Ok to run just DI from your RO/DI?
- Thread starter jackie
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seasno
A.K.A. Craig Snow
Jackie:
Is your water supplied by a well? If so the 39 lb reading would be a normal pressure for a well pump/water storage tank set up. While some wellpump setups can be adjusted to a little higher pressure (~ 50 lbs) the best solution is for you to purchase a booster pump. I had a similar situation at my house with my well pump providing 45 lbs of pressure to the house...I purchased a booster pump and my system came right up to the specified GPM output of 60 gals/day. Most RODI systems require 70 + lbs of water pressure to force the water through the membrane, the tempurature of the water also plays a role in how quickly water is processed through the RODI system.
Is your water supplied by a well? If so the 39 lb reading would be a normal pressure for a well pump/water storage tank set up. While some wellpump setups can be adjusted to a little higher pressure (~ 50 lbs) the best solution is for you to purchase a booster pump. I had a similar situation at my house with my well pump providing 45 lbs of pressure to the house...I purchased a booster pump and my system came right up to the specified GPM output of 60 gals/day. Most RODI systems require 70 + lbs of water pressure to force the water through the membrane, the tempurature of the water also plays a role in how quickly water is processed through the RODI system.
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jackie
Non-member
seasno said:
You did ask me that, sorry. Yup, we have a well. Funny though, I ran the unit from the kitchen sink and moved it to the bathroom sink (not a good thing if you forget to take it offline and your brushing your teeth and dressed for work
) and the pressure seemed higher but fluctuated so much between 50 and 40 that it wasn't worth it. It took 6 hours to make 5 gallons of water! So yes, a booster pump would make my life a littler easier
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seasno
A.K.A. Craig Snow
The well pump systems have a "range" that they opperate in....for example...when the pressure in the system drops to say 40 psi the pump kicks on and builds the pressure up to say 50 psi then shuts back off again. That could explain the differences you were experiencing.
Are you at home today? Or at work...
Got a washing machine nearby? Try it there (although I think you'll need another adapter.)
When we wet up ours, we weren't quite sure on where we wanted to locate it. So, as a temp install, we got a splitter for our cold water valve on the washing machine. Had to get a special garden hose adapter thingy, but....
Anyway...the water pressure coming out of that washing machine valve is A LOT more than comes out of the kitchen faucet. Plumber even made mention of it. Said he could "fix-it." Translation....$$$$$....
You've got a double whammy going on there.....cold water and low pressure. Makes for slooooooooowww RO/DI production, but 6 hours to make 5 gallons, that is really slow. I know Darren was whining about Ro/DI output once he got off Manchester water and got a well. (j/k about the whining but he did mention it) I can fill up a large brute container (about 35 gallons?) in about 12hrs. Far cry from the 100gpd output I am supposed to get, but better than what you've got.
FWIW...our well cycles at 30-50 psi.....on at thirty/ off at 50...so...if you've got 39 psi, you should be getting better production than what you've got. JMO, though.
Got a washing machine nearby? Try it there (although I think you'll need another adapter.)
When we wet up ours, we weren't quite sure on where we wanted to locate it. So, as a temp install, we got a splitter for our cold water valve on the washing machine. Had to get a special garden hose adapter thingy, but....
Anyway...the water pressure coming out of that washing machine valve is A LOT more than comes out of the kitchen faucet. Plumber even made mention of it. Said he could "fix-it." Translation....$$$$$....
You've got a double whammy going on there.....cold water and low pressure. Makes for slooooooooowww RO/DI production, but 6 hours to make 5 gallons, that is really slow. I know Darren was whining about Ro/DI output once he got off Manchester water and got a well. (j/k about the whining
but he did mention it) I can fill up a large brute container (about 35 gallons?) in about 12hrs. Far cry from the 100gpd output I am supposed to get, but better than what you've got.FWIW...our well cycles at 30-50 psi.....on at thirty/ off at 50...so...if you've got 39 psi, you should be getting better production than what you've got. JMO, though.
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jackie
Non-member
Unfortunately, I"m at work.....
I did turn the hot tap on really low to help cut the cold, but I don't pay for the hot water (elec) and I feel guilty letting it run for so long.....everywhere I turn there's a barrier of some kind.
I thought about the washing machine, we actually have 2 hooked up. I would imagine that since the water doesn't have to travel as far it would work at a higher pressure. Hmmm, will have to give it more thought...
I did turn the hot tap on really low to help cut the cold, but I don't pay for the hot water (elec) and I feel guilty letting it run for so long.....everywhere I turn there's a barrier of some kind.
I thought about the washing machine, we actually have 2 hooked up. I would imagine that since the water doesn't have to travel as far it would work at a higher pressure. Hmmm, will have to give it more thought...
seasno
A.K.A. Craig Snow
Jackie...they do design the systems that way so they don't overwork the pumps.
Water pressure isn't so much a function of distance as it is of elevation...just like with our aquarium pumps...the higher you try to push the water the less output/pressure. The size of the water line can also have an inpact on the volume/pressure....typically washer hookups have 1/2 " supply lines, while sinks are 3/8".
HTH
Craig
PenMan
Non-member
Interesting article by our Dr. Randy on RO/DI units!. This is in this months Reef Keeping
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm
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jackie
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Cool article, I'll have to print it out....
Quote from Randy's article: "If there is excessive carbon dioxide in the source water (such as well water), you might consider degassing the water first to remove some of the carbon dioxide, and thereby reduce the rate of depletion of the DI resins. Note, however, that this option is not inexpensive, and typically involves repressurizing the water with a pump. "
carbon dioxide in well water??? how on earth can you tell? and how do you do that? Where's Greg, help
Quote from Randy's article: "If there is excessive carbon dioxide in the source water (such as well water), you might consider degassing the water first to remove some of the carbon dioxide, and thereby reduce the rate of depletion of the DI resins. Note, however, that this option is not inexpensive, and typically involves repressurizing the water with a pump. "
carbon dioxide in well water??? how on earth can you tell? and how do you do that? Where's Greg, help
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