brown diatoms and nitrates?

gobie1313

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
I am experiencing a brown diatom bloom for quite awhile, will this speed of production of nitrates? I do a water change and bring down the nitrtaes to
5. 2 days later it's almost 20. My protein skimmer is working fine. Doesnt this seem a liitle too soon for the reading to go up??? My amonia and nitrites are 0. I did add some new LV recently, but wouldnt i show some nitrites if that was causing the nitrate level to increase that quickly?
 
New LR will do it.
If your beni-bacteria level is high enough to export rotten stuff on the LR to nitrates,you wont see any nitrite/ammonia spike.
Diatoms are mostly caused by silicates in your top off water.
Usually the diatoms will use up the available silcates and die back in a new tank.It's all part of the tanks maturing cycle.
 
Doesnt an increase in nitrates cause the diatom to bloom more?Just continue
water change to keep nitrates down?? how often a water change and what percent?
 
I would think once the LR cures some the nitrates will diminish.
What size tank are we talking here?
What do you have for a substrate and how long has it been set up?
Diatoms blooms almost always happen in new tanks.And it always gets worse before it gets better.
Just test the nitrates ever few days and see where it's going.If it gets too high(this depends on what you have in the tank).Then you would change out 20-30%.If things equall out you shouldn't have to chase nitrates around with water changes too often.Most do a water change of at least 20% every other week or monthly,this really depends on if you have SPS corals.
 
Now if you have a cyanobacteria bloom,that's different.
And excess nutrients mostly due to over feeding or a skimmer that can't keep up with the bioload is usually to blame.
 
New LR will do it.
If your beni-bacteria level is high enough to export rotten stuff on the LR to nitrates,you wont see any nitrite/ammonia spike.
Diatoms are mostly caused by silicates in your top off water.
Usually the diatoms will use up the available silcates and die back in a new tank.It's all part of the tanks maturing cycle.


Yea, what Bob said. Diatoms are fed by silicate. It's very normal to see diatom blooms come, then go as the tank settles in.
 
I agree with everything said so far. You might want to back off on the feeding and skim wet for awhile too.
 
How do you tell the difference between diatom and cyanobactaria???Do diatoms consume nitrate? Everyday it gets a massive bloom. I did a 20% water change last night and today when i got home everything was covered in brown. My diamond gobie suddenly died too. (eating too much diatom??)
nitrates are at 10 nitrite 0 ph 8.1 ca 440. ev180 seems to be producing plenty of bubbling.
 
It's pretty easy to tell diatoms from other algae. let a little film grow on the glass, then clean it off. If it blows away in the current like a fine powder, it's diatoms. If it wipes off like slime or stringy stuff, it's not diatoms. Diatoms will readily grow on the glass.

Cyano usually won't really grow on the glass and does seem to to through big daily bloom cycles with the lights. Cyano will look kind of velvety, sometimes with bubbles trapped in it, often rising up pulling the cyano up. If you siphion it out cyano will often come up in mats.

I don't think cyano or diatoms are toxic to anything eating them.
HTH
 
sounds like cyno on the sand, because its way when you vacum it up.
But on the rocks it just blows off. There are sometimes bubbles in the algae.
Could i have both at the same time?? Do you treat for cyno??
Sounds like i have both, algae with bubbles, matted on the sand, blow off of rocks easily, back wall of glass is covered with brown algae.
 
It's quite common to see both at the same time.

You won't release nitrate from vaccuming up either. The cyano is feeding on nitrate and phosphate, vaccuming it out will actually remove some.

Best bets for fighting cyano are maintaining good flow, heavy skimming, and being careful of nutrient import (not overfeeding, good make up water...). Running GFO will also help (see below).

For the diatoms, it's all about silicate. As was mentioned before, the silicate gets bound up or otherwise unavialable after a while. GFO (granular ferric oxide, aka phosban, rowphos and several other brand names) will pull out some silicate along with phosphate of you want to speed things up. Also, FWIW, depending on what your using for make up water, water changes can actually feed the diatoms by importing additional silicate.
 
Wow, o.k.. If i'm using r/o water am i feeding the diatoms. I have to do several water changes a week, because my nitrates rise, because i added
some LV(was supposed to have een fully cured) but i suspect it wasnt do to the increase of nitrates. What do you recommend i do, with these different scenarios happening.
 
IME when I've let the DI cartridge on my RO system get old I've seen diatom blooms. Not sure this is fact, but I believe I have seen it numerous times. I'll guess that a little silicate may be able to pass through the membrane, but that's just a guess.

In general though, good RODI should have little to no silicate.

Even pretty well cured LR may still have some die off so that's no big concern IMO.

This tank is pretty new, right? I'd give it some time to settle in. If the nitrate keeps rising, it's coming from somewhere.
 
Thanks jimmy for all your help. The LFS tested my water and said my solids were a little high, so i ordered a new DI. (seems like you might be dead on. What do you do to treat cyno??
The tank is about 6 months old but i had a major crash, so lets call 3 months old.
 
Thanks jimmy for all your help. The LFS tested my water and said my solids were a little high, so i ordered a new DI. (seems like you might be dead on. What do you do to treat cyno??
The tank is about 6 months old but i had a major crash, so lets call 3 months old.


Happy to help (or at least try :) )

From an earlier post;
"Best bets for fighting cyano are maintaining good flow, heavy skimming, and being careful of nutrient import (not overfeeding, good make up water...). Running GFO will also help (see below)."

Fighting cyano is much like most other nusiance algaes (with the exception of diatoms and dinoflagellates, IIRC neither of which is actually an algae). The good thing about cyano is that it also often kind of cycles through and you see less and less of it over time, though most reef tanks have at least a little somewhere.

Limit nutrients and starve it out. Nitrate and phosphate are the key limiting nutrients. Conventional reefing wisdom will point you to phosphate as the easiest/best limiting factor, though there was a reccent thread here about doing it the other way around and focusing on nitrate. The simple summary is phosphate needs to be really low in a reef or your corals suffer, so you might as well just deal with that.

Traditionally phosphate was quite a challenge to deal with in a reef because the only available way to remove it other than water changes and skimming (to remove waste before it gets broken down into phosphate and other bad things) was to use aluminum based removers which could/did have some nasty side effects. Several yrs ago someone figured out that GFO was usable and effective, now many / most reefers are running it to keep phosphate in check. See this link for a brand of GFO and a link to an affordable reactor to run it in;
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_searchItem.aspx?IdCategory=&SearchText=phosban&parsed=1

*BTW, I have seen that reactor and the media at basically the same prices locally, you don't need to order it.


Other than GFO, of course heavy skimming is great for pulling waste out before it breaks down. If you have a good skimmer, clean it often and keep it tuned. If you don't have a good skimmer, well, that's one of the most critical investments in a reef IMO. (Good news, lots of good quality skimmers come and go in the for sale forums here for good prices).

Also, increasing water flow is often reccomended for battling cyano. IMO that doesn't deal with the primary problem of excess nutrients, but it seems to annoy the cyano so it doesn't thrive (though I worry that this approach will then lead to more difficult nusaince algaes taking over, but that's just a hunch).

Hang in there, cyano is annoying and ugly, but relatively harmless most of the time. We've all had it and most of us always will have a little.

jk
 
I replaced the DI in my r/o. I test o now for solids. The problem is i still have a total dusting of diatoms. All my parameters and water quality are fine except for the blanket of brown. Does anyone have any suggetions at all?
Does this really lasts for months? Alot of people dont remember it lasting that long.
 
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