Need help purchasing correct tools -- questions

[Coffee with Mango]

I know there are lots people on this forum with a lot of expertise -- whereas my experience is limited to my grade school shop classes! But I am up for a good challenge.

(1) When drilling my glass tanks, my drill has a speed option. I have watched videos on how to do this (with the plumbers putty water pool, etc.), but I am not sure if it is better to run the drill at high or low speed?

(2) I am building a basement sump system to run up to a display tank in my living room. I am planning to convert some old glass tanks to sump(s). I will be cutting acrylic sheets, acrylic rods, and lots of PVC pipes. I am looking at this portable table top saw that claims to do everything I think I need:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rockwell-Blade-Runner-X2-Portable-Tabletop-Saw-RK7323/205611390

Do you think this will work for my intended purposes?

(3) Can anyone think of other fish-tank-related uses for this type of table top saw that I can use to help justify the expense ($99)?

(4) What type of drill bit and speed is best for drilling acrylic and again, better to run at high speed or low speed?

Advice is welcome and needed. Thanks!

 

[JohnK]

Do you plan to actually build anything (water holding) from acrylic, or just baffles to go into glass sumps? I ask because if you will be scratch building sumps or anything that requires quality acrylic seams then you really want to be doing the finished cuts with a router.

For drilling acrylic, spade bits work OK for smaller sizes, or hole saws are good for about any size. Whatever you use, be careful drilling acrylic, if the material isn't clamped down securely and or you use a hand drill, it's very easy for the drill to bite into the material overly aggressively. When that happens, the drill can suddenly dig in, grab at the material and then potentially crack it, or worse start spinning the acrylic wildly which can lead to possibly serious injury to your hands or other body parts.

For drill speeds on glass, I Have a guide sheet that recommends drill speed depending on hole size. LMK the size holes you will be drilling and I can look up the recommendations.

For cutting PVC pipe just about anything works. I usually use a mitre saw because I have one handy, but a simple hand held hack saw is all you really need.

A table saw is good for rough cutting acrylic, cutting angles for little projects like probe holders, and all sorts of woodworking, but it's definitely to do all acrylic tool you might be hoping for. Everything nice I've built out of acrylic has been done using the router, clamps, corner clamps, and edge guides.

 

[Flame Angel]

If you are cutting PVC pipe I would pick up the special tool for doing that. I just find that with a hacksaw or table saw you could run into uneven or flush cuts (you may be fine if the saw comes with a gate/guide).

John has a lot of experience working with Acrylic.

Good Luck and post some pictures of your progress.

 

[Jim Tansey]

I think you would be better off having the acrylic cut by a supplier depending on what your using it for you may require an edge smoother than achieved by a table saw, some suppliers will do this for you. PVC pipe can cut with a hack saw. As for drilling the glass holes many drills the slow speed is too slow, also consider making a template and duct taping it to the glass it serves to hold the water and guide the bit I have a couple I could mail to you to use.

Jim

 

[Coffee with Mango]

..... the drill can suddenly dig in, grab at the material and then potentially crack it, or worse start spinning the acrylic wildly which can lead to possibly serious injury to your hands or other body parts.

..... but it's definitely to do all acrylic tool you might be hoping for. Everything nice I've built out of acrylic has been done using the router, clamps, corner clamps, and edge guides.

Serious injury to my body is, of course, something I am hoping to avoid. That shards might go flying was something I had not considered.... thank you for this warning .....

A hacksaw to cut pvc pipe is probably fine for you guys but I am a pitifully non-muscular female that could greatly benefit from the assistance of well-chosen power tools.

(1) I will be drilling (hopefully) 85 mm hole for a two inch bulkhead in glass.
(2) Several holes for 1" bulkheads in glass.
(3) I am not planning to make anything water tight with acrylic. I am hoping to make baffles and some small frag trays, some miscellaneous parts like two bars to put across the top of one of tanks, a few other bits and pieces.

 

[reefstarter]

When drilling acrylic, pic, fiberglass start the hole in reverse then switch and go slow

 

[Jim Tansey]

Serious injury to my body is, of course, something I am hoping to avoid. That shards might go flying was something I had not considered.... thank you for this warning .....

A hacksaw to cut pvc pipe is probably fine for you guys but I am a pitifully non-muscular female that could greatly benefit from the assistance of well-chosen power tools.

(1) I will be drilling (hopefully) 85 mm hole for a two inch bulkhead in glass.
(2) Several holes for 1" bulkheads in glass.
(3) I am not planning to make anything water tight with acrylic. I am hoping to make baffles and some small frag trays, some miscellaneous parts like two bars to put across the top of one of tanks, a few other bits and pieces.

Why do you need a two inch bulkhead?

Jim

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Why do you need a two inch bulkhead?

Jim

The external reeflo return pump I have has a two inch intake. Reeflo said I could use a 1.5 inch and adapt to a two inch, but since I have to drill a hole in the tank for either I thought I'd drill the two inch.

 

[Coffee with Mango]

What if I sandwich the acrylic between two pieces of plywood, firmly clamped. the top layer of plywood having holes already drilled as a template. While it could still crack, this should reduce the risk of shrapnel?

 

[Jim Tansey]

The external reeflo return pump I have has a two inch intake. Reeflo said I could use a 1.5 inch and adapt to a two inch, but since I have to drill a hole in the tank for either I thought I'd drill the two inch.

That's a big pump and OK but a lot of the newer system designs use a smaller return pump and rely on power heads in the display for increased flow. Be sure to size the bulkhead holes correctly don't go by nominal sizes (1 inch, 2 inch ect.)

Jim

 

[Coffee with Mango]

That's a big pump and OK but a lot of the newer system designs use a smaller return pump and rely on power heads in the display for increased flow. Be sure to size the bulkhead holes correctly don't go by nominal sizes (1 inch, 2 inch ect.)

Jim

I am estimating 20+ feet of head pressure to overcome. About 10 feet vertical, plus a few twists and turns. The pump is still more than enough for that purpose and I will have to restrict it. But maybe someday it will feed two tanks

 

[Jim Tansey]

Good Luck!!!!! If you need any help along the way holler....We have a lot of good people here.

Jim

 

[Coffee with Mango]

Everything nice I've built out of acrylic has been done using the router, clamps, corner clamps, and edge guides.

Do you use a hand held router or do you have access to an industry-quality machine?

 

[JohnK]

What if I sandwich the acrylic between two pieces of plywood, firmly clamped. the top layer of plywood having holes already drilled as a template. While it could still crack, this should reduce the risk of shrapnel?

Actually that ^ will work great. Sounds like you have an instinct for this stuff

I have a handheld craftsman router with a regular and a plunge base. No fancy industrial equipment here.

 

[Owen386]

Invest in a pvc cutter tool. A lot less effort than a hack saw or even table saw.

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