Intro from the South Shore

habs24

Puckin' Canadian
Hi Everyone on BRS
I started a year ago with a simple 30 gal nano reef tank. I've made a lot of mistakes along the way - but have learned a lot too.

I've picked up a few books - one in particular which seemed to provide decent up to date information about building a reef tank correctly (big or small) is named: The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide (Paperback) by Michael Paletta.

http://www.amazon.com/New-Marine-Aq...=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1255129456&sr=8-7

After a bit of research, I wanted to get the book named [The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists] - but the price difference leaned me toward the first one ($20).

I'd like to get the other one also but after I digest this first one only (for the money)
I'm very new to all of this, but i feel i'm picking things up pretty quick. It has been a year now - and most of what I've learned is from sites like this - and cold unforgiving experience. Forgive me if i'm using terms incorrectly - or don't use the short hand whenever possible.

My tank is made up of a few beginner fish: Blue Damsel, Bi-Color Pseudochromis, Ocellaris Clown, and three-striped Damsel.

I have about a half of the Live Rock that I would like to have. (15-20lbs?) I have a bunch of cleanup critters, Cerith Snails, some small Red Leg Hermit Crabs, and one larger Halloween crab.

I have one coral (I think it is a finger leather coral) and two small frags of zoas with about 5-10 polyps each (small). The finger leather coral is nice! It is about the size of a baseball (somewhat small?). I hope it grows well! I just got this about a week ago. When i bought it - it appeared all smooth, or so i thought i was. Now that it has settled i see dozens of small bumps - are these the polyps? (i told you i'd need forgiving). :confused: Is my coral happy - in general his hands, or fingers are extended, and it is lively looking and not unhealthy looking at all - but this is my first coral.

Anyone reading may want to know the setup i have:
30 gal bowfront
15 lbs live rock
4 fish (small)
10-15 cleanup crew size
Water
- salinity of 1.025 - 1.026
- PH 8.2
- Amonia 0ppm
- Nitrite 0ppm
- Nitrate 30ppm (20 - 40 based on length of water change interv.)
Hang on Back Filter (Petco special made for a 30 gal)
- swap or clean the blue/charcoal filter ever few weeks (rinsed - or changed every few months)
- Rinse the bio wheel that it has

Algae is not a problem in the tank. There is a minute amount here and there on the rocks but the cleanup crew seem to keep it down.

3 gallon water change every week

1 powerhead which displaces 250gpd.

Deep bed of crushed coral is my substrate.

I have a little petco test kit for testing the levels of PH, Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate. I have a hydrometer for the salinity. I do add Kent's Iodine and Liquid Calcium - until recently i also used Kent's Strontium. I read however, that one should not add too much to the tank without a specific test kit for it. What would be a good test kit to buy without breaking the bank?

Brings me to my nitrate question - i read everywhere that 0 nitrates is ideal.. i realize 0ppm is great - it means there's not a stich of toxicity in the water. And, to say that 0 is ideal, is to say that there is no quality of Nitrate that would be beneficial to anything you want to live in the tank.
What I have not read is what one should expect - should I expect that my water is 20-30ppm or so and that's the best I can do - or should I expect that with a skimmer, that number could reduce a little. Also - what is the option for a sump in a 30 gal?

To put all of this in context, my goal is not necessarily to build a world-renown reef in a 30 gal tank. It is of course, to go bigger, way bigger. My goal has been to use this setup to learn from experience and eventually when i'm ready build from the groun up - a system (125 is what i am thinking in general) but in the end, it really will be the biggest I think i can pull off successfully and without going bankrupt (i've seen the threads about the hundreds of gallons tanks, and they are awesome - i'd love to have the spot for one) but i don't. So i'm thinking something very large (for me).

But my goal is to be over-prepared for it. I would hate to invest time and money in something i'm not prepared for, and then have to call it a failure. I realize it's a long journey - and i've taken a year to simply get the hang of getting my water to the point that it's at (consistently).

my name is Rob, and i'm glad to be on the forums. Take care and thank you for all the help!

- What is the best way to install a new coral onto your own live rock, since many come as frags (built on a fragment of rock) and many come on small rocks themselves.
- I would like to get a skimmer - is it a smart move to buy the skimmer that i'll one day need (for a larger tank) or is it best to buy one built for this size tank?
- How long does it take for frags to get going - is it better for a beginner to buy frags, or whole corals.
- I paid about $45 for my largest coral (baseball sized) and $14 for the two small frags at a local shop (quincy). Is this a good deal? Not sure it is - but since the whole brick-and-mortar store is right in front of you and a swing on the way home from work, this seems the easier way to go than buying online.
- For a beginner, is buying frags a good way to go - (beyond the financial ability to buy more for less)?
- How often do frags just die and not really make it?

Sorry a lot of questions - I don't expect answers, but rather, i'm simply putting down my ideas, and concerns in one place. As I continue my search. Feel free to answer, and thank you very much if you happen to drop your opinion in :)
 
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My one question would be is Are you using an RO unit to make your water, if not what are you using.

Sounds like you have done a good bit of homework & have a good grasp of slow & steady wins the race which is all to true in this hobby.
 
one bit of avise.... get rid of the bio wheel when you decide you can afford to get an overflow box and a sump and make a refugium when you swap the bio wheel you risk runing a cycle again because you take benificial bacteria out of the tank
 
I was using tap water, with a water conditioner (Aqueon sp.?) - until recently 1 month ago when I decided that I'd buy a 5 gallon water drum from the grocery store ($5 bottle dep.) and continuously keep that bottle full of 'ready to go' water.

My plan is to exchange 2.5 gallons or so every week (half the bottle). That means I will have an empty 5gal bottle every two weeks. At the end of the two weeks, I need to return the bottle, and get a new one. With the new one, I add ocean-saltwater salt (2.5 cups) mix - and let sit until the next water change. In the 5gal bottle - I also add the aforementioned Kents' products. I like to have the water sitting for a day or two before the water change.
I only realized about a month ago that RO/DI water is nearly essential (over tap). Until I get a unit installed, I will keep doing the 5 gallon water bottles since they are the closest thing I can get to RO water right now.
 
It is possible the bottles you are getting are RO water. Check the dispenser where they come from, it should tell you. May also be spring water though. The nitrate levels you have are probably a result of the Bio-Wheel filter doing its job. They harbor aerobic bacterias which will act as a nitrate factory. Good at eliminating ammonia and nitrite but result in high nitrates. Ditch the bio wheel and you can still use the power filter to intermittently run chemical media of your choosing.
I should mention that you should add some more rock,cause after ditching the wheel the rock will be your main source of biological filtration. Relying on live rock and a sandbed for your bio filter will not result in unwanted nitrates as they will harbor anaerobic bacteria which will go a step further than the wheel.
Also a skimmer will make a big difference as well as it will remove a lot of organics before they break down in the tank. Wont really reduce the nitrate levels you have but will help to not allow nitrates to build up in the future. Also be aggresive with your water changes to get the nitrates as low as possible. Dont overfeed as well.
And a word of caution about the cute little damsel fish, BEWARE!! They are evil. Especially the striped. They will make it very difficult to introduce any other docile fish in the future, although they may be ok with your current stocking list(bicolor or royal dottybacks are feisty also).
And have a lot of patience and good luck!! Before you know it you will have multiple tanks and things will keep getting easier.
 
Quick update.
I removed the HOB filter. No more bio-media of any sort.
I added an 600 gallon per hour siphon overflow box, which now drains to a brand new 5 gallon sump/fuge stocked with a good amount of live rock. This fuge/sump/skimmer tank sits in a cabinet under the DT.
The sump/fuge also includes a skimmer (cprusa.com filter model 192).
I removed my crushed coral bed, and have added a 2 inch sugar sized sand bed of aragonite (carib-sea).
I purchased a refractometer (love it!)
I purchased a pinpoint pH monitor (amazing!)
I'm testing for calcium (~460)
I'm testing for KH (dkh of ~11)
I've found a new home for my 3Stripe and Blue damsel (will be moving to a hull member).
I had my halloween crab die (I think he got stuck in rocks, but im not sure). He was a long time member of the tank, and made it through thick and thin - i'm not sure why he died....
I've added 20lbs more live rock.
I'm topping off my water with a light blend of Kalkwasser (pickling lime) and RO water. (1/2 gallon jugs - 1/2 teaspoon of pickling lime - let settle and drip overnight). I try to drip 24 hours - slowing it to match the evaporation. I have a DYI drip mechanism built on two 1/2 gallon jugs.

Nitrates are not to zero yet, but doing better at ~20ppm
Sg. is good at 1.026
dkh 11.1
nitrite 0
ammonia. 0
pH swings from 8.0 to 8.15 (with day/night).

My Skimmer produces some good skimmate every day.

Feeding
I started feeding a mix of brine shrimp and mysis shrimp (sp?). I put a cube into a small plastic container - add small amount of tank water, i let it sit, and thaw. I then rinse it, and drain the water. Using a net I catch just shrimp out of the water. I then add more tank water, and split the shrimp into 4 parts (per full cube). each part is equivalent to 1/4 cube of shrimp. I then refreeze these cubes. I use 1 of my new cubes per day for feeding (some in the morning and some at night). I feed a LOT less than i used to. I used to drop a WHOLE cube every day for 4 fish! Now they share about 1/4 cube every day. I switch between these two foods (brine/mysis).

I've added a dozen frags to my tank, everyone is happy so far after a few weeks.

Stocking changes/short term plan:
After finding a new home for the more aggressive 3-stripe and blue damsel, I plan to pickup another clown to make them a mated pair. Add (some yet to be determined) species of anemone. Perhaps add two blue-green reef chromis (maybe)? and/or maybe a firefish. I would like to get a coral banded shrimp also. And get another halloween crab or similar.
I have to check to see if these are all reef compatible, and wouldn't overstock my tank.

As always - feel free to let me know if you think i'm doing something wrong (or not doing something right!) :)

Thanks to this board for your experiences.
Rob
 
My one question would be is Are you using an RO unit to make your water, if not what are you using.

Quick update:
I'm using Poland Springs water for my top off water (daily evaporation replacement). I add buffering to it to bring it around ph of 8.3

Last night i did a water test across the board.

Nitrates at 'undetectable' (or 0-zero on the kit test) for the first time ever. I know it's not critical that it be zero, but so great to know it can be done with consistent water changes, and replenishment with good water.

Nitrate: 0ppm (undetectable via kit)
Nitrite: 0ppm (undetectable via kit)
Ammonia: 0ppm (undetectable via kit)
PH: 8.1
Sg. 1.025
Temp: 80-81 deg.
dkh 9
KH 161ppm
Ca. 340ppm
Phosphates: 0ppm (undetectable via kit)

Changes recently in the tank.

No new fish/invert stock.
The 3-stripe Damsel and Blue Damsel that I had have been donated. Had to bring them to Lovely Pets in Quincy (they accepted them to be sold).

A small 3-4 leaf piece of Caulerpa has grown to a patch of leaves about the size of a Softball - longer feathers are in the 8-9 inch size. Literally growing like a weed!

4-5 baby featherdusters that I got have multiplied by about 2 or 3. They have attached nicely to rockwork (I happen to like these guys). There are baby versions spawning. Good growth too on the originals - they are quite sizeable for 'baby' featherdusters.

Fingerleather Coral seems to LOVE the new higher quality water that has become the norm in the tank. The polyp extension is crazy! The polyps look as though they themselves have polyps! I didn't know how far out they could come. Good growth too - not fast but larger in the past few months.

Green Star Polyps Clavularia virdis (Purple Mat with green grassy polyps) This has really taken hold on the rockwork. It really took the shape, and the base has 'glued' itself really well. The polyps are super extended.

Hairy Mushroom Rhodactis indosinensis (single soft hairy polyp) this has doubled in size. From the size of about a 25c Quarter - to about the diameter of a golfball now.

Green Hammer Coral Euphyllia ancora (3 heads on this guy) Very happy looking -long extensions full and growing.

Montipora digitata - grows up in the direction of the light - nice extended polyps - held closer to the top of the water column - small frag is growing. Tips are whitish - wonder if that's part of the growth process...

Neon Green Candy Cane Caulastrea spp. (The green trumpet shaped one) These guys close up during the day open a little at night- I haven't fed them directly yet - not sure if they really need it. They don't seem that happy - they are very low in the water column - i'm thinking of putting them higher.

A small colony (10 heads?) of Green Zoas that I got a long time ago - back in the crappy high nitrate and crushed coral days - has since really taken life again. It got really ugly and deteriorated. Another colony that i had earlier just died off entirely. This frag has gone from really bad looking to very colorful, and open, and extended. I wonder how long it takes fro these to spread and procreate?

Orange/red acan 1 head with maybe a 2nd head growing off it... this guy seems pretty happy too.

Neon Green hammer coral - this guy doesn't extend very far - it seems like it used to inflate a lot and be pretty large -now it seems alittle less so. It is very high in the water column - the head is about the size of a golfball... one positive note though - is that about 6 babies are growing at its base... i assume this is good sign. Any ideas on why the main head seems deflated a bit more than it used to... (i don't mean totally deflated, just not as big and bulky as it used to be). Maybe the water flow is too low in this area. ? or too high? or too close to the light?


I changed the light cycle to about a 10 hours a day. It was at 13-14 for a little while and I grew some cyanobacteria (red algae). It was dark red, slimy, and thick... this was only on the sand at the bottom in areas full of light. The light cycle was reduced. I removed 70% of it during a siphon (water change) and the remaining parts of it have disapeared now.

New life:
An outbreak of Stomatella Snail babies. Evidently they came from a set of about 3-4 larger snails... some are the brown/beige color (pale) and at least 1 that i've seen (larger) was black in color. I've noticed recently dozens of small babies of these Stomatella Snails all over the tank glass. The larger ones come right out when the lights go out. There's so many that i fear cleaning the main tank front glass and killing them. The sizes range all the way from so small you can barely see it (pin head?) to the full adult size of about 1 inch. Almost everything in between.

I also see more tiny bugs on my live rock. Too small to really barely see... they are almost colorless (maybe even translucent like a see-through type color). They look like tiny shrimp - but i don't know what they are.

Crushed coral is gone and the sand is in! Aragonite. Sand has settled nicely, and looks like the rock has really helped turn the sand live.
 
Thanks a lot- this forum has been amazing. It has been about 2 years since I got my tank going - and it took that long to learn many great lessons (the hard way).
 
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