I was so happy to meet some of you at the last meetup. I've had a mixed reef tank for 3 yrs now (125 g), haven't introduced any new fish in at least a year, and am trying to focus on upping my coral game. I bought a bunch of small frags and a member was awesome at giving me so me great advice on placements as well as water parameters. I've been testing with API kits and have thought everything was going well. I haven't really dosed any chemicals based on those kits. But then I just bought Salifert kits and a Hanna checker for alkalinity - and they all read wildly different. Last water change was 1/3 volume on 4/24. I put in a poly resin filter and a phosphate filter into the Eheim (have Eheim and sump). 5/6 test with API: pH 8.2, kH 11, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10-20, phosphate 0.25-0.5 ppm, Ca 440 ppm. 5/6 test with Salifert: kH 16+(ran out of syringed reagent), Ca 500+,phosphate 3 ppm, magnesium 1470. 5/6 Hanna kH = 14.0. Salinity was 1.027. I added 5 g of RO water and tried to figure out what is the best to bring down alkalinity (but even with google I don't really know and it said having corals might bring it down?) Retested last night 5/15. API: pH 8- 8.2, kH 12-13, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, phosphate 2-4 ppm, Ca 460 ppm. 5/15 test with Salifert: kH 16+(ran out of syringed reagent), Ca 500+,phosphate 3 ppm, magnesium 1440. 5/6 Hanna kH = 14.1. Salinity was 1.026. Not good that I have 0 nitrate and will increase feeding to hopefully address this. Also ordered some SeaChem phos guard that I'd like to add to my eheim (the filter pad is most likely saturated at this point and leeching back out). Any help on how to bring down my kH and what I should be adding in general to keep these new corals (both SPS and LPS) happy would be so appreciated! I already have easier coral (lots of mushrooms, xenia, star polops, kenya tree) that seem happy (spreading) but some of one of the new ones died within the week and others don't look so great (the encrusting types).
Need help with test kits & water parameters
- Thread starter Kat&Matt
- Start date
SteveDola
Good Tings
I would never use API tests for any actionable changes. I like Salifert but if you want confirmation then I would take a sample of water to a LFS to check. Find one that uses good kits. (might charge).
If my tests were saying 15 dKH then I would do 20 % Waterchanges for the next mth to get the reading to under 12.
I dont use phosguard bc it strips too many trace elements. ALso dont like to change any level quickly.
If my tests were saying 15 dKH then I would do 20 % Waterchanges for the next mth to get the reading to under 12.
I dont use phosguard bc it strips too many trace elements. ALso dont like to change any level quickly.
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Perhaps I missed it, but it doesn’t sound like you’ve been adding anything to bring the alk up so high? (Any PH buffer ever added? That would explain it. Or do you use a salt that is very high in alk such as reef crystals?)
Without a source of all that alk, I would be all the more suspicious of test errors.
I agree that api aren’t great tests, and in general I much prefer Salifert (or hanna checker for alk - but for Ca or Mg).
*with the Salifert kits that use a 1 ml syringe, remember that you should be matching the plunger end with the gradients, and NOT the actual liquid. (The air bubble is included in the measurement because that exact amount of air is included when you draw up the reagent)
Without a source of all that alk, I would be all the more suspicious of test errors.
I agree that api aren’t great tests, and in general I much prefer Salifert (or hanna checker for alk - but for Ca or Mg).
*with the Salifert kits that use a 1 ml syringe, remember that you should be matching the plunger end with the gradients, and NOT the actual liquid. (The air bubble is included in the measurement because that exact amount of air is included when you draw up the reagent)
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No - I haven't added anything to the tank in a long time (maybe a year?) I was definitely worried about test errors too. I did mess up the Salifert at first - but then reread and did it from the plunger end (not the liquid). I've been using the red sea coral pro salt (commercial size from Amazon or buckets from LFS). I'll check what comes out of my RO system (never thought of that) to see where it's at and after I make my salt too. Thanks for the tips.
Is there anything to add to lower alkalinity? Or just water changes?
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Thanks so much for this advice! I will definitely bring water to my LFS next time I head that way. Is water changes the best way to bring alk down?
I haven't used the phosguard yet - is it better to just leave the system as it is? It's been creeping up for a little while now (I don't have a protein skimmer). Just want to make sure I give these corals the best chance for success!
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coralfishreef
Well-Known Member
RedSea black bucket should mix at around 11.5 - 12.5 dKH when mixed to 35 / 1.026 with the reading temp at 77 degrees.
The first thing I’d double check is salinity and temperature. Salinity test result might be showing lower than the actual value. Misreading could be from requiring calibration or temperature when taken.
The first thing I’d double check is salinity and temperature. Salinity test result might be showing lower than the actual value. Misreading could be from requiring calibration or temperature when taken.
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I’m wondering about elevated SG / test error there as well. That would be about the only other way to explain elevated alk.
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BiGGiePauls33
Current BRS President
You can use muriatic acid to help drop alkalinity. Do a Google search for it.
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