Bean overflow questions

[mike030987]

Hi there, so I have done a lot of reading and it doesn't seem like I can find an answer to my questions.

First, I want to build a beananimal overflow on a 30 long. Would 3/4 inch bulkheads and drains be sufficient as it seems the 1 inch would be overkill.

Second, I would want to have a coast to coast overflow and would like to know the dimensions of the box needed or height location if holes that need to be drilled as well as location of the actual overflow.

Finally, I'd like to drain into a proflex sump which only has one inlet. Obviously the bean uses 3 drain lines, so I am curious if there is a way that the sump could be modified for use with the bean or should!d I go more with a standard su!p design so I can drain the lines where I want.




Any insight or info would be great. If there is any links that I missed in my search I would welcome those as well.


Thank you in advance. Mike

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[mystereef]

3/4 will be fine for your siphon but I would stick to one inch for emergency line and open line. The front to back depth should be slightly larger than your 90 deg elbows so you can fit them in. Don't cut the glass until you have the elbows in hand. As far as height mine is flush up top with the upturned elbow and about 1/4 inch clearance from the downturned elbows. Works out to slightly over 4 inches. Where to drill the holes depends on where you want your water level. Mine are drilled about 1 5/8 on center starting from under the black trim on the outside of tank. My water line clears the trim by 1 or 2mm. Space the holes no less than 1.5x their diameter. Text me if you want pics 9785000240

 

[mike030987]

If that is the thought I might as well stick with 1 inch for it all. I was hoping to save a tad on space as this is in the kitchen. But if need be 1 inch it is ha.

That's kind of what I assumed and read for the size of the overflow.

I was also thinking of drilling for a return and then using locline to go up and over the overflow with it. That would so fine with 1 inch and then downsizing the outflow to 3/4?

Any thoughts on the sump questions? .....I highly appreciate all your thoughts as this is my first bean drain never mind the fact I have been out f the hobby for almost 2 years

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[JohnK]

Bean drains are fantastic, but in a 30G an internal coast to coast is going to take up a LOT of space in the tank. Figure a 30 long is 12" wide, the internal CTC overflow will eat up at least 1/3 of that leaving you with a tank only @ 8" front to back at the surface and a big shadow under the box.

Have you considered a small internal weir, slotting the top of the back, and installing an external box on the back of the display to house the bean drains? Or instead of a true coast to coast, maybe partition off one end of the tank and build the overflow there? (lose 6" on the length of the tank, but keep the full depth (front to back))

 

[Jim Tansey]

I don't like to see a question like this go by without lending some support but keep in mind you are asking for a very long and detailed response. First 3/4 drains on a 30 should be plenty but keep in mind the drains must be sized to handle the capacity of your return pump you can find the safe capacity of various drain pipes on Reef Central or other places. I'm having a custom tank built now and the overflow is located 1 inch down from the top with 1 inch deep grooves, this was arrived at because its about the same as my existing tank and I like the water level I get with about the same flow as the new tank. As far as hole placement you should not locate a hole any closer than about an inch from a glass edge and I like more. If you put 90 degree elbows inside the overflow box and don't glue them to the bulkhead you can make height adjustments by rotating them. The height of most overflow boxes in that size run 6 or 8 inches but do a design drawing to see how it all fits. There are several variables to consider in the design process and you won't find a ready solution for your 30 so just keep digging one step at a time.

Jim

Just saw John's post as I was responding, I guess I tried to answer some of your questions, but he makes some excellent points to consider.

 

[mike030987]

John - I thought about using the external box but that seems as if it'd be too much....well just too much everything in building and designing. As for the end of the tank I'd rather not just as it would have plumbing In an area I'd rather not due to the location of the tank.

I did think about just maybe using only half the back of the tank and partitioning the c2c (making it only 15 inches and not a true c2c) which would allow for more tank space.

Jim - so 3/4 would work all around? (I wouldn't need much flow as I have an mp10 maybe mp40 for flow inside)

I obviously wanted input on it all before I went and did any type of drawings and configurations as I didn't wanna waste my time with it if I wouldnt be using it ha.

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[mystereef]

Mine is 24 inches centered on a 75g so not a true coast to coast. Not really a big deal at all not to go full length. You could do yours only a third of the tank if real estate is a concern. And I think 3/4 would be fine actually considering it's only 30 gallons. So with smaller 3/4 elbows you could reduce the depth a bit.

 

[mike030987]

I was hoping to keep the footprint of the overflow as small as I could just due to the fact the tank is so small. I'm kind of just building this on a whim haha . I could also leave the drilled hole for the return on the outside of the overflow which would be able to reduce the entire size of the box a good amount I would assume.

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[mystereef]

That's what I did. I have a lock line spray bar to the far right on the outside of the overflow. If you go up and over you'd see it sticking out the top of the tank

 

[Docstach]

I was hoping to keep the footprint of the overflow as small as I could just due to the fact the tank is so small. I'm kind of just building this on a whim haha . I could also leave the drilled hole for the return on the outside of the overflow which would be able to reduce the entire size of the box a good amount I would assume.

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Unconventional and it gets a bit tricky but you can get away with using no internal elbows if you stagger the height of the three drain holes. This will make an overflow box a bit taller but narrower. A bit more difficult to run perfectly silent, but with tuning you can get it. In a kitchen maybe silence isn't completely needed?

 

[mike030987]

Myster- I probable won't go up and over as I don't want to see it.

Doc- I think I'd rather have elbows as this will be my first bean build and I wanna make sure I do things easy/well/correct haha.

Another question. Do the holes get drill all the same height or are they different? I have read both.

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[mystereef]

It doesn't matter. Maybe if you do the siphon line slightly lower it would level out faster. Mine has the open line slightly lower and it takes a while for it to level down in the overflow. If I was you I would set everything up and test it out before siliconing the outer seems on the box. Small variations in your stand and the floor will make a big difference in how the water spills over. If you're even slightly off level the water will only spill over 1 side.

 

[mike030987]

Yah. You know I never even thought about the level part. I mean obviously I planned to level it but never thought of the way it would work its way over the overflow. I'll have to make sure its perfectly level when I so set it all up.

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