ballast repair??? anyone know where to have fixed, or anyone who does this???

[pallobi]

got a dual 400 watt PFO ballast from a package deal that included a RR 180 AGA tank and square tube steel stand... it also came with some PFO ballasts and a bunch of other goodies... problem is one of the sides of the dual ballast (the other is single), does not work i was told... i am curious if anyone has any info on where or how i may be able to have this problem taken care of... i know nothing of halide lighting really (well, i know the 3 basic components and how they work) and am very much in need of some advice... i need to have this fixed so i can either use it down the road, or find someone who may want it... but i obviously cant use it or pass it along if it is not fully working properly, as i am sure most can understand

thanks for any help guys, i really could use some advice on this...

 

[s_kelley]

Open it up and see if its like a blown capacitor or something. Those are an easy fix. I guess it really depends on what is wrong with it.

 

[pallobi]

i know nothing of the internal workings or parts... is this someting that is easily visible??

 

[s_kelley]

Well sometimes. I had a capacitor that was split. It looked like it was melting.

 

[delta]

Does it fire up a light at all? Do you have an old bulb you can test? I know when my capacitor died it wouldn't fully fire the bulb it would light would fire but wasn't getting bright then would shut down. It did have a burnt smell when I opened it.

Worst case is you replace the whole thing with a bare ballast, but a capacitor will be pretty cheap $25-30.

You could try contacting Hamilton technology a BRS sponsor they have always been good for me with stuff like this.

If you do test it might be good to open it first and take a look for any damaged part or a black oily/sludge like substance leaking out.
might have a burnt smell as well

 

[JayM]

also, be warned, a capacitor can give you a very unpleasant shock if you are in the ground path of a discharge

 

[pallobi]

also, be warned, a capacitor can give you a very unpleasant shock if you are in the ground path of a discharge

thanks jay, good to know lol, wouldnt want any "surprises" lol

 

[Bobbofin]

also, be warned, a capacitor can give you a very unpleasant shock if you are in the ground path of a discharge

Actually, a capacitor in certian situations can kill you. I work on microwave ovens that have 110 to 2000 volt transformers that run the microwave magnetrons. You have to discharge the capacitors between the transformer and magnetron with a screw driver or it's D.O.C. (death on contact). I'm sure metal halide bulbs don't run on 2000 volts but I'd guess bewteen 500-1000 volts. Before touching the inside make sure you unplugged for 10 minutes then short across terminals of capacitor with a screw driver for 5 seconds to discharge. It won't make much of a spark so don't worry. Then examine the capacitor to see if it's swelled, split or leaking oil.

 

[pallobi]

Does it fire up a light at all? Do you have an old bulb you can test? I know when my capacitor died it wouldn't fully fire the bulb it would light would fire but wasn't getting bright then would shut down. It did have a burnt smell when I opened it.

Worst case is you replace the whole thing with a bare ballast, but a capacitor will be pretty cheap $25-30.

You could try contacting Hamilton technology a BRS sponsor they have always been good for me with stuff like this.

If you do test it might be good to open it first and take a look for any damaged part or a black oily/sludge like substance leaking out.
might have a burnt smell as well

i actually havent tested it at all... the source said it jus doesnt work and he didnt know why... i will open it up and look around for sure, before even bothering to test it... or at least the other side... i thinking the switch on the working single ballast i got needs a little work too, as the on/off switch doesnt stick properly, so i should look at that one overall too, jus too be safe... another issue i have is, the bulbs i got with it, which will be tossed cuz they are old, will be used to test it all, however they are very dusty and were removed by hand, so i will need to clean them well first... what should i use to do this? jus rubbing alcohol?

thanks for any and all input guys, I am a t5 guy, so i know very little of halide lighting systems, and especially the inner workings... so all advice is appreciated and used

the reflectors will be junked or sold for cheap (spider), and the bulbs as well, but ill be holding on to them until i figure out the ballasts or/and have them fixed or whatnot...

thanks again peeps!

 

[pallobi]

Actually, a capacitor in certian situations can kill you. I work on microwave ovens that have 110 to 2000 volt transformers that run the microwave magnetrons. You have to discharge the capacitors between the transformer and magnetron with a screw driver or it's D.O.C. (death on contact). I'm sure metal halide bulbs don't run on 2000 volts but I'd guess bewteen 500-1000 volts. Before touching the inside make sure you unplugged for 10 minutes then short across terminals of capacitor with a screw driver for 5 seconds to discharge. It won't make much of a spark so don't worry. Then examine the capacitor to see if it's swelled, split or leaking oil.

this is great help bobbofin, as i would have had no idea... a good reason to jus have a experienced person who fixes this stuff on the regular do it, and not even bother with it myself... though i could definitely open it and look around for anything burnt or goo'ing up without it plugged in while or before hand...

thanks again bud... you guys are teaching me alot already!

 

[pallobi]

also helpful insight... thanks!

 

[JayM]

Actually, a capacitor in certian situations can kill you. I work on microwave ovens that have 110 to 2000 volt transformers that run the microwave magnetrons. You have to discharge the capacitors between the transformer and magnetron with a screw driver or it's D.O.C. (death on contact). I'm sure metal halide bulbs don't run on 2000 volts but I'd guess bewteen 500-1000 volts. Before touching the inside make sure you unplugged for 10 minutes then short across terminals of capacitor with a screw driver for 5 seconds to discharge. It won't make much of a spark so don't worry. Then examine the capacitor to see if it's swelled, split or leaking oil.

Bob, I said very unpleasant as a way to discourage screwing around with them. I saw an old tube TV capacitor give a guy an arrhythmia when he got zapped, and they had to call an ambulance. Thanks for the real deal on caps.

 

[Bobbofin]

Bob, I said very unpleasant as a way to discourage screwing around with them. I saw an old tube TV capacitor give a guy an arrhythmia when he got zapped, and they had to call an ambulance. Thanks for the real deal on caps.

I would screw around with them because I know what I'm doing. You only could get zapped if you touch both terminals of the cap. I usually use a set of needle nose pliers to discharge them. If you leave it unplugged for a while (an hour) you shouldn't have any problems once you go inside. If it is a cap you can get one at Grainger.

 

[pallobi]

soooooo, bump and back to my original question, where can i have my ballast fixed? someone here has to know someone local to the region...

and perhaps a few more opinions???

 

[Bobbofin]

If you were nearby I'd fix it for you. If it's only a cap, they are locally available. There must be someone in CTARS that can help you.

 

[pallobi]

but i am a BRS member, not a ctars member well, not anymore lol... i appreciate it jus the same bobbo, i jus thought someone might know someone within reason from me who can give it a good fixin... again, i would attempt myself, but i wouldnt even know waht i was looking at... ill open it up later and look around for the heck of it...

 

[Aquaman_68]

but i am a BRS member, not a ctars member well, not anymore lol... i appreciate it jus the same bobbo, i jus thought someone might know someone within reason from me who can give it a good fixin... again, i would attempt myself, but i wouldnt even know waht i was looking at... ill open it up later and look around for the heck of it...

Open it up....take off the cover & take a good pic.....I will tell u what u need & LYK where u can get it....The cap is probably the problem....U will see the cover popping out from it & some oil discharge coming from where it popped if that is what blew... (usually what goes on the pfo's from age or being subjected to high room temps in the summer!!!)

 

[Bobbofin]

It think he's afriad to open it. It's ok if it hasn't been plugged in for a while.

 

[pallobi]

hey guys... first off thanks for the help so far once again... its not that i am afraid, though i wouldnt wana break anything further, and i realy dont know jack about any of it... i will open tonite or soon when i get a chance and i am thinking of it, and i will post pics here... who knows, maybe it will be jus an easy fix i can do myself with the help of you kind folks... ill post a pic soon... and thank you brian and bobbo... and everyone else for that matter... have a little patience with me, and lets see if we cant get this thing working again on the cheap

thanks again dudes!

 

[Greg Hiller]

There are two things that commonly go bad on these. The switch and the capacitor. You can just cut the switch out and wire it direct. You probably never use the switch anyhow if you have it on a timer. If it's the capacitor those are easy to fix as well. You can call PFO (they are still in business, right?) and have them ship you one.