

i bought 5 on ebay at 35.00 each.
i have heard alot of issues running MRs wages with powerheads and that the large particles tear them up and pump replacement is common.
i have also heard alot of complaints about the stirirs not being strong enough.
thats why i bought Heavy Duty 6" stir plate stirirs. i think the sell for over 300.00 when new.

 

[NateHanson]

The stir bar itself is 6"? or just the plate?