Waterbox destroyed me again… *EMERGENCY*

Do you know if the bulkhead that is on the emergency has any wiggle room in the hole of the glass? You could just push the bulkhead over towards the back if you did.

A great suggestion, (and if you're concerned, as long as the overflow box doesn't leak, it doesn't really matter if the standpipe leaks a little. The overflow box would drain with the power off, but the tank wouldn't)
 
If you know any electricians, they use an electric sock for heating and bending PVC for use as conduits. You could simply curve the pipe away from the weirs. Being new to setting up an overflow I think your idea to get someone at your house is probably your best move. Many LFS places offer aquarium service, you might want to have one come your house and get you straightened out.
 
You could throw an elbow in the emergency drain and aim it backwards. No glueing needed. Maybe drill an air breather hole on the top of the elbow fitting.

Or..

Cut the pipe down lower in the box and use a 45° coupling down low, small piece of pvc in between another 45° coupling, and move the pipe a couple inches in any direction you want. Just dry fit them you don't need to glue them inside the overflow if they fit tight enough...
 
Agreed. And if space is an issue, I’ve had good luck cutting down PVC sockets to reduce the amount of space needed. * keep in mind if the PVC is metric you probably will have to order the parts, I have yet to find metric anywhere local.

(if the cut down PVC fittings needs a visual LMK and I’ll create one and post it)
 
If you know any electricians, they use an electric sock for heating and bending PVC for use as conduits. You could simply curve the pipe away from the weirs. Being new to setting up an overflow I think your idea to get someone at your house is probably your best move. Many LFS places offer aquarium service, you might want to have one come your house and get you straightened out.
Agreed. And if space is an issue, I’ve had good luck cutting down PVC sockets to reduce the amount of space needed. * keep in mind if the PVC is metric you probably will have to order the parts, I have yet to find metric anywhere local.

(if the cut down PVC fittings needs a visual LMK and I’ll create one and post it)
If you know any electricians, they use an electric sock for heating and bending PVC for use as conduits. You could simply curve the pipe away from the weirs. Being new to setting up an overflow I think your idea to get someone at your house is probably your best move. Many LFS places offer aquarium service, you might want to have one come your house and get you straightened out.
Well. I personally dont know anyone. But if anyone from here willing to come to my house and help me fix this issue. I would never forget this favor. And im willing to pay gas, uber, or whatever. And + im willing to pay also at home extra for the work with a smile on my face.

Im new to the hobby. This is my second tank, as the first tank i sold as i couldn’t control the algae in it. Im determined, im willing to learn, but having nobody around to guide me is tough, i spoke to all things aquatics as i bought the tank from him. And he was nice to have one of his technicians telling me what to do on the phone so i dont get charged a home visit. Im located in somerset, mass. And im willing to pay for everything.

My plan was to buy a 40mm coupler, cut it, and add increase the height for the emergency pipe.
 
Agreed. And if space is an issue, I’ve had good luck cutting down PVC sockets to reduce the amount of space needed. * keep in mind if the PVC is metric you probably will have to order the parts, I have yet to find metric anywhere local.

(if the cut down PVC fittings needs a visual LMK and I’ll create one and post it)
And i also found pictures im going to use as proof when waterbox contact me for the claim that their plumbing drilled to the front. I found pictures i took for the overflow when the tank was dry and i didnt know they are on my phone. Take a look for yourself the plumbing almost touching the front. Im not an engineer but i know for a fact that emergency pipe need to be drilled to the back as they left a lot of space. How in the world they expected to sell me a tank with the emergency pipe almost sticking to the front overflow box and have the audacity to tell me “dial the gate valve”
 

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Agreed. And if space is an issue, I’ve had good luck cutting down PVC sockets to reduce the amount of space needed. * keep in mind if the PVC is metric you probably will have to order the parts, I have yet to find metric anywhere local.

(if the cut down PVC fittings needs a visual LMK and I’ll create one and post it)
I dont know why it shows you replied but then i click to see your comment and it doesnt show anything. Anyway i can see your reply in my email but not here

Thats not 2 emergency drains. The one on the right is where the water returne return pump it connect to the T pipe above it. Middle one is my main drain pipe, and the left one 40mm is the emergency pipe.

Im getting a 40mm coupler today delivered by bulk reef supply. Im going to cut it down to 1” and try to raise the emergency pipe assuming somebody here can take my offer, and come to my house to help me fix it that would highly be appreciated.
 
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I had asked a question but then realized the answer myself so deleted my post / question. Sorry that was confusing.

did you ever try deflecting the water where it’s making the noise? Sort of ironically, if that were to work you could trim that coupler to make a nice, more permanent deflector.

Assuming you do raise the emergency standpipe, keep in mind that height is your emergency level, so don’t go too high. Also, as previously state, don’t glue / cement anything while you’re tinkering, that way you can keep tinkering if adjustments are neede.

FWIW I would offer to come there to help, but I’m a bit far and work busy.
 
I had asked a question but then realized the answer myself so deleted my post / question. Sorry that was confusing.

did you ever try deflecting the water where it’s making the noise? Sort of ironically, if that were to work you could trim that coupler to make a nice, more permanent deflector.

Assuming you do raise the emergency standpipe, keep in mind that height is your emergency level, so don’t go too high. Also, as previously state, don’t glue / cement anything while you’re tinkering, that way you can keep tinkering if adjustments are neede.

FWIW I would offer to come there to help, but I’m a bit far and work busy.
Oh yes for sure. All i need is less than an inch literally. Thats all i need.
 
I had asked a question but then realized the answer myself so deleted my post / question. Sorry that was confusing.

did you ever try deflecting the water where it’s making the noise? Sort of ironically, if that were to work you could trim that coupler to make a nice, more permanent deflector.

Assuming you do raise the emergency standpipe, keep in mind that height is your emergency level, so don’t go too high. Also, as previously state, don’t glue / cement anything while you’re tinkering, that way you can keep tinkering if adjustments are neede.

FWIW I would offer to come there to help, but I’m a bit far and work busy.
Btw that defelector works its just the problem with it witn the tank height as its it making it hard for me to see where the water level is behind it. I am not goig to glue the coupler, im just going to shove it there permanently
 
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Sounds good. Keep us posted on how it goes.
btw: i noticed that coupler i ordered would make my intake for the emergency smaller? Is it safe to still use it? DN40 (40mm to 1-1/4") Metric to Standard PVC Coupler - Slip X Slip its going to make my emergency pipe smaller.. is that a dangerous game im playing?
 
That will only be a small difference, and shouldn't be an issue at all.

Keep in mind, that's actually an adaptor to go metric to English, so you don't want to cut your stand pipe in half and then try to join the two halves. You'll either cut it, and then use a section of English sized 1 1/4" pipe for the top section, OR just cut down the pipe you already have, and then use the coupling as the top few inches.
 
That will only be a small difference, and shouldn't be an issue at all.

Keep in mind, that's actually an adaptor to go metric to English, so you don't want to cut your stand pipe in half and then try to join the two halves. You'll either cut it, and then use a section of English sized 1 1/4" pipe for the top section, OR just cut down the pipe you already have, and then use the coupling as the top few inches.
I couldnt cut the coupler im literally in tears right now went to home depot, bought hand saw stilll
ant cut it. So nobody here can come and help me? I also have my return pipe lose, and i literally live alone so i cant tighten it. I beg someone to come ill pay
 

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Hacksaw, or a miter saw (if you can find a safe way to hold the fitting while you cut it.)
 
What tools do you have? Dremil maybe? Drill?

I’d try to prod someone closer to pay you a visit but I don’t know anyone in that area anymore and Jeremy closed the shop in Seekonk years ago.

Edit , adding; that dewalyt cutter you got woll probably cut the pipe. You could try shortening it and just placing the adapter/coupling on top.
 
What about asking OSA in Seekonk for assistance? I've never been to that location, but I know they sell waterbox out of their Coventry store.
 
Hacksaw, or a miter saw (if you can find a safe way to hold the fitting while you cut it.)
I finally got it cut took all the power in me . And it wasnt even flush cut it was like stairs of cuts it was a disaster cut
 
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