2 part / Ato float switches

[gonorth16]

Hey guys,
I dont have an ATO yet and need one soon. I currently dose 2 part and I pour it in my sump twice a day, Ive noticed that I have a hard type white residue on the glass of the sump. Ive scraped it off with a razorblade and its good for awhile but it comes back. Im worried that it will affect the float switches on the ATO and have a failure. Do I need to split the doses to 4x a day so that theres not that much 2 part in the sump at a time? Any input would help. Thanks,Peter

 

[beckbrass]

Calcium will build up on anything in the sump when dosing. I'd reccomend a pressure switch as an ato like the one avast marine sells. I've had one for over a year and still works great. There are no moving parts in the sump so nothing sticks.
Here's a link

http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/do/product/rigging/Top-off-Kit

 

[inverted]

I've have a reef fanatic ATO, for over 5 years and never had an ATO switch fail or even cleaned them. I think it depends on the brand though. Tunze has one with optical sensors, that is even more reliable, although, it's expensive and I believe you are limited to their pump, which IMO is too fast for an ATO. With float switches, the key is redundancy. Make sure you have 1 to turn the pump on and off and one to sense high levels, if the first fails. Also, possibly one in the ATO bucket to sense low water, if your pump can be damaged by running dry. I prefer slow pumps though, such as aqualift pumps or peristaltic pumps, that are configured to just pump a bit faster than the evaporation rate. This way even if something does get stuck, it takes a long time for it to become an issue.

 

[KSC]

In think the simplest solution is to just dose your topoff with a dosing pump. I use the BRS 50ml/minute pump. If you are dosing a lot of 2 part, your salinity will creep up if you use an ato. I have to occasionally adjust the dose depending on the season, but have no worries of malfunctioning sensors, switches, and the salinity rising. Probably the cheapest solution too.

 

[stingythingy45]

I ditched 2 part along time ago and went with kalk top-off.
Much easier.

 

[Andy V]

I have this very problem, which I why I am switching to the Tunze Osmolator. If you have a smaller sump, you will get precipitation like you are getting. Ultimately it will make the switch stick every couple months. You can just soak the switch in vinegar and be fine, but it's just another thing you have to do. The pressure switch that was mentioned can be fine, but they allow a lot more water to evaporate before they turn on.

 

[beckbrass]

I find the pressure switch to let about a 1/4 inch or less to evaporate before it turns on. I guess thats might be a lot but it's all relative. Each time it turns on it adds about 4-6 cups of water.

I have heard the osmolator is very nice as well.

 

[gonorth16]

Thanks guys, Im going to look into the tunze Osmolator , I know its more expensive but with just some of the reviews Ive just read it seems like a solid unit. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Greg Hiller]

I highly recommend the Tsuami AT-1 pressure switch. I've never had one fail. I have about 8 of them running for many years. They are not prone to problems with precipication or snail rides, etc. They run about $70 I believe. Championlighting sells them.

 

[gonorth16]

I highly recommend the Tsuami AT-1 pressure switch. I've never had one fail. I have about 8 of them running for many years. They are not prone to problems with precipication or snail rides, etc. They run about $70 I believe. Championlighting sells them.

I think im going with the tsuami, $200 for the tunze is too much for me . Thanks for the input

 

[beckbrass]

Aquacave also sells it. It's almost the same as the avast one but the avast one has a magnet mount instead of suction cup. Suction cups fail more the magnetism

http://www.aquacave.com/tsunami-at-1-auto-brtop-off-system-ato-254.html

As a paid member you can get a discount at aquacave.