In praise of the Reefkeeper Lite

[Moe_K]

I recently purchased the ReefKeeper Lite (RKL).
I got it to act as the controller for my Blueline 1000 watt heater.
The RKL comes with a temperature probe, a module that is a controllable power strip with 4 outlets, a main computing unit, and a USB connector and cord.

It was pretty easy to just plug the heater into the first outlet, and plug in the temp probe. Once connected, it was fairly easy to tell the main computing unit that outlet #1 is a heater, and to set the temperature point where I wanted.
Had to read the manual to learn that the "default" can be set to either on or off, meaning that if the computer loses connection to the device, the default condition will apply.
For my heater, I chose default as off.

Then I plugged in one of my MH lights into another outlet and told the computer that outlet #2 was a MH light. That brough up timers where I set the on time and off time, and the default state.

I could also pug in powerheads and control them like a wavemaker.

Apparently the unit is very expandable. I could add more power strips and control more items. I could add a pH probe. I could add an interface to the computer to get the RKL to send me alerts via email or text.

Pretty cool that I get the heater controller and light timer for about $115 bucks.
I shoulda got one long ago.

 

[Pat02026]

RKL is a sweet unit bang for the buck. Mine is setup to do ATO, heater, fans in the summer, fuge light, and before switching back to MH was fully controlling my LED's.

 

[s_kelley]

Best money ive spent too. I have it set up to control everything

 

[dcforester1]

Moe thats where it starts, and where it stops is endless. I have it control everything, and then some. I use an Apex, but same idea. I was going to connect it to my sons tank, but kept putting it off. I went to feed them a couple weeks ago, and steam was coming off the water, I was pissed at myself, Because we have the means to control these issues, and to not take advantage of them is crazy. It can get expensive, but they are great to have. When I go away if I have an issue I have a friend come over, and he takes care of it. Disaster has been averted a couple times. I also use it for non reef things. I just put a water bug in my basement, and now if I get some water, it will set an alarm off and email me. I wouldnt have a tank without some form of one, and they have a price almost anyone can afford.

Enjoy it Derek

 

[mchartier]

Just a heads up. The high power items like MH should be on channels 1 and 4 along with anything like a aqualifter pump (such a small draw will stay on when its suppose to be off). Those two channels have a different type of relay than channels 2 & 3. What can happen is when the lights are suppose to go off they will flicker every now and then (speaking from experience.).
The other thing is the heater function that is programmed have a very small hysterious, so the heater will cycle on and off a lot. I would change it to have a little bit more leeway before it cycles on, like about .5 degrees.
So to do that, go to that output, set to Auto, then change function to controller.
Select the temp or itemp probe that you have.
Set the desired temp you want the tank, then change the hysterious to what you would like, I have mine set to .75 (IIRC the default heater function one is .1) then set to on when below, and make sure you save it.

 

[dcforester1]

Just a heads up. The high power items like MH should be on channels 1 and 4 along with anything like a aqualifter pump (such a small draw will stay on when its suppose to be off). Those two channels have a different type of relay than channels 2 & 3. What can happen is when the lights are suppose to go off they will flicker every now and then (speaking from experience.).
The other thing is the heater function that is programmed have a very small hysterious, so the heater will cycle on and off a lot. I would change it to have a little bit more leeway before it cycles on, like about .5 degrees.
So to do that, go to that output, set to Auto, then change function to controller.
Select the temp or itemp probe that you have.
Set the desired temp you want the tank, then change the hysterious to what you would like, I have mine set to .75 (IIRC the default heater function one is .1) then set to on when below, and make sure you save it.

Good tips, I never realized it until I got my calcium reactor, and I heard constant clicking. My PH would go from 6.9 to 7, and back so it would just keep going on/off on /off

 

[Moe_K]

Just a heads up. The high power items like MH should be on channels 1 and 4 along with anything like a aqualifter pump (such a small draw will stay on when its suppose to be off). Those two channels have a different type of relay than channels 2 & 3. What can happen is when the lights are suppose to go off they will flicker every now and then (speaking from experience.).
The other thing is the heater function that is programmed have a very small hysterious, so the heater will cycle on and off a lot. I would change it to have a little bit more leeway before it cycles on, like about .5 degrees.
So to do that, go to that output, set to Auto, then change function to controller.
Select the temp or itemp probe that you have.
Set the desired temp you want the tank, then change the hysterious to what you would like, I have mine set to .75 (IIRC the default heater function one is .1) then set to on when below, and make sure you save it.

Great tip, thanks. I've noticed the heater coming on a lot. I wondered if there was anything to do about it. I'll do as you advised.
Thanks!

Feel free to shoot more tips if you've got 'em.

 

[Moe_K]

Moe thats where it starts, and where it stops is endless. I have it control everything, and then some. I use an Apex, but same idea. I was going to connect it to my sons tank, but kept putting it off. I went to feed them a couple weeks ago, and steam was coming off the water, I was pissed at myself, Because we have the means to control these issues, and to not take advantage of them is crazy. It can get expensive, but they are great to have. When I go away if I have an issue I have a friend come over, and he takes care of it. Disaster has been averted a couple times. I also use it for non reef things. I just put a water bug in my basement, and now if I get some water, it will set an alarm off and email me. I wouldnt have a tank without some form of one, and they have a price almost anyone can afford.

Enjoy it Derek

Yeah Derek, I was thinking another RK module might be a great gift idea. I'll be sure and tell Santa.
I'd love to get the wavemaker funcion going, but with a 1000 watt heater and two 250 MH lights, I'm close to maxed out on PC4, I think.

 

[Moe_K]

Just a heads up. The high power items like MH should be on channels 1 and 4 along with anything like a aqualifter pump (such a small draw will stay on when its suppose to be off). Those two channels have a different type of relay than channels 2 & 3. What can happen is when the lights are suppose to go off they will flicker every now and then (speaking from experience.).
The other thing is the heater function that is programmed have a very small hysterious, so the heater will cycle on and off a lot. I would change it to have a little bit more leeway before it cycles on, like about .5 degrees.
So to do that, go to that output, set to Auto, then change function to controller.
Select the temp or itemp probe that you have.
Set the desired temp you want the tank, then change the hysterious to what you would like, I have mine set to .75 (IIRC the default heater function one is .1) then set to on when below, and make sure you save it.

One question here, the hysteresis, 000.1 is the smallest point I can set.
Did you mean 000.7 degrees as the hysteresis?

 

[ernie111]

Change from the heater function to the controller function and you can set the hysteresis to whatever you'd like!

 

[mchartier]

One question here, the hysteresis, 000.1 is the smallest point I can set.
Did you mean 000.7 degrees as the hysteresis?

Yes, I have an Elite so there's a slight difference in the programming here and there.

Also if you use any od the standby's for feeding or water changes you can have a delay before a piece of equipment comes on when the standby timer finishes. I put one on my skimmer and ATO, I run a baffleless sump so I use a standby to turn my return, skimmer and ATO off for water changes, if I did not use the delay, my skimmer would overflow and my ATO would kick on.

If you have any questions on programming a function or how to do something feel free to ask.

 

[Moe_K]

Yes, I have an Elite so there's a slight difference in the programming here and there.

Also if you use any od the standby's for feeding or water changes you can have a delay before a piece of equipment comes on when the standby timer finishes. I put one on my skimmer and ATO, I run a baffleless sump so I use a standby to turn my return, skimmer and ATO off for water changes, if I did not use the delay, my skimmer would overflow and my ATO would kick on.

If you have any questions on programming a function or how to do something feel free to ask.

Cool, thanks!
I got the hysteresis set last night at the 0.7. That was a good tip, seriously. Heater was coming on every other second before.
Nice to have that powerful heater keeping the tank nice and warm in this cold house.

 

[Moe_K]

"iTemp Error"

Update:
Today I got an "iTemp error" on the RKL.
Tried to recalibrate, will not work. Raw value will not stabilize, it just shows a blinking 2047.

Contacted Digital Aquatics after searching the web. Seems they have to send a new temp probe? That sucks. What the hell happens to a probe over a month of use?!?!


Meanwhile the tank is at about 70 degrees and slowly falling.