I cant get rid of nitrates and its driving me crazy!!!!

jadidaskv

JustinV
I dont even have any livestock either!!
I started a new system a couple years ago, 75g dt, 55g sump. I have a ton of rock and sand in both. Its hard to tell how much because it was all dry when i put it in and was pickin and choosing from rock my brother and i had from the two tanks we broke down years before. Id say probably 100# in the display and 80# in the sump. Maybe more. Theres about 2.5-4" of sand in the dt i think i bought like 80-100# worth of live sand bags from petco, and 3-4" in the sump. Im also running a fluval 405 that i jus changed the media in.

The tank was up and running pretty good for a couple years jus as a FOWLR tank with hopes of corals in the future. I change the filter media every couple months. Then one day every day-every other day a fish would die. Testing only showed phosphate .25-0.5, and nitrate 40-60ppm. I was down to twoo clows for a couple weeks then one clown died. She lived for another couple months before she died. Still testing only showed the same. Then my return pump crapped out and didnt replace it for a few months, i know its bad but i didnt have much time or anything to get and set up a new one, and i didnt have any fish left so.....

Now i got a new return pump but set it up jus circulating the sump instead of running to the display for about a month so i could try and get one if not both tanks better before connecting them. Neither one seemed to be gettin any better so i set the return to go to the display. I had flow i the display w the fluval and a maxi jet 900.

Its been connected for almost a week and still no change with the fluval guts being changed w nitrogen sponge in the bottom tray, fluval prefitler sponges removed and open, cabron and seachem phosguard in all the other chambers so three chambers of each then nitrogen sponge on the top chamber as well. Ive also been heavy dosing with kordon amquel plus ammonia detoxifier that detoxifies nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, chlorine and chlromines for about a week and a half, every other day, about 2-3x the recommended dose to remove 2ppm per 10g. Still my nitrate hasnt come down a bit.

Theres nothing in the tank to produce nitrate why wont it go away lol. Even when there was fish, i was feeding once every 2 or 3 days w the return pump n fluval shut off during feesing so the food didnt all get sucked up in the filters.

Idk why i cant get rid of these damn nitrates!!! Never had any problems w ammonia or nitrite, just nitrate and a little phosphate. I battled redslime for a little while but black outs always worked, then less light afterward the last time it never came back.

Sorry so long, wanted to givenas much info as possible lol
 
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Do at least a 50% water change with good RO/DI water. Use a powerhead to blow any debris off your rock. Vacuum the sand bed. Then next week do it again. Do you run a protein skimmer?
 
No skimmer. How do ppl run amazing reefs without doing water changes and no skimmer? Lol

Im injured with a really bad back injury and money is tight at the moment since im out of work with my back injury. Cant really afford to be using a ton of salt and lifting buckets for water changes. $70 a bucket of salt for 150 gallons goes real fast doing 50% weekly water changes on 120-130g system.

Ive been thinking about gettin or DIYing some kind of reactor.
 
What type of rock and did they ever go dry before moving into your tank?
 
First of all, check your test kit. If you are using API nitrate test kit, I will suggest replace it with red sea or salifert.
Live rock require a lot of water flow in order to work. What kind of water flow do you have in the tank?
Also, I will replace the Fluval with a good skimmer.
 
toss a ball of cheato in there under some light and it will go down , and ditch the cannister filter those are nitrate factories
 
Im not exactly sure on the type of rock. Theres a little branch rock but only couple pounds. It all seems pretty porus. Not the most potus, but not solid stone. It was dry for a couply years before putting it in the tank. When i set it back up, i did seed it with a little bit of new live rock when cycling.

I have two test kits n both are api. Ones old ones newer. The old one says 20-40ppm, the newer one says its spiked.

I have a good amount of flow. The fluval is 325gph, ehiem 3000 compact+ 3ft head so prob 700gph, and a maxi jet 900 in circulation mode, i think 1000 or 1200 gph.

My sump isnt chambered, i jus have a bunch of live rock and sand. Im sure could use more flow down there, or atleast chamber it to get more action on the top of the water. I have the overflow on one side and the return pump on the other so there is some flow and a little top water movement.

Canisters are fine as long as you keep up with them. Especially when the sponge tray is removed. Next time i change the guts ill have no sponge. I just put some in this time to try the nitrogen sponge to see if it helps w the nitrate. The stuff in the fluval has only been in there 2 maybe 3 days, and will be changing it monthly. The carbon and phosguard are loose, not in bags so it doesnt trap as much crap as it would in bags.
 
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I was successful with a canister filter. The trick to that is to keep up with carbon changes and filter floss changes. There should be some biomedia in there to maintain a bio filtration cycle so I would rinse out/replace filter floss every 3-4 weeks and replace the carbon at the same time. Without proper maintenance they can cause major nitrate issues.

It sounds to me you have a lot of die off from the live rocks and that may be the cause since it came from an old tank. It should have passed but as others mentioned without water flow going through the rock it can cause bacterial die off.

I would improve the sump system. Do you have pictures of the set up?


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The rock has been in this tank at least 2 years, maybe 3, and it was dry for atleast 3 years before it was put in and cycled with this tank. Always seemed to have moderate flow too. I didn't always have the nitrate issue either. It was jus this last year.
 
Also, i always had some bio rocks/media in the fluval. I jus got rid of it last time i changed the filter media a couple days ago. Figure w all the live rock and sand i have, didnt think i really needed more bio filtration.
 
Setup an algae scrubber in your sump. Some people will tell you not to but I have one in my sump on my 260g total water valume system and I can't get a nitrate reading for the life of me and I have been feeding 6 cubes of food a day on the weekends with a sheet of. Pro and during the week 3 cubes and a 1/4 sheet of nori. I want nitrates to see if it helps color up my acros. It no such luck. Phosphates also stay at .03
 
Ya i was thinking about setting up a scrubber and or some sort of reactor. Was hoping to find the source of the nitrates first though. What kind of scrubber would be best? The ones inside the sump/underwater with the airstone, or the pvc waterfall type? I was thinking the waterfall type coming off my overflow to make more top water movement for the sump.
 
I use a waterfall type I made myself with some red led grow lights I bought off amazon
 
I had the scrubber going since the cycle on my tank ended. So whatever the nitrates were at the end of the cycle. Tank has been going for little over a year with a crash about 8 months into the tank. The crash was unrelated to the scrubber or nutrients.
 
Whats your source of water? Have you had it tested?

When I lived in Framingham the water supply had high levels of nitrate, I was just adding nitrate back into the tank with each water change and top off.

Also as a side note, API test kits expire.
 
Same water source ive been using on every tank ive have for the last....crap like 10-12years now. Good ole malden tap water. Never had a problem w any of my other tanks. Even when they would do repairs on the pipes never a problem. Even when it was on my street/infront my house. They have been some repairs up the st lately, but that all started after the problems. Last night i was actually thinking to finally test the water source.

I know api test kits expire, thats why i have an old one and a newer one lol. It actually took the old one years after the expire date before it wasnt accurate anymore. Like 3-4years after the expire date until it wasnt accurate. By that time the kits was at least 7-8 maybe even 10 yrs old. N so far its jus the nitrated thats not accurate. All the others still match the newer kit
 
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I think API nitrate test kit is not accurate to begin with, regardless expiration date.
 
1.) 100% use RODI water and not tap water.
2.) Lose the canister filter.
3.) Update your testkits.
4.) Setup a refugium
5.) Vacuum out or clean some of that sand (2.5-4" of sand in the dt)
 
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