Baffled about Baffles

skatezen

If you pick it, Flick it!
I've tried twice to baffle my sump and both times i've failed. Can someone please give me some input on how the do it and still maintain a clean appearance. This is my sump design.

Thanks
Jeff
 
Can you elaborate on how you failed the first few times? That might help folks to suggest improvements.

In my glass sump I just get 1/8" glass panels cut, then put a bead of silicone where a baffle should go, swing the glass into place, and then run a bead along all seams and smooth it with a finger. In hard to reach places (like between baffles) I use a 3/8" tube on the end of the caulk gun to apply silicone, and use another tube to smooth the bead.

Does that help?
 
I guess how do you keep the baffles straight and keep the top baffle the "under" baffle from falling? Do you use spacers at all?
 
Tina, any glass shop will cut pieces to your specifications. Look in the phone book. I recall that there are a couple right on Rantoule in Beverly. Prices are usually around $5/baffle.

Jeff, I use masking tape to hold things in place while the silicone dries, and I use a piece of wood to hold up the "under" baffles. I don't use spacers between the baffles.

Nate
 
yup
I am drilling a tank and doing an overflow tomorrow night at rays but can swing by after. want me to come by?
If you haven't siliconed it in, id suggest using strips and making the baffles all one piece. easier and cleaner. sorry about tonight. got tied up at work.
let me know.
 
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Having faced the exact same issues a couple of months back, I think I can offer a couple of suggestions:

- the first baffle you put in place will be easy because you'll have access from both sides and you can run the silicone easily, and smooth it out with your finger
- for the other baffles here's the trick I used: run silicone where the baffle will be, and then push the baffle against it so that you get good adhesion (you'll be pushing the baffle and the silicone along the bottom and sides of the sump about 1/8 or 1/4); then, on the exposed side you'll still have access to run the silicone easily and smooth it out
- you can/should use a spacer of some kind to keep the center baffle raised... just remember not to glue the last baffle before you've remove the spacer ;) (yes, been there, done that :D )

Btw, it helps if the baffles are cut to size are are tight against the sump walls and bottom. Otherwise, use a bit of tape along the top to hold them in place.

Nuno
 
Looking at your layout more carefully, there are two things I would change slightly:

- the leftmost baffle (the one between skimmer and refugium) should be higher than the first one on the right side... because when your sump fills up due to a power outage, you don't want the stuff in the fuge to flow back into the skimmer compartment. If you have that baffle set at say 8" due to skimmer constrainst, then lower the baffles on the right hand side...

- I found that having a fourth baffle on the right hand side helps a lot with the bubbles... with only 3 baffles, the last step will be a "waterfall", which may cause some bubbles of its own... on the other hand, if the last (rightmost) baffle is raised, the water will flow under it, the bubbles will be contained behind that last baffle and no waterfall will happen

Also, if you're planning on running carbon in a bag placed between the baffles, make the spacing between two of them around 2", to be able to accomodate a bag easily (I have 1" spacing and it's very tight).

Nuno
 
Actually, let me add something else... if you're still in the planning stages for this sump, think about switching the refugium and the return compartments around... by having a split drain into the fuge (which would then flow into the return compartment over a baffle), you have better control over the flow rate inside the fuge... with the current setup, whatever flow you have in the sump will be the flow you'll have in the fuge.

Nuno
 
Nuno,
Thanks for the tips. Scott, tomorrow night probably won't work cause I'll be working, but I can always try to get out of working the night shift or I can try to get out early. I'll keep you posted. If not maybe sometime this weekend. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get the baffles and the overflow in. I however could use some assistance putting the plumbing in. I went to HD tonight to get a pipe cutter and they were out of the good "cheap" ones. Savko came in today I should have everything I need to plumb it except for a few things which I got at HD. I'm putting in the Savko order for the new black parts tonight. Need anything?
 
Nuno I really like the 4th baffle idea I think I may do that I have just enough acrylic for one more. The only thing in the fuge will be a tumbling ball of cheato so I'm not to concerned about the stuff in the fuge going into the skimmer area. The flow in the sump is only going to be about 400 GPH.
 
NateHanson said:
Tina, any glass shop will cut pieces to your specifications. Look in the phone book. I recall that there are a couple right on Rantoule in Beverly. Prices are usually around $5/baffle.

Nate


hey nate thanks i will give then a call tomorrow
tina
 
did you get the clear acrylic? make sure you have unions (screw) at the clear sections so you can clean them.
lets plan for the weekend.
 
Got the clear. I should have enough unions I got 2 x 1" True Unions, 1 x 3/4" True Unions, 2 x 1" Screw Unions, 5 x 3/4" Screw Unions
 
Sunday is looking like the next day I'll have to work on this since I'm moving friday.
 
My tank is a 75gl and I did the baffles for the refugium at 12 inches and the other baffles that separate the water that come in and to return side I did it a 2 inches of the bottom off tank and about three inches from the top.
 
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