Did I need to replace my RODI cartridges?!

higorc

Call me IGOR :)
This is just the Sediment (1 year of use) cartridge! :: Not sure if you can tell the new one from the old one :p. Hopefully this will help me fight my Cyano and Bryopsis issue.




How often do you replace yours? Does it make sense to replace the Sediment cartridge more often than the Carbon ones since it is first in-line?

Higor
 
I replace my sediment about every 3 months. In that time I go through about 350 gallons. It usually starts turning light brown at that point and that's when I know to change it. It's very important to change the sediment blocks earlier than later. Sediment blocks are cheap, the carbon and DI's are expensive. If a sediment block is exhausted that means the carbon and DI's have to work much harder and get exhausted much much faster. When I worked at an LFS I use to see it all the time, people (I did it a few times to lol) would leave the sediment in to long and the carbon and DI's would be shot and they had to replace everything but the membrane. It all depends on your tap water too, if your tap water is very dirty it will exhaust the sediment blocks much faster vs cleaner source water. Check your TDS and see what your water is coming out at, if it's elevated after you have changed your sediment then there is a good chance you might have to change the carbon and DI. If you have a spectrapure rodi system then they have a sensor that comes with it that you can press and it will tell you if the DI's are still good. Seeing how dirty your sediment block is IMO you need to change it a little earlier than that :). If you are battling bryopsis and hair algae then extra nutrients are getting into the tank and it could very well be your rodi water. Just to be safe I would say change all the cartridges except the membrane and that should help the bryopsis and hair algae if you don't have any other water chemistry issues. I'm sure you know already but raising magnesium to about 1450 helps fight bryopsis.
 
I replace my sediment about every 3 months. In that time I go through about 350 gallons. It usually starts turning light brown at that point and that's when I know to change it. It's very important to change the sediment blocks earlier than later. Sediment blocks are cheap, the carbon and DI's are expensive. If a sediment block is exhausted that means the carbon and DI's have to work much harder and get exhausted much much faster. When I worked at an LFS I use to see it all the time, people (I did it a few times to lol) would leave the sediment in to long and the carbon and DI's would be shot and they had to replace everything but the membrane. It all depends on your tap water too, if your tap water is very dirty it will exhaust the sediment blocks much faster vs cleaner source water. Check your TDS and see what your water is coming out at, if it's elevated after you have changed your sediment then there is a good chance you might have to change the carbon and DI. If you have a spectrapure rodi system then they have a sensor that comes with it that you can press and it will tell you if the DI's are still good. Seeing how dirty your sediment block is IMO you need to change it a little earlier than that :). If you are battling bryopsis and hair algae then extra nutrients are getting into the tank and it could very well be your rodi water. Just to be safe I would say change all the cartridges except the membrane and that should help the bryopsis and hair algae if you don't have any other water chemistry issues. I'm sure you know already but raising magnesium to about 1450 helps fight bryopsis.

Thanks for the input.


My sediment filter will look like that after just 30 days. Yes my town water is that bad.


WOW!!! So I suppose u change it often? How do you decide it's time to change it? By the color? TDS reading? Or PSI output?
 
PSI is how I know. The TDS wont really creep up because of the sediment filter because the water is still being cleaned by the membrane and DI resin if you are using DI resin.
 
Higoric,

Usually PSI drops 5-10 units and that usually means sediment needs to be changed. Go by color to, if it's brown like your old one then it's time to change. You can also tell by the psi if the carbon block is shot. Since most carbon blocks also have 5 micron prefilters they can get clogged and slow psi. So keep an eye out on your psi and that will judge your first two cartridges. A typical membrane is good for thousands of gallons of water so don't worry about that. If your tds is creeping up from zero then it's time to change your DI. Pure rodi is 0tds so if it's creeping up to about 5 then your di is no good. If you have a mixed bed DI resin then you can tell by the color change too! If you go on spectrapure's website they give a lot of good information on this stuff. I change carbons every 6 months regardless just in case, and di's once a year. Sediments I change when they start turning light to medium brown which is about 3 months.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, go through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1,000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block (collectively called “prefilters” because the treat the water before it reaches the membrane) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The lifespan of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
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