Finally finished my stand
- Thread starter dedfish
- Start date
NateHanson
Non-member
cool. 
OP
OP
dedfish
That's Mr.Murphy to you!
Ok...that didn't work out as planned. The stand is no topless and trimless. At least I can tell now that it is definetely the 2x4 that is out of whack.
Ok..so my question is now that there is now top and no trim what is the best way to remove the bow in the 2x4? Sanding it? Should I rent a planer from HD? Use a hand powered planer?
At least I can tell now that it is definetely the 2x4 that is out of whack. Ok..so my question is now that there is now top and no trim what is the best way to remove the bow in the 2x4? Sanding it? Should I rent a planer from HD? Use a hand powered planer?
NateHanson
Non-member
The best way is an old-fashioned hand plane.
Short of that, maybe a powerplaner, but that may go as poorly as the beltsander.
How about shimming the plywood to get a flat base?
Short of that, maybe a powerplaner, but that may go as poorly as the beltsander.
How about shimming the plywood to get a flat base?
delta
Impatient Reefer
your problem is you have no point of reference
make a guide(L-bracket) and mount it around the perimeter of the stand take a router place on top of the guide and set the depth of the bit to the lowest point of the stand top now just use the router to level(flaten) the stand top. you coulc have done this with the trim and ply on by just making a small 1" channel around the top of the stand only part that needs to be absolutely level
to do the cross section if any you can use a U-bracket that the router can sit in to keep the right hieght, then lay it from side to side on the perimeter
guide
the bracket can be made of funiture grade ply with a good quality table saw
some glue and screws once you use them save for the next project
make a guide(L-bracket) and mount it around the perimeter of the stand take a router place on top of the guide and set the depth of the bit to the lowest point of the stand top now just use the router to level(flaten) the stand top. you coulc have done this with the trim and ply on by just making a small 1" channel around the top of the stand only part that needs to be absolutely level
to do the cross section if any you can use a U-bracket that the router can sit in to keep the right hieght, then lay it from side to side on the perimeter
guide
the bracket can be made of funiture grade ply with a good quality table saw
some glue and screws once you use them save for the next project
Last edited:
NateHanson
Non-member
Unfortunately a table saw really won't straighten lumber. No matter how good. Neither will a planer. To make square, flat furniture you need a jointer big enough to face- and edge-joint all lumber before you cut it to width or plane it to thickness.
If you don't start with flat, square stock, you won't end up with a flat square product, no matter how straight and square your joinery is.
The alternative is to flatten stock with a hand-plane. That works just as well, is only moderately more time-consuming, but requires a decent bench, truly sharp hand tools, a good long straight-edge, and maybe some simple hand-tool skills.
Sorry that you're having such a painful time with this. Let me know if I can help.
Nate
If you don't start with flat, square stock, you won't end up with a flat square product, no matter how straight and square your joinery is.
The alternative is to flatten stock with a hand-plane. That works just as well, is only moderately more time-consuming, but requires a decent bench, truly sharp hand tools, a good long straight-edge, and maybe some simple hand-tool skills.
Sorry that you're having such a painful time with this. Let me know if I can help.
Nate
OP
OP
dedfish
That's Mr.Murphy to you!
No more painfull than anything else I do. I live in an apartment and don't have a good bench or anything resembling a workshop. I do however have a room that used to be an office that is filled with the few tools I have and often looks like an earthquake just hit it with all the stuff that is usually on the floor. This room is like 8x10 with carpet and doesn't really make for the best working environment. But I try anyways and make do with what I have. Someday I will have a nice workshop where I know things like the floor and any benches I have in it are level, that will help. Until then I quess I will build crooked furniture.
The router idea intrigues me. I'm wondering if I could use some alluminum L stock from HD to make a guide to route off the crown in the 2x4.
I live in an apartment and don't have a good bench or anything resembling a workshop. I do however have a room that used to be an office that is filled with the few tools I have and often looks like an earthquake just hit it with all the stuff that is usually on the floor. This room is like 8x10 with carpet and doesn't really make for the best working environment. But I try anyways and make do with what I have. Someday I will have a nice workshop where I know things like the floor and any benches I have in it are level, that will help. Until then I quess I will build crooked furniture. The router idea intrigues me. I'm wondering if I could use some alluminum L stock from HD to make a guide to route off the crown in the 2x4.
NateHanson
Non-member
The easiest way to straighten stock with a router is to clamp a straightedge to it, and use the straightedge as a fence or guide for the router.
Greg's idea is a good one, but it'll only work if you can build a flat frame. And that doesn't seem like a likely possibility (with all due respect).
Greg's idea is a good one, but it'll only work if you can build a flat frame. And that doesn't seem like a likely possibility (with all due respect).
NateHanson
Non-member
Try putting the tank on the frame before you put the top on. That way you'll be able to get it close before you reassemble the whole thing.
NateHanson
Non-member
Glad you got things fixed up so quickly.
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