sdexcalibur1
Fish junkie
I have a 24 gal ap. and have a 90 gal tank I would like to use for the sump in the basement. Anyone have an idea of a fail safe method to do it. Need a way to make sure their will be no floods. EVER.
Fail safe sump idea
- Thread starter sdexcalibur1
- Start date
Most sumps are pretty fail-safe. Baffles in the sump set the water level in the sump. The only reason for the sump to flood, is when the pump is off and the overflow continues to drain water, so you want to set the baffles to a point where your equipment will work, but your sump wont overflow when the pump is off. So the issue is usually the overflow itself when it comes to flooding. If the drain gets clogged, the pump will pump all the water in the return section of your sump, which is usually a lot of water going into your tank. Its hard to explain without specific questions, so ask away 
One big thing is DON'T rely on check valves to prevent excessive back flow when the power goes out.
Also don't use HOB overflows, they can be pretty reliable, but if you do use one it will be the weak link.
Murphy's law loves us reefkeepers, but in 15 yrs of having tanks with sumps I have never had a flood because of the sump.
Also don't use HOB overflows, they can be pretty reliable, but if you do use one it will be the weak link.
Murphy's law loves us reefkeepers, but in 15 yrs of having tanks with sumps I have never had a flood because of the sump.
wish I could say the same
drill 2 drains, and only use one, or a turbo could put 75 gallons of water on your floor, as the drain will be blocked, and the return pump will empty your sump onto your floor.
another plan, have a float switch that will stop your return pump if the display tank level becomes too high
drill 2 drains, and only use one, or a turbo could put 75 gallons of water on your floor, as the drain will be blocked, and the return pump will empty your sump onto your floor.
another plan, have a float switch that will stop your return pump if the display tank level becomes too high
itz216
Non-member
sump
I had the same demand for my 72G / 30G sump on the 2nd floor - NO WATER on the floor ...EVER!
People here recommended over sized overflow - drill a pair for redundancy( I think I drilled 2 @ 2.5").
Then, I used that flexible modular pipe (Loc line) for my return. It allows me to adjust how much water empties into the sump from the display - before the siphon is broken by the return nozzle breaking the surface.
Then the trick is adjusting everything so that when you have a power failure your sump can safely handle the water that siphons back from the display.
I had the same demand for my 72G / 30G sump on the 2nd floor - NO WATER on the floor ...EVER!
People here recommended over sized overflow - drill a pair for redundancy( I think I drilled 2 @ 2.5").
Then, I used that flexible modular pipe (Loc line) for my return. It allows me to adjust how much water empties into the sump from the display - before the siphon is broken by the return nozzle breaking the surface.
Then the trick is adjusting everything so that when you have a power failure your sump can safely handle the water that siphons back from the display.
Planning and fore-thought.
The two major concerns -
Calculate how much water will flow back to sump during power outage and size the sump's leftover volume accordingly.
Size the sump's return chamber so that the pump will starve before over-filling the display. (in case of failed or blocked drain(s).)
These are very simple things to figure out and will make the system fail proof in these aspects.
The two major concerns -
Calculate how much water will flow back to sump during power outage and size the sump's leftover volume accordingly.
Size the sump's return chamber so that the pump will starve before over-filling the display. (in case of failed or blocked drain(s).)
These are very simple things to figure out and will make the system fail proof in these aspects.
dcforester1
Finally enjoying my tank
If you want no floods ever, maybe find another hobby. What I do in my system is like jay said. I have a high water alarm that will shut down my return ,and my topoff.
Good Luck Derek
What I do in my system is like jay said. I have a high water alarm that will shut down my return ,and my topoff.Good Luck Derek
Brid96
Non-member
Sorry for a slight detour but, Why not trust the check valve?
I would also appreciate not getting water all over my floor.
I have a pico tanks that I am working on. 3 gal display and 3 gal refugium (which will only have about 2 gal of water in it).
I will drill the bottom of the display tank and pump water into it from the base and have an overflow system for the return. The check valve is to prevent the main tank from dumping into the fuge in the case of power and/or pump failure (up through the drilled hole in the main tank).
My worst case is 2+ gallons on the floor but I am still Curious to hear your concerns.
Brian
A check valve may work for a while in saltwater, but sooner or later the sealing surfaces will become encursted with some life form and the seal will be compromised. If you remove and clean them frequently they SHOULD not fail. If you are a little slack on cleaning them, they WILL fail sooner or later. Summary, they WILL fail sooner or later. (some disagree, but that's my $.02 )
)
BiGGiePauls33
Current BRS President
Make sure you drill siphon holes near the upper most point on your return lines. This is a pretty failsafe method. When the water hits this siphon hole, it will suck in air and cause the water to stop being sucked back to the sump. I've never had a problem with this method, even while losing power all the time, while living on a 3rd floor. Good Luck!
MikeG
Non-member
Just keep the return high in the water so suction is stopped early and minimal water drains into the sump, the display will only lose about a 1/2"-1" of water and you don't have to rely on check valves holding the water from draining back. That is what most everyone does. Nothing to fail except for something getting stuck in the drain and for this I use strainers on the ends of them.
Right,
And the fail-safe or redundant safety for plugged drain(s) would be to design sumps' return chamber size / water level so that if the drain plugged anyway, the return pump would starve for water before the display overflows.
Nice to design a redundant safety that in no way relies on a mechanical or electric switch or device.
Damn Murphy and his silly laws...
And the fail-safe or redundant safety for plugged drain(s) would be to design sumps' return chamber size / water level so that if the drain plugged anyway, the return pump would starve for water before the display overflows.
Nice to design a redundant safety that in no way relies on a mechanical or electric switch or device.
Damn Murphy and his silly laws...
