Rectangular Fiji Cube

Reefried

In need of Reefhab
BRS Member
So I have been without a tank for ten plus years. I spent the whole time imagining my next build, lurking the forums, and keeping up with the latest technology in reefing.

I decided it was time to pull the trigger. I started slowly buying things when they went on sale. I also settled on a 120gal starfire tank. I also was planning a steel stand, powder coated. That I would skin later. I am still undecided on canopy or no canopy, however I know I am going T5 with some led supplementation for pop. This thread will be a bit back dated as I currently have the tank up and cycling. Plans are for it to be a SPS heavy mixed reef. Some zoa’s, some nice LPS etc.

Some pics for those of you that hate reading!!
 

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So I have been without a tank for ten plus years. I spent the whole time imagining my next build, lurking the forums, and keeping up with the latest technology in reefing.

I decided it was time to pull the trigger. I started slowly buying things when they went on sale. I also settled on a 120gal starfire tank. I also was planning a steel stand, powder coated. That I would skin later. I am still undecided on canopy or no canopy, however I know I am going T5 with some led supplementation for pop. This thread will be a bit back dated as I currently have the tank up and cycling. Plans are for it to be a SPS heavy mixed reef. Some zoa’s, some nice LPS etc.

Some pics for those of you that hate reading!!
Thanks for sharing.
 
So I had been looking at the SCA 120 starfire tanks and liked them. I watched review videos and read a bunch of threads. People seemed happy. I settled on the 120 drilled for a synergy reef shadow overflow. I placed the order and felt good about it.

Now it was time to settle on a stand. I could buy a steel stand from CDA aquarium, and have it powder coated myself for about $1200. I thought that price was high, so I started looking into having one built locally. I went to a few metal fabrication shops. To my surprise they quoted me $1500-1800 just to build it!! That made me look into 80/20 stands.

I found the usual websites where I could order all the parts and build myself. Although ordering all of the supports/brackets and hardware is a bit tricky. Also I wanted to go with black 80/20 but it is considerably more expensive. I finally checked out Tenecor Aquarium. They make acrylic tanks. They actually had stand packages that include hdpe top and bottom decks. They do not offer black, but I figured I would paint it. So I purchased the stand. 48”x24”x36”. With top and bottom decks. The stand was $1050 all said and done. About $300 higher than Framing Tech, but I wouldn’t have to go buy a sheet of hdpe and cut. I received it about three weeks later and packaging was great. The feet were impressive and it went together in about an hour and a half. It is solid and I have no worries that it will support the tank easily.
 

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Top and bottom shelve’s/deck.
 

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So after my tank was ordered and stand ordered, I figured I would order my sump. I looked at dozens of options. Different configurations, colors, sizes, etc. I settled on Synergy reef. They are handcrafted to order, American made, and had excellent reviews. It also was a factor that the tank was pre drilled for a Synergy Reef Shadow overflow. Although I was less impressed and excited about the overflow reviews. Most of the reviews were based on the V1 and V2 versions, and the one I would be buying would be a V3. They come with 1.5” plumbing, and are set up for bean animal style. 1.5” plumbing is in my opinion is oversized especially for the turnover I am planning through my sump. So I finalized my decision and ordered their 34” sump. Set up for filter socks. We will get into my thoughts on the sock/rollermat thing later.
 
So after tank was ordered from SCA. I noticed that the transaction remained pending in my account. About ten days later I received an email stating that the one 120 drilled for external overflow they had in stock was broken!! They offered to give me a 150 ext for the same price. That was nice of them, however would not work as I had already ordered my stand and sump! Now it was time to find a new 4 foot tank. I contacted many custom tank manufacturers. The prices were all anywhere from $2500-$3000. I was planning on spending $1800 max. The SCA was $1200. And while it is definitely the cheapest on the market, the quality and reviews were positive. So the tank dilemma continued.

In the meantime, I was ready to paint my stand. I brought it to the basement, and went with satin black spray paint. I did three coats with about a day between coats. It came out perfect.
 

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While the stand was drying for a few days, I took the time to run a new dedicated 20amp circuit and rodi line up to the second floor from the basement. I am loving the fact the tank will be on the second floor as we have a spare smaller bedroom. It will be perfect for the tank, not looking forward to getting the tank up there, but we will see what happens!!!
 

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Never thought to use a wall plate but that makes the RODI line look super clean, did you drill the hole or find one like that? Too bad about the SCA tank, how long would it take for them to get you a new one?
 
Never thought to use a wall plate but that makes the RODI line look super clean, did you drill the hole or find one like that? Too bad about the SCA tank, how long would it take for them to get you a new one?
It is just a simple blank plate. 1/4” hole drilled in it. One side of the T will go to the rodi reservoir, and the other to a line for water changes.

SCA had no idea when they would have more. I narrowed it down to a Fiji Cube 108ext. Rimless, low iron glass on 3 sides. And in stock!! I upgraded to their 1600 overflow box as it has 1.5” plumbing. I already ordered the sump and some plumbing fittings.
 
So after not being able to get the SCA 120. I ordered a Fiji Cube 108 ext. I ordered in mid December, and had an estimated date of January 5th. It has almost the same dimensions as a 120. It is 47 1/4” x 23 1/2” x 22 1/2”

Well January 5th came and went! I reached out to Fiji cube. Their response took awhile. So I was able to speak with the shipping company, as tracking showed it reaching Philadelphia. The terminal in Philly could not find the tank. After speaking with then a couple of times they reassured me that they would perform a dock sweep and locate. In the meantime, Fiji Cube responded and their shipping manager would take charge. Two weeks later they let me know that the tank was damaged during shipping. The worst part was that they had no more in stock. They were expecting to get more at the end of February! I had no choice but to wait. Not too bad as I had things to do. I had to finish the stand. I also ordered about 80 pounds of Marco Rock and would start my aqua scape.
 
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Time to build out the stand. I have to put a back on it, and start building the controller cabinet. For the back and controller cabinet divider, I went with 3/4 mdf. I painted 3 coats of marine grade paint, and will polyurethane to seal.
 

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Put the back on the stand. Will polyurethane everything in place. Started making the controller board. Also bought some led under cabinet lights from Amazon. I did not want to just stick them to the underside of the stand, so I also bought a trim kit, with a lens. Painted it black.
 

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The stand was coming along nicely, and I had ordered about 80 pounds of Marco rock. I figured I would start my scape. I decided on a single island, with overhanging ledges on both sides. I ordered a large base piece that was flat to build off. I used the BRS super glue and actuator and once finally happy I would use the Marco rock mortar.
 

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My aquascape came out nicely. I am happy with it. I have pics but they don’t seem to show all the holes, and ledges. I will take a video. I am happy with the Marco rock mortar. I ended up mixing it to a slightly wetter mix. Putting it in a ziplock bag, and using it like I was decorating a cake! Worked well. I had the idea (stolen from Abe at Coral Euphoria) to drill holes in the rock, or make existing holes larger, and use acrylic rod, and frag disks so I could remove, and move around SPS to help find the best location for them. The par and flow they prefer and also to help balance color throughout the display. After trying to drill the rock, I decided this was not the right move. I still loved the idea of being able to move things around, especially in during acclimation and in the beginning stages. So I went with these 3D printed frag plug holders from Printed Reef. They are a bit brittle but I think they will work.

As soon as I put them all over the rock work, the scape instantly looked ridiculous. However it has grown on me, and once coralline, and eventually encrusting happens it will not look so hideous.
 

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I finished the controller cabinet. I am by no means a carpenter, but it came out nicely. I used magnets and L brackets for the removable part. Tried to keep it as neat as possible, however as it fills up it will be difficult. Also trying to keep in mind accessibility to remove and clean pumps etc.

I installed cable raceways to conceal cords, added desk grommets for pass throughs. It came out nice.

A little about the set up. I am trying to go old school and simple. I debated a controller for awhile and decided to start without one. The best feature of an Apex or similar controller (besides some obvious automation, alerts etc) is that it could monitor PH, keep a record of it, and eventually control a calcium reactor. I don’t like to run my lights, power heads or heaters from a controller so I decided to start without one. I plan on using a kalk reactor for the first year or so to maintain alk and calcium. We will see after that. The tank will hopefully be simple. Clean sump, with heater, skimmer and filter socks. I thought about a roller for about two seconds and went with old school socks. People always complain about changing them, I don’t understand it. It takes about two minutes to swap them out. I will toss them in the slop sink, and wash them when I get about ten of them. If I go on vacation, I will simply remove them while I’m gone. Also I like to use simple mechanical timers for lights. These Intermatic weather proof ones have worked well for me in the past, so I am using them again. For top off I will be using an Avast marine air pressure switch. I used the Tsunami brand before with great results, and the Avast is similar, with great reviews. It is a simple set up, with not much to fail, no float switches or optical eyes to maintain. Fairly simple.
 

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