Cheap and Effective ASM G6 Mod

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Ever since I got this skimmer, it has been really sensitive to sump water levels. The water level in my sump only varies by around 1 inch or less but this seems to drive the skimmer crazy. One very small clockwise turn on my gate valve and the skimmer seemed to perform great. Then after a few hours, the skimmer floods. One very small counter-clockwise turn on the gate valve and the skimmer takes a week to get 1/2 inch of brown skimmate in the collection cup.

I know that internal skimmers perform better by placing them in a vessel whose height is slightly greater than the maximum water level in the sump. But this skimmer with its 3 Sedra 9000 pumps would require a custom vessel or, if I got lucky, a large vessel.

So I decided to see if I could do this another way. As noted above, restricting the water outflow controls the water level in the skimmer. I would expect that the depth of the 3 pumps would also have some effect on the water level inside the skimmer but I decided to ignore this effect.

In order to keep the water level of the outflow pipe constant I just got a 3 inch pipe and cemented it to a flat end cap that allows the pipe to stand up without falling over. Then I cut the top of the pipe so that it was around 3-4 inches above the maximum water level in my sump. I then stuck the skimmer outflow pipe into the larger 3 inch pipe and stood up the pipe in the sump.
My skimmer has not flooded over the last 24 hours. Also, the collection cup has around 4 inches of dark liquid in it. It looks like this fix really works and it does not require a large container to fit the 3 pumps, riser tube, etc. I guess constant depth of the 3 pumps is less critical than having a constant depth of the skimmer outflow pipe.

I was ready to buy a new skimmer, but I think I'll wait a little and see how this works out. So far, things look good.

 

[JohnK]

Need a pic, sounds good though.

 

[MikeG]

Just want to make sure, your gate valve is before the vent stack on the mod correct? I had the same issue with flooding and problems adjusting my Euroreef 12-1 until someone on another site suggested to put the gate valve directly off the skimmer then a 90 to go horizontal then a T to have a vent go up and the drain go down into the sump. What was happening in my case was air lock inside the plumbing causing the water level inside the skimmer body to rise and lead to a flood.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Mod

My gate valve mod doesn't have a vent T...

The valve is right off of the skimmer on the vertical outflow pipe . It is followed by a 90 degree elbow to go horizontal and then another 90 deg elbow to go bacfk down to the sump.

Just want to make sure, your gate valve is before the vent stack on the mod correct? I had the same issue with flooding and problems adjusting my Euroreef 12-1 until someone on another site suggested to put the gate valve directly off the skimmer then a 90 to go horizontal then a T to have a vent go up and the drain go down into the sump. What was happening in my case was air lock inside the plumbing causing the water level inside the skimmer body to rise and lead to a flood.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Pic

I'll try and post one tonight...

Need a pic, sounds good though.

 

[MikeG]

That could definately be the issue. Replace the last 90 with a T and put a vent stack on the top, See if that fixes the issue.

My gate valve mod doesn't have a vent T...

The valve is right off of the skimmer on the vertical outflow pipe . It is followed by a 90 degree elbow to go horizontal and then another 90 deg elbow to go bacfk down to the sump.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Vent

I read that the water level in the sump relative to the outflow pipe was critical for all internal skimmers. Anyway, it would not hurt to include a T as well.
So with the vent, you don't have to be concerned with a varying water level in the sump?

That could definately be the issue. Replace the last 90 with a T and put a vent stack on the top, See if that fixes the issue.

 

[MikeG]

I read that the water level in the sump relative to the outflow pipe was critical for all internal skimmers. Anyway, it would not hurt to include a T as well.
So with the vent, you don't have to be concerned with a varying water level in the sump?

Any in sump skimmer you need to have a constant water level in the sump. This might just be adding to the problem and if the drain is submerged it is most definately part of the problem. For the cost of a T it's definately worth it. I also found it helps to put a cap on the top of the vent and just drill a few holes. Much quieter and still lets the air escape.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Mod

Sounds good Mike...I'll definitely add the vent. Even though the problem is seemingly gone, making things better is always a good thing...especially if they are inexpensive. Thanks for the suggestion.

Any in sump skimmer you need to have a constant water level in the sump. This might just be adding to the problem and if the drain is submerged it is most definately part of the problem. For the cost of a T it's definately worth it. I also found it helps to put a cap on the top of the vent and just drill a few holes. Much quieter and still lets the air escape.

 

[delta]

Even if the drain isn't submerged without the vent the drain will siphon, then the siphon will break, rinse and repeat.
You will go nuts trying to adjust it as it is constantly changing.

 

[MikeG]

Sounds good Mike...I'll definitely add the vent. Even though the problem is seemingly gone, making things better is always a good thing...especially if they are inexpensive. Thanks for the suggestion.

No problem. Mine was only overflowing every couple weeks but has not done so since I made this change. Much more consistent too.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Pix

Here's a pic of the mod and the skimmer

 

[stingythingy45]

You should look into the recirc mod,water level in the sump doesn't effect it at all.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

The first pic shows the drain pipe inserted into a 3" pvc pipe with a cap on the bottom (not visible - under the water)

The second shows the gate valve mod and a DIY splash guard.

The brown smelly skimmate is what has been collected since yesterday night....not too shabby!!!!....and no flooding of the collection cup.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Recirc Mod

I actually have the UniSeals and was planning to do the recirc mod on one or more of the 3 pumps. Just haven't gotten to it yet.

You should look into the recirc mod,water level in the sump doesn't effect it at all.

 

[stingythingy45]

You're gonna love it.
Where ever you set the water level,it stays dead nuts.
I have a T that lead to a reverse durso with a filter sock and carbon on one side and the skimmer on the other.I find that I have most of the water from the overflow diverted to the skimmer.

 

[MikeG]

After seeing your pic my guess for the reason it is overflowing is from the lack of venting after the gate valve and air getting trapped in the plumbing increasing the water level in the skimer rather than small fluctuations in sump water level. This would produce random overflowing events. I would also add that T ASAP to get it working even better.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

T-Mod

I tried the T-mod and got an unexpected result.

First, a little history. Ever since installing the G-6, and the gate valve mod, I have been able to reduce the water level way below the bottom of the inverted cone at the top of the riser tube. This was true with both the needle wheel and the meshwheel. This is required in order to remove, empty and clean the collection cup.

When I replaced the elbow after the gate valve with a Tee, I could not lower the water level below the top of the inverted cone or neck of the skimmer. Even with the gate valve opened up all the way, the water level was at the top of the neck. If I closed the valve the water rose from there. When I blocked the vent in the top of the T the water level dropped to where it usually had been when I opened the valve all the way. I also noted that there was considerable suction on my hand which seems like it actually helps "suction" the water out of the skimmer faster without a vent. This makes sense to me since a vent on a drain is normally used to break the suction on the drain.

Anyway, I am sticking with the "constant water level" mod described above without the vent for now. Although it has flooded a few times, this happens much less frequently and really only happens when I try to aggresively wet skim with the water level in the skimmer riser tube quite high.

After seeing your pic my guess for the reason it is overflowing is from the lack of venting after the gate valve and air getting trapped in the plumbing increasing the water level in the skimer rather than small fluctuations in sump water level. This would produce random overflowing events. I would also add that T ASAP to get it working even better.

 

[MikeG]

The fix to this would be to lower the horizontal portion of the gate valve mod (cut the vetical part shorter, mine is only as tall as the gate valve itself). Also make sure that your venturi's on all pumps have been cleaned out. I use a 1/8" drill bit and it needs to be done about every 3 weeks for me to get constant performance. As I said, my skimmer has not overflowed in about 2 months now after setting my gate valve up like this.

I tried the T-mod and got an unexpected result.

First, a little history. Ever since installing the G-6, and the gate valve mod, I have been able to reduce the water level way below the bottom of the inverted cone at the top of the riser tube. This was true with both the needle wheel and the meshwheel. This is required in order to remove, empty and clean the collection cup.

When I replaced the elbow after the gate valve with a Tee, I could not lower the water level below the top of the inverted cone or neck of the skimmer. Even with the gate valve opened up all the way, the water level was at the top of the neck. If I closed the valve the water rose from there. When I blocked the vent in the top of the T the water level dropped to where it usually had been when I opened the valve all the way. I also noted that there was considerable suction on my hand which seems like it actually helps "suction" the water out of the skimmer faster without a vent. This makes sense to me since a vent on a drain is normally used to break the suction on the drain.

Anyway, I am sticking with the "constant water level" mod described above without the vent for now. Although it has flooded a few times, this happens much less frequently and really only happens when I try to aggresively wet skim with the water level in the skimmer riser tube quite high.

 

[Chuck Spyropulos]

Mod

Unfortunately, I can't do that since the gate valve is as low as it will go. If you look at the picture above, the gate valve sits right on the permanent integrated skimmer tube (with a brace to the skimmer riser tube)that holds an inner adjustable height drain tube. Also, I clean out the venturi air inlet weekly with a drill so I'm pretty sure it is not that.

Mike, can you post a picture of your mod?

The fix to this would be to lower the horizontal portion of the gate valve mod (cut the vetical part shorter, mine is only as tall as the gate valve itself). Also make sure that your venturi's on all pumps have been cleaned out. I use a 1/8" drill bit and it needs to be done about every 3 weeks for me to get constant performance. As I said, my skimmer has not overflowed in about 2 months now after setting my gate valve up like this.