Tank cover and led slpashguard

Tank cover and led splashguard

Hi

Lately I have been working with acrylic pretty extensively. Like many of the advanced reefers, I built many modules for my sump system. Some I am patenting soon.

I use that thickness material most of the time since I can get it at Home Depot. (more like .220 thick)

The problem will be horizontal bowing from the heat. I just made a lid for my 10 gallon Q-tank and it is bowing even with the bracing attached,. so I will straighten it out and add a few more strips as stiffeners.

You can use that thickness but make a rectangle frame 75% smaller than the cover and glue it down using your Weld-on adhesive. the frame should be about 1 inch deep.
 
From what I have read and experienced the bowing is actually more from water absorbtion, more on the wet side hence the bowing. Some reccomend just regularly flipping acrylic covers over.

Personlly I would not do the acrylic cover, I'd either go glass or screen. That said, I wouldn't want to cut the gas exchange and evaporation rate, so I'd go screen or nothing.

As for the LED splash guard, I would want that attached to the fixture so that it would pick up less salt spray.

For any of this the acrylite GP would work fine, but so would cheaper extruded material.
 
Hi

Lately I have been working with acrylic pretty extensively. Like many of the advanced reefers, I built many modules for my sump system. Some I am patenting soon.

I use that thickness material most of the time since I can get it at Home Depot. (more like .220 thick)

The problem will be horizontal bowing from the heat. I just made a lid for my 10 gallon Q-tank and it is bowing even with the bracing attached,. so I will straighten it out and add a few more strips as stiffeners.

You can use that thickness but make a rectangle frame 75% smaller than the cover and glue it down using your Weld-on adhesive. the frame should be about 1 inch deep.

Thanks. There are multiple thicknesses that I could buy of that acrylic, it is a drop down menu with different options. I would prefer to just get the size cut to what I need and not worry about any diy work.

From what I have read and experienced the bowing is actually more from water absorbtion, more on the wet side hence the bowing. Some reccomend just regularly flipping acrylic covers over.

Personlly I would not do the acrylic cover, I'd either go glass or screen. That said, I wouldn't want to cut the gas exchange and evaporation rate, so I'd go screen or nothing.

As for the LED splash guard, I would want that attached to the fixture so that it would pick up less salt spray.

For any of this the acrylite GP would work fine, but so would cheaper extruded material.

Oops, I forgot, lexan / polycarboante will not be so prone to water absorbtion as acrylic.

See post #15;
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2134761

Thanks for the tips. What would be best to let light through?

Chris if your ever around I can hook you up with this for your led splash shield


http://www.bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?89540-3mm-ACRYLIC-FOR-SALE&highlight=

Thanks. Will get in touch with you if I am ever that way and need some.
 
None of the different materials should cause a lot of light loss as long as it's kept clean.
 
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