25 gallon Cube Build

[Intheflesh]

Picking up a 25 gallon cube this week to upgrade our 12 gallon nano. I spent the last week or so researching "out of the box" stands because I swore I would never build another stand again. We just moved into a new house, and have 9001 projects going on. I simply don;t have time to cut, glue, screw and stain another stand.

So yesterday I went to home depot and picked up a sheet of 3/4 birch, and some veneer edging. I have enough wood from this 1 sheet to build a stand for the 18" cube, and my 50 gallon rimless (36x18.... I do have to buy i more 1/4 sheet for the top, and I'm using left over ply from previous builds for doors. but that's not important right now.)

In about an hour, I got to here:

And finally, Bella is wondering WTF we moved her bed. She's a highly skeptical little doggie:

 

[Intheflesh]

I'm going to stain the outside of the stand a dark black-brown/espresso color to match the existing furniture. The inside of the stand will just bee sanded and coated with a clear poly. I kinda like the markings on the inside and didn't want to cover them.

So, plans for the tank:
25 gallon Mr. Aqua 18" cube (pick up this week)
Ghost overflow copy cat (need)
DIY Stand (90% - check)
Circulation- RW-4 (Check)
Lights- AI Prime (Check)
Return Pump - Sicce silent 0.5 or similar (need) - although I do have a mag 3 that I suppose would work, and the price is right lol
Skimmer - ? (need)
Sump- no idea

Also, I am going to tie this tank in to my Apex. I already have breakout box built for the ATO, and other functions. I just need a PM1 and some probes.

I'm calling this a "high tech K.I.S.S." build lol.

 

[Intheflesh]

Also- I plan on making a 'matching' stand for my 50 gallon. The stand it is on is functional, but ugly as sin. I've been sick of looking at it for the last year, and finally going to do something about it. I may get started on that tonight so that I can stain both stands at the same time.

 

[this is me]

Looks great!
I like the looks of Mr. Aqua tanks.

 

[Intheflesh]

Thanks!

Doing a bit of planning today during lunch. Looks like the ghost overflow copy-cat idea won't work. It is 8" wide, and It will interfere with the light mount for the the AI Prime. The tank is already drilled, so I will just use the holes as is.

 

[Intheflesh]

Quick Paint sketch for sump idea. I was thinking of a 5.5 gallon, but thats too narrow. I would like something with a foot print of 12w x 16L

Not sure if I am going to build, buy, commission, etc yet, but here's the basic idea:

 

[Intheflesh]

Picked up the tank last night. Ran into a slight problem... the tank is a little bigger than 18" DOH!!!!

So tonight, I am going to cut the top from the stand and make a new top that is 18-1/8" square and that should hopefully fix this issue.

 

[Intheflesh]

So here's where I am as of today:

To do list:
Build 'electronics' cabinet
Apply a few coats of Poly
Acquire Sump
install new overflow box
Oh yea, I need to build doors lol


In the meantime, ive also been building a new stand for my 50 gallon.
That will be another thread, but here's a preview:

 

[CAPSLOCK]

That's going to be a nice, tidy, compact setup when you've got it going.

Gotta love "approximate" dimensions on tanks...

 

[Intheflesh]

Thanks!

I was inspired by Elos stands on this build. I like the minimalistic look, and I also don't want wires everywhere.

I need to build an electronics cabinet for the cube like I have in the 50 gallon stand. I'm just not sure which way to orient it because I don't want it interfering with the sump

 

[Intheflesh]

Now the tank is pre drilled with a center over flow. The center over flow is going.

now I'm not sure if i want to do a right corner oriented overflow box like an Elos, or do away with the overflow box all together and use these:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewi...tent=RB31464&gclid=CN3z8vux8cUCFYaRHwod6KIAMQ

I will have <200 Gph flowing, so I dont think noise will be an issue. I would put 2 on the left hand corner (1 as an emergency), and the return via spa flex on the right hand side. The one thing that worries me if I do this is that the hole for the return will most likely be below the water line- so how do I prevent water from siphoning down the return when the system shuts down (planned or unplanned)

 

[CAPSLOCK]

the hole for the return will most likely be below the water line- so how do I prevent water from siphoning down the return when the system shuts down (planned or unplanned)

Put in loc line angled up closer to the surface (curve it up, and then aim the outflow back down).

 

[pbienkiewicz]

You can drill a small hole in the return line. This will allow air into the system if the power to the pump cuts out and this will stop the siphoning. Or you can get a swing check valve and attach it to the return line.

 

[Intheflesh]

Put in loc line angled up closer to the surface (curve it up, and then aim the outflow back down).

Loc Line! that's what I meant, not spa flex lol.

You can drill a small hole in the return line. This will allow air into the system if the power to the pump cuts out and this will stop the siphoning. Or you can get a swing check valve and attach it to the return line.

I am aware of the concept of this but my concern is I am not sure how to accomplish this when using the loc line and the return out put is underwater.

 

[Intheflesh]

Another thing-

My sump will be really small so I have to be careful about how much water will drain when the system is shut down.

 

[PSU4ME]

I think you would want the hole just below the water level so that as soon as it lost power the hole would break the siphon quickly. The only issue I see is that the lock line is movable and if you slightly bump it and the hole is further underwater, it's just that much more water it will siphon.

I usually see the hole drilled on fixed, over the back returns.

 

[Intheflesh]

I put an inquiry into a seller on RC who is selling a pair of these:

Kind of pricey for what they are IMO, but I think it would be the best (read: cleanest looking) non-overflow solution.

If he doesn't want to split up the pair, I think I will do the bulkhead strainers with an over the top return with an anti syphon hole (cheapest solution, but not necessarily the cleanest)

Option 3 is to move the center overflow to the corner. I am a bit hesitant to do this because there is already 1 hole on the bottom of the tank, and I don't want to turn the bottom this tank into swiss cheese.

 

[JasonandRay]

What was the issue with the center overflow?

I had bulkhead strainers for a little while, they're horrible at surface skimming and not quiet even with a reverse durso. I ended up with a glass holes kit and i like it.

Unless your sump is really tiny I think you are worrying way too much about the return. just drill the tank high for the return and angle loc line downwards and you will be fine. How close to the top do you intend to run your water line?

 

[Intheflesh]

In a nutshell: I don't like center overflows. It throws off the visual flow of the tank; doesn't look natural. Also, it takes up some prime space in the middle of the tank.

 

[Intheflesh]

Not much more accomplished, but I like posting pictures:

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this little compartment sits a few inches forward from the back, which allows room for plumbing. It will house a EB8, PM1, and Breakout box that will be controlled by the Apex on my main tank, plus a jebao controller. Everything fits. Barely lol.

I will probably cover it with a 'beauty board' made of acrylic or anodized aluminum to give it a finished look.