120 Fish tank in New house floor
- Thread starter uhupong
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uhupong
Well-Known Member
I dont know how can i tell ?
this is me
I like turtles
Yes, I would measure the floor joist and the span. It should be 2x10 floor joist. You can also get a couple of 2x10 and sandwich it to the original floor joist to strengthen it.
Also, if the floor hardwood or tile? This all add to support as the hardwood is another 3/4" .
Also, if the floor hardwood or tile? This all add to support as the hardwood is another 3/4" .
panayiote73
Non-member
If it's new construction your floor joists are 2x12, exterior walls are 2x6, all interior walls are 2x4, they all span no more than 16" on center. This is building code unless you specified otherwise.
The short answer is you'll be fine. It's not enough weight to cause a catastrophic failure. Although, It is more weight than your floors are engineered to support. Over time you will notice the floor beginning to sag. It'll probably take 10 yrs. if it were my house I'd add a header, at least 3-2x8's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between. Pickup 2 lali columns and your done. Your slab will support the weight so no need for extra footer. That's what I did at my house with the same tank
. Then my wife made me move the tank to the basement
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The short answer is you'll be fine. It's not enough weight to cause a catastrophic failure. Although, It is more weight than your floors are engineered to support. Over time you will notice the floor beginning to sag. It'll probably take 10 yrs. if it were my house I'd add a header, at least 3-2x8's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between. Pickup 2 lali columns and your done. Your slab will support the weight so no need for extra footer. That's what I did at my house with the same tank
. Then my wife made me move the tank to the basementSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
reefstarter
Non-member
+1 to this . a standard live load floor should handle 1000 lbs no problem . a 120 filled will be around 1800 or so . I would add a little support but not like building a bridge lol. actually bridging the joist by adding "blocks between them will help a lot as it joins each joist together forming one solid structureIf it's new construction your floor joists are 2x12, exterior walls are 2x6, all interior walls are 2x4, they all span no more than 16" on center. This is building code unless you specified otherwise.
The short answer is you'll be fine. It's not enough weight to cause a catastrophic failure. Although, It is more weight than your floors are engineered to support. Over time you will notice the floor beginning to sag. It'll probably take 10 yrs. if it were my house I'd add a header, at least 3-2x8's with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between. Pickup 2 lali columns and your done. Your slab will support the weight so no need for extra footer. That's what I did at my house with the same tank
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
BackInTheTank
Non-member
As for hardwood this will add strength because the underlayment sub floor goes across the floor joist and the hard wood goes against that so it's like building a laminate lvl. Adds shear strength. But tile does not tile adds weight with cement board, then mortar and then tile ( stone) so this would add weight to the weight limits on the floor area. But either way if you are not spanning the LVL . I would sister every joist under the tank . This will double the shear load the floor could hold. If the LVL is under the load bearing wall that the back of your tank is up against. I would go down stairs and build a 2x4 wall on the flat on the wall under your LVL. So PT 2x4 on edge and then stack your KD 2x4 on that up to where your floor joist are lost hanger on the LVL. .. if this is confusing. Please feel free to PM and I will give you my number and walk you through what I mean. I am in the same situation with the LVLS . But my floor joist are clear span TGIs so there shear strength is alot more than a standard KD 2x10. But I will still support my lvl hangers . Better safe than sorry.
