Quarantine tank sizing question

[mvallee]

I am getting ready to pull my surviving fish a 7-8" Dogface Puffer, Porcupine puffer about 5-6", Longhorn cowfish 2.5", Blue Hippo tang 2", Naso Tang 6", yellow tang 4-5" and maybe a pajama cardinal if it survives from my 180 to run fallow for 3 months to rid the ich that I have, I currently have a 29 gallon QT tank up and cycled but I don't think that is going to be big enough for all these fish especially if they become healthy and start growing.

I also own a 40 gallon breeder that was used as a FW tank so I could split the fish up or I could go with one larger QT tank. I can get my hands on a 72 bow RR or a 90 gallon standard tank not RR for short money, and with very little money get either up and running.
here are my questions;
- How much work is a QT tank with literally no Bio filter because it will be in Hypo for 2 months with fish in it is this going to be daily water changes, twice weekly, weekly
- I have to assume bigger is better to keep parameters stable am I missing something, something I am not taking into consideration?
- I would have to buy lots of water as my RODI would take too many days to fill it or could I use filtered and treated tap water for a QT tank, just to get it started?

filtration I have a couple large Canister filters previously used in Freshwater tanks sitting in my cellar one is a Fluval FX5 rated at 900GPH and a rena XP3. my current QT tank is running a marineland penguin 200 and a Large sponge filter rated for 40 gallons so I could support the 2 tanks but for three months would it be easier with one bigger one? almost leaning towards the 90.

Appreciate opinions from anyone who has pulled this off and took the time to read my long winded posts .
Thanks

 

[PSU4ME]

Just my thoughts:

Bigger is better as it will keep it more stable.
QT'ing for the long with a diminished bio filter will require frequent water changes....as soon as you detect ammonia its time. Make sure to siphon out uneaten food.

You can probably use water from your DT - I know it has ich in it but it will die during the treatment and using that water will be less stressful to the fish.

Using hypo requires you to be dead accurate with your salinity - have a good refractometer and calibrate it often through the process.

 

[mvallee]

I have what I think is a good refractometer but I find I only get a defined line when I am using a window as a light source house lights seem to make it a fat line it is the JBJ C Scope Refractometer with ATC. I have calibrated with RODI water. Think that is good enough, should I be buying a second to keep them honest?

I am so disgusted with my DT having ich that I am going full quarantine during the Fallow period in my tank and hypo in the QT, separate buckets, nets everything I can have two of I am and no sharing water once it's set up.

 

[phg1960]

As stated, bigger is better in this case. You could use the two tanks available and split the fish between them. I don't think it is really necessary to use RO water in this case, unless your water is really bad.

 

[JohnK]

Interestingly enough, for refractometer calibration, for testing seawater it's best to use a seawater standard solution. For testing near freshwater RODI or Distilled is prefered. If you will be doing an actual Hyposalinity treatment (1.008-1.009) RODI or distilled is closer so that would be preferable over a saltwater standard. If you do the semi hypo (1.017 in the display) that we talked about the other day, then that's closer to NSW SG so a seawater standard would be preferred.

Article on refractometers, calibration, and how to DIY a seawater standard solution for calibration.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/rhf/


About the light needed to get a good refractomter reading, I find that I only see the line clearly and consistently when I look straight into a florescent shop light (bright and direct, probably similar to what you described when looking out a window into sunlight) I'll guess your refractometer is fine, just a question of what will be best to use to calibrate it.


And Yes I agree with the others, biggest thing that you can manage reasonably is best. If you have space, try the for sale threads here and or craigslist for a cheap old tank to use.

 

[mvallee]

I hope I don't regret asking PHG1960 but what the heck is your profile picture.

I was thinking fish only and only temporary situation tap water could be fine, I have been using it for years for my Cichlids and have had some pretty sensitive fish, actually still have 2 tanks of tanganyika cichlids going right now

 

[phg1960]

That's a blobfish. Sort of looks like me. Except I wear glasses.

When I was keeping an FO tank, I only used tap. Phosphates were on high side, but the fish didn't seem to mind.

 

[mvallee]

Thanks John interesting article, at least parts of it ;-) but I did get a few things out of it that you were referring to in your post.

Curious John do you have thoughts on using tap water to setup a QT tank assuming I have decent water and it is chlorine and not chloramine and using a chlorine neutralizer

 

[mvallee]

Did you keep a blob fish looks freaky

 

[mvallee]

Bought a 90 gallon tank last night and will be setting it up this weekend as my QT tank to go Hypo in. I have some filter options thinking of going with the big canister I have, a Fluval FX5 but not a lot of time to seed any media. I have Ceramic media rings maybe a cups worth in the DT some PVC pipes and elbows in the DT SUMP and then a large air driven sponge filter seeded. I hope that's enough to get the Bio filter started even though I know most will die off some of it will remain active and alive from what I have read.
The FX5 holds almost 5 gallons of water and has sponge prefilters and three large chambers for media. being in Hypo for 2 months what should I run. some type of ammonia absorber, carbon, purigen I have some rubble from my sump I could put in as well but at 900GPH flow and the fact I am going hypo I don't think it would be worth it. plus in trying to rid Ich or whatever it is should I run any sponges in the filter at all just trying to think of where the little buggers could hide and possibly live through the hypo.

appreciate any suggestions