Where to get cabinet doors made?

[Mr. Slippery]

I haven't been on for a couple days sorry.. Somebody actually told me about Beaver Woodwork the other day but I haven't had time to go there. Oceanic is not helpful, I asked them that already and also about the stain color, but have not heard back. I've read that they never give out info about something that you want to build yourself, they want you to buy it from them. I thought about replacing all the doors but I have a feeling that I'm not going to be able to match the stain on the stand exactly, and would have to sand and restain the whole stand.

Greg, that looks really nice. What stain did you use? It looks like it matches very closely, but not exactly(maybe it's the light in the photo) Mine is ready for stain.

 

[delta]

its a poly stain have to check on the name but the finish is flater than the oceanic finish picks up light a little different and they sprayed the finish i brushed mine. you always have a variation between the two.
i might even be persuaded with frags to make your doors if you cannot find a shop to make them
if your so inclined

 

[delta]

heres the product i used Bombay Mahogany but i think the cherry is closer but i couldnt find it when i was looking i actually have some now and will do a test to see if it is closer
http://minwax.com/products/onestep/polyshades-color.cfm

 

[Mr. Slippery]

Very cool Greg. Let me know how it works out, I'm ready for stain.

 

[delta]

i will let you know

 

[delta]

the cherry wasn't even close but i will take a pic of the door stile and rail detail and the bombay mahogany stain once it has 2 coats and is dry. I will do a side by side pic with my oceanic doors to see how different they look.

 

[delta]

ok well here is the stain on a quick oceanic door joint, i skipped the actual mortise and tenion but you get the idea just for visual appeal this is the bombay mahogany color

 

[delta]

Ok here is the joint you should be shooting for but in reality it would actually be mortise and tenon not the screw i have in the side

 

[Mr. Slippery]

Wow Greg I appreciate your time in doing this. That stain matches pretty close huh, just a little lighter. Maybe another coat and it will darken up some? I have zero experience dealing with wood stain, so I don't know how more coats affects the surface. Is that the gel or just a regular stain? Rag or brush?

 

[delta]

yes it is very close and you are right i never got around to puttign a second coat on its a poly-stain product by minwax i used the satin but i think oceanic uses a semi gloss or gloss here a pic of the satin can gloss i think is blue

 

[delta]

if you use this practice on scrap and use thin coats just enough to get even color any more and it will sag or drip

 

[NateHanson]

That's a tinted polyurethane Matt. I'd use a foam brush, or a china bristle brush.

If you're trying to match the gloss, you can simply rub out the finish with 600 grit SiCarb paper, and 0000 steel wool (for the non-flat parts like moulding), and then use a polishing compound, (either an automotive type paste or traditional powder like pumice or rottenstone). The steel wool/paper will take off hot spots and give everything a matte finish, then you polish it up with subsequently higher grits until you match the level of gloss you're after. It takes a little more time, but it gives a much smoother, and better feeling/looking finish than using a gloss finish, and skipping the rub-out step.

Nate

 

[delta]

also make sure you stir it well, the poly-stain that is

if you need the sample i made for color or to show the detail of the doors then let me know.
i am not to far from you and it may be helpful when trying to get someone to make the doors for you. its not perfect but will give them a good idea of what you are looking for