Coral Beauty vs. Flame Angel

Andy O

Non-member
...and no, the subject line is not an advertisment for a pay per view fight between the two!

Aside from the physical appearance of either one, what are your thoughts as to hardiness, survial rate, reef safeness, etc with regard to choosing one or the other. I am looking to house in a 36 gallon reef with 45#live rock, LPS, SPS, and Soft.

I recently purchased a flame angel and within 24 hours of getting him home he died of ich in my quarantine tank. I don't know if this makes a difference but I have a royal gramma with ich in my display tank. He has had it for over 6 weeks now and seems to come and go and he shows no sign of struggling with the ich unlike the flame who went straight down hill in the QT.

I really like the flame angel but am I making a mistake trying it again. Some people have said, and I know it goes against saltwater 101, that it can be best to just put the flame angel into the display tank right away and that sometimes it can be the stress of the quarantine that does them in.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
I've had a Coral Beauty for a few months now and it's a perfect citizen so far.(knock on wood!) I have softies, lps, sps, and clams. I also don't quarentine my fish. I think it stresses them out too much, although there are alot of people that would disagree with me in a big way. I've put fish in with "spots" and they've gone on to be healthy and thriving, and the spots go away. I've had bad experiences with qt tanks for fish. I think a healthy reef is a much better environment for a fish to heal, IMO, IME.
 
don't buy the hoopla that quarantine tanks are death traps...Unfortunately, i have 4 qtanks running now 55-5g.
properly prepared and monitored (sounds similiar to any tank doesn't it) they are a great benefit.

normally the ich parasite is not a fast killer..it would need to heavily infest the gill area, thus suffocating the fish.. that would need to go unnoticed for over a week, IMO. i have been dealing with ich for 1/2 this year so far.
oodinium on the other hand can wipe a tank out within 3 days.

i actually like the look of the cb better if it has more yellow.
in regards to reef safe..most say 50/50 on the flame, however i have noticed of those that make that claim, indicate that their flame has not touched anything since they have had it. i think clams are the biggest threat.

if your interested in a fat healthy flame let me know.. we had one as of Wed.
 
Last edited:
I have went against the saltwater 101 (2 times) for I have both a CB and a Flame in my 75. I love both of them that is a hard call to pick one. They are both about the same size so I would go with ....what other fish are you planning if they are mostly orange and yellow I would go with the CB if most of the fish are blues and purples then go with the flame to get some contrast in your tank.
Possible solution
If it was me I would take the other sick fish and put him in a medical tank until no signs have been present for some time and treat the main tank if possible or wait to put any fish into the main tank until the problem has passed..................


Here is some info I grabbed from wetwebmedia quickly I hope it helps

The Real Deal: Treating Fishes in Isolation, Allowing the Main System to "Go Fallow"

There are no "reef-safe" and effective treatments for crypt. NONE. Curing infested fishes involves separating them from non-fish livestock and treating them in that other system (or alternatively moving the non-fish livestock). Infested systems can be made "crypt-free" or better "crypt-virulence-reduced" by having them kept free of fish hosts for several (4 or more) weeks without fishes. If practical, elevating temperatures and possibly lowering specific gravity (to the tolerance of other non-fish livestock) can be employed to "speed up" the loss of virulence of the parasites. In practical terms we are generally talking the low to mid 80's F. and 1.017-1.018... with these values adjusted over days time. Care must be exercised in not possibly transmitting disease organisms from the quarantine system... on nets, containers, hands... anything wet, and drying, otherwise sterilizing quarantine tanks and gear between uses.

About Ultraviolet Sterilizers:

UV's cannot effect an actual "cure", though they do seem to do so in some cases where slight improvement in the overall system water quality may tip the balance between health/disease in the fishes side. Otherwise UV use can significantly reduce the number of free-swimming tomites. An initially improved situation is often perceived in initial infestations with a synchronized population of adults cycling off their hosts (every 3 to 7 days)... only to resurface in great numbers due to the confines of captivity.

About "Crypt Free" Systems:

There are such things, but unless the aquarist is diligent in altogether excluding these parasites through quarantine, treatment outside their main displays, most aquariums will instead host latent infestations... with discernible populations of Cryptocaryon coming to be through environmental challenge/s to their fishes. In actual fact cysts of Cryptocaryon can stay viable for a few to several months, hence ultraviolet sterilization, use of biological cleaners, allowing systems to go fallow... only decreases the number and virulence of these parasites. Once in a system, the system itself is infested and the only practical means of control becomes providing an optimized and stable environment.

In Closing:

Pandemics of saltwater ich have waxed and waned during the entire history of the captive marine hobby. It is likely that these infestations account for a large percentage of hobbyist attrition. This is regrettable and avoidable by simple quarantine procedures and adherence to a reliable treatment protocol. Isolation of fish livestock, hyposalinity and elevated temperature, administration of copper medication with testing will cure all but the most entrenched cases.
 
Andy O said:
...and no, the subject line is not an advertisment for a pay per view fight between the two!
That's good. I believe a very large system is required to keep two together. The odds of a conflict arising in a four foot tank are extremely high, and I believe the odds of a conflict in even a six foot tank are also pretty good. Nonetheless, I know of two reef keepers who have kept both in a 120gal:eek:
Andy O said:
...Aside from the physical appearance of either one, what are your thoughts as to hardiness, survial rate, reef safeness, etc with regard to choosing one or the other. I am looking to house in a 36 gallon reef with 45#live rock, LPS, SPS, and Soft.
I have kept both succesfully *knocks on wood* Sadly, my Coral Beauty died from stress when I moved from my 55gal system to my 90gal system.

Conventional wisdom says that the coral beauty is hardier and more reef safe than the flame angel, but as with all dwarf angels in my experience, personalities and habits vary wildly. Therefore, it is possible to find flame angels that are hardier and coral beauties that are less reef safe.

Hardiness is an easy personality trait to select for. The only acceptable option for selecting with hardiness in mind (or, in my opinion, the only acceptable option for buying fish in general) is to find a trusted LFS, preferably a sponsor, and have them order one for you. For those of you reading, no matter how tempting it appears, never walk into a chain pet store and buy a dwarf angel out of their tanks. The next step would preclude that option regardless.

Once you find a trusted LFS, ask them to hold the fish for 3-4 weeks while it recovers from the stress of shipping. In that time, a fragile fish simply would not thrive (and the need for the LFS to replace it is incentive for them to not order one from a skethcy source). Moreover, you can have the opportunity to observe the fish before you bring him home. Is the fish easily spooked? Is the fish eating prepared food? Dwarf angels range in personality from rather outgoing to somewhat shy and retiring. Rarely do they enjoy open spaces, and never stray too far from the rockwork. Still, your swarf angel should be actively crusing around the rock at the LFS tank, and not be so easily startled that you think the fish is going to jump out of its skin. Those, in my opinion, are signs of bad personality traits. Captivity requires a certain degree of boldness in a dwarf angel.
Andy O said:
...I recently purchased a flame angel and within 24 hours of getting him home he died of ich in my quarantine tank. I don't know if this makes a difference but I have a royal gramma with ich in my display tank. He has had it for over 6 weeks now and seems to come and go and he shows no sign of struggling with the ich unlike the flame who went straight down hill in the QT.
The fact that the flame angel perished in under 24 hours is indicative of any number of disreputable handling practices on the part of the supply chain. It is also possible for you to have inadvertantly killed the fish that fast, but not via ick. Possibilities include:
  • copper poisoning -- even if you did not use copper, your LFS or the supplier might have. In my experience, dwarf angels are very sensitive to copper, and can be killed by it within 24 hours.
  • cyanide poisoning, which usually takes weeks to take its toll, so it is unlikely the cause.
  • the quarentine tankw as not properly cycled, and the introduction of a high waste producing fish such as a dwarf angel created an ammonia spike, which in turn poisoned the fish
  • Physical injury to the fish during the supply process
  • Weakness of the individual specimen and an inability to cope
  • Improper acclimation
  • Or any combination thereof.
Was the fish eating at the LFS? That may shed some light on whether your handling, or the supply process was to blame.

As far as reef safety goes, again, it depends on the fish. Sometimes, a fish will go from not touching a coral to devouring it, and they never switch back. My whole philosophy is to decide which you appreciate more, your fish or your corals. For me, I enjoy my corals, but I definitely run a fish-centered reef tank. I keep a large angel and a dwarf angel together. Because I know they can turn from reef safe to reef unsafe at any day, I keep no coral in that tank that I wouldn't mind having to get rid of. Remember, with these marginally reef safe fish like dwarf angels, when they safe not reef safe, that means that the fish may target specific corals (or just one coral) in your system (always the most expensive, of course). Dwarf angels aren't parrotfish, and aren't patently reef unsafe. If you do have a problem, there will probably be one target or one type of targets. For example, the dwarf angel is most likely to bother LPS corals of the three types (bothering SPS and soft corals is rare), and even amongst LPS, it may only like one specific type (open brains, but not torches or frogspawns), and even then it may be a mild nuisance rather than an all out coral killer. Just be sure that once you add a dwarf angel, you're going to have a hard time getting him out of there, and that you should be prepared to remove the target coral.
Andy O said:
...I really like the flame angel but am I making a mistake trying it again. Some people have said, and I know it goes against saltwater 101, that it can be best to just put the flame angel into the display tank right away and that sometimes it can be the stress of the quarantine that does them in.
Yes, this is true. And if it isn't the stress, an ammonia cycle can kill them as well. As for the ick, I assert that that is a symptom, and not a disease. A royal gramma with ick means that the fish is not capable of dealing with the ick parasite itself, and therefore, conditions in the tank are not optimal. I would work on improving conditions in the tank so that the ick resolves itself before adding the dwarf angel.
Andy O said:
...Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I hope this helps.

Matt:cool:
 
Last edited:
Thanks to both of you for your feedback.

I realize that most tanks have ich in them anyway and it is the stress that weakens the imune system and allows the parasite to take over. I have heard that the flame is more suseptable to ich -- is this true. Also, by putting the fish into a tank that I know has ich am I signing a death wish for the fish.
 
some of that info is accurate,,however some of it needs clarification
most notably:

"free of fish hosts for several (4 or more) weeks without fishes"
it should be (6 or more) based on typical lifecycle documentation.

"In actual fact cysts of Cryptocaryon can stay viable for a few to several months"
the longest reported cyst lasted for 72 days and that was in non-tropical waters.
the typical Tomont will remain for 3-28 days,,with peak time 4-8.
 
Andy O said:
...I have heard that the flame is more suseptable to ich -- is this true.
I'm not sure. I doubt it would make a difference, and I do not believe Ich resistance should govern anyone's purchasing habits. Perhaps the flame angel has that reputation because it is generally thought to be a notch less hardy...
Andy O said:
...Also, by putting the fish into a tank that I know has ich am I signing a death wish for the fish.
No, but by putting a fish into a tank with conditions that lead to outbreaks of ich, you are signing a death warrant.

I'm not saying your (or anyone's) conditions are bad.

I'm just saying that if none of the other fish show symptoms of ich, then there is a good chance that the fish you add will not show symptoms because the conditions are optimal.

Matt:cool:
 
Last edited:
Triggerfish said:
Matt-- nice post...
Thanks. I am a big fan of the angelfish, and am always trying to learn more about them. I have kept coral beauties and flame angels,

Matt:cool:
 
Andy O said:
I have heard that the flame is more suseptable to ich -- is this true. Also, by putting the fish into a tank that I know has ich am I signing a death wish for the fish.

IMO, neither is more susceptible than the other..given the fact that the parasite is present it will seek out either fish as a host.

by increasing the fish density of an infected tank,,you allow the parasite more opportunity to increase population. something that would not be optimal.
adding additional livestock to a known infested tank is just not the best option here.
 
Matt:

I currently have 2 false pecula, yellow watchman gobie, solorensis wrasse, 2 neon gobie, and the gramma. With the exception of the gramma, all appear to be ich free. The wrasse had a trace on his tail for a few days a while back but since them has been clean.

I probably should have noted previously that when I bought the gramma and had him in my QT he cam down with severe ich which I treated with copper and left him in the QT for 6 weeks before transferring. Not sure if this makes a difference.
 
Matt L. said:
I'm just saying that if none of the other fish show symptoms of ich, then there is a good chance that the fish you add will not show symptoms because the conditions are optimal.

basically if none of the other fish show symptoms of ich i.e white spots (Trophont stage) for 5-6 weeks than they can be considered to be ich free.
regardless of tank conditions, part of the lifecycle is visible.. whether it is seen or not is another story.
 
Andy O said:
Matt:

when I bought the gramma and had him in my QT he cam down with severe ich which I treated with copper and left him in the QT for 6 weeks before transferring. Not sure if this makes a difference.

the fish still may have been infected depending on:
what copper brand
how was it tested
duration of treatment
how long it was quarantined afterthe last spot was noticed
 
I used Sea Chem with the FastTest copper test kit. He was coppered for approx 10 days at a level of .2 and kept in the QT for just about 6 weeks after the last visible spot was seen by me.
 
Andy O said:
I currently have 2 false pecula, yellow watchman gobie, solorensis wrasse, 2 neon gobie, and the gramma.
I think I found a possible problem: I respectfully assert that that is already too many fish for a 36gal tank. Adding a dwarf angel would be very unwise.

I strongly suspect the stress caused by having too many fish around is what is leading to ich to persist, even if your other conditions are al optimal.

So in my opinion, no, do not add a dwarf angel, and even consider removing some of those fish to bring the sticking level down.

For comparison, I have a 90gal system, and I have two false perculas and a dwarf angel too, plus my majestic angel (who isn't much larger than the dwarf angel), and that is all.

Matt:cool:
 
Matt:

Thanks. I am definitely thinking of at least taking the Gramma out if I can ever catch him.
 
Andy O said:
I used Sea Chem with the FastTest copper test kit. He was coppered for approx 10 days at a level of .2 and kept in the QT for just about 6 weeks after the last visible spot was seen by me.

Cupramine manuf by Seachem? the recommended dosage with that product is .50 for 14 days.

or was is SeaCure.

either way, i believe most experts recommend treating for 3 weeks.
another note for future use. copper is very unstable during the initial 7 days of treatment. testing is needed at least 2x day with additional copper often needing to be added.
amazing though that the fish was in qt for almost 8 weeks and you saw nothing on the fish for the last 6. i'm thinking if that was the case the fish should have been clean.
 
For SeaCure I believe that they reccommended a dose of about .15. I was getting mixed opinions from people -- some would say that .15 was not enough and others would say that .20 to .25 was too much and would stress/kill the fish. I was testing at least once and sometimes 2 times a day. The problem with these kits is that the with the shade of color that you measure against the control it is so close that many times it is hard to really tell.

As surprised as you were about the spots coming back after 6 weeks clean I bet you can imagine what the explicatives I was saying when I noticed it.
 
yeah,,seacure is .15,,i was using that product with the seachem test kit..it was difficult to even get the copper to register on the kit. so i ditched it and just got the Cupramine.

but also, not matching manuf copper with kit could have been an issue.
most copper kits suck..even the seachem is very close with the sliding scale..but they give a test reagent that shows what the dosage level should look like..helps a bit.

ya sure you didn't miss nothing? damn that blows...
 
Back
Top