3d printer models
- Thread starter SteveDola
- Start date
Depends on what you're looking to do IMO.
Software: Fusion360 for design, and Cura for slicing, both are free for individual and small business.
Few comments:
- 3D printed materials typically aren't too clear so you'd probably want to incorporate glass/mesh, or somehow work around lights.
- most 3D printers are limited to prints <1x1x1' unless the person has a commercial printer but even then you probably can't do more than 2' without needing to break into multiple pieces/sections.
- Filament costs around $20/kg so there are some costs to prototype etc. so other options may be more economical.
IMO, I'd probably recommend a glass or window screen frame+mesh lid supported by 3D printed clips unless you have some custom lid design in mind that has special features. A 100% 3D printed nano tank lid is possible but IMO probably not practical in most circumstances.
Software: Fusion360 for design, and Cura for slicing, both are free for individual and small business.
Few comments:
- 3D printed materials typically aren't too clear so you'd probably want to incorporate glass/mesh, or somehow work around lights.
- most 3D printers are limited to prints <1x1x1' unless the person has a commercial printer but even then you probably can't do more than 2' without needing to break into multiple pieces/sections.
- Filament costs around $20/kg so there are some costs to prototype etc. so other options may be more economical.
IMO, I'd probably recommend a glass or window screen frame+mesh lid supported by 3D printed clips unless you have some custom lid design in mind that has special features. A 100% 3D printed nano tank lid is possible but IMO probably not practical in most circumstances.
D!GZ88
Non-member
I just got a printer myself and have been looking for aquarium related things to print. I havent found a lid yet but I thought these were interesting alternatives.
www.thingiverse.com
Modular Fish Guard Frame for 10 & 12mm glass by Benichelis
This is a frame i designed to save my fish from jumping out of the water. It's optimized for my Aqua Medic Xenia 100 with a direct surface of 100 x 65cm, 10mm side and back glasses and a 12mm front. Due to the modular design the parts can easily be combined for other dimensions. The parts are...
www.thingiverse.com
serwobow
Well-Known Member
I printed a lid for my refugium which is about 10" wide (wider than my printer can print) - had to print the lid in sections that slid together. The lid fits my tank and hold my lights perfect, and is customized for the space under the main display. The cool thing is, that once you make it, you realize other modifications you want to incorporate, so it becomes a fun customization process. Probably not cost effective, though...
I use Tinkercad for designing (free online), and have Dremel 3D printer, so I use their DigiLab 3D slicer (free download).
I use Tinkercad for designing (free online), and have Dremel 3D printer, so I use their DigiLab 3D slicer (free download).
mind
Non-member
Mechanical engineer here....I use www.onshape.com
You need to pay if you don't want your designs freely available to everyone, but it is a proper 3D parametric CAD .... Unlike the Autodesk offers.
Here is a link to the lid I did for my Red Sea 525XL tank: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e...renderMode=0&uiState=639dc8461d57f75dc2d9751a
Note that I have a small CNC router at home and machined the pieces out of polycarbonate, but you could use smaller pieces and 3D print them. Note the groove for the screen door mesh cord. Then I went to Home Depot and got mesh + retaining cord (might have gotten the clear mesh from Amazon... It was a few years ago!).
If you do print it, I recommend ABS as you can chemically fuse it together with acetone (nail polish remover, but get the unscented 100 percent one!) and also make the structure of each piece thicker using a bridge truss like design or the whole thing will be WAY too floppy if it is longer than a few feet in length! My polycarbonate version suffers from this a little
You need to pay if you don't want your designs freely available to everyone, but it is a proper 3D parametric CAD .... Unlike the Autodesk offers.
Here is a link to the lid I did for my Red Sea 525XL tank: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e...renderMode=0&uiState=639dc8461d57f75dc2d9751a
Note that I have a small CNC router at home and machined the pieces out of polycarbonate, but you could use smaller pieces and 3D print them. Note the groove for the screen door mesh cord. Then I went to Home Depot and got mesh + retaining cord (might have gotten the clear mesh from Amazon... It was a few years ago!).
If you do print it, I recommend ABS as you can chemically fuse it together with acetone (nail polish remover, but get the unscented 100 percent one!) and also make the structure of each piece thicker using a bridge truss like design or the whole thing will be WAY too floppy if it is longer than a few feet in length! My polycarbonate version suffers from this a little
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JPags
Well-Known Member
I have an Ender 5 plus. Its one of the biggest home format printers you can get at a reasonable cost its 350mm x 350mm and can print 400mm in height.
I use TInkercad for most stuff because its so simple and free and its all web based. I then use Ultimaker Cura to slice it and send it to the printer.
You can use Fusion or other tools but you need experience with them.
Look on Thing Verse and see if someone has already posted something close to what you need. You can actually take it right into Tinkercad and modify it
I use TInkercad for most stuff because its so simple and free and its all web based. I then use Ultimaker Cura to slice it and send it to the printer.
You can use Fusion or other tools but you need experience with them.
Look on Thing Verse and see if someone has already posted something close to what you need. You can actually take it right into Tinkercad and modify it
@SteveDola Microcenter in Cambridge has Ender 3 pro specials $100 for new customers. Older entry level printer but with a few cheap upgrades it works well.
100% check out thingiverse as there are plenty of good models for free or cheap. I have a few good Reef related ones I could send over if you wanted.
100% check out thingiverse as there are plenty of good models for free or cheap. I have a few good Reef related ones I could send over if you wanted.
Chris.sturgis
Well-Known Member
The Ender 3 pro is a great 3d printer with many options to upgrade components. Since the majority of parts we are printing related to aquariums are petg I would recommend upgrading the hot end like @Skmaiden previously mentioned. I upgraded mine to a Micro Swiss and wish I had done that on day one, also for petg prints you will want to use a glue stick on the stock magnetic plate. Other than that printing petg on a stock Ender 3 pro works well.
JPags
Well-Known Member
Hair spray ((My wife does not use it any more so I stole her can. 
) works wonders for sticking and much easier to apply than glue sticks. Just spray the bed with a thin layer and let it dry. I clean and re-do the bed ever few prints and it has been a great way to stop any prints from moving.
Im thinking of changing the bed to a flexible metal bed. I have not changed the hot end but might do that because I still get some issues with this printer
) works wonders for sticking and much easier to apply than glue sticks. Just spray the bed with a thin layer and let it dry. I clean and re-do the bed ever few prints and it has been a great way to stop any prints from moving.Im thinking of changing the bed to a flexible metal bed. I have not changed the hot end but might do that because I still get some issues with this printer
