Basement uneven wet floor stand ideas

~Flighty~

Now with more baby
What to do in my basement. I am putting in a tank in the basement that will have the same footprint as a standard 180. I want to build a stand that willsupport it, but the floor is uneven and is prone to flooding. Looks don't really matter, but long term strength , cheepness and buildability do.

Can I make a wooden stand and put it on cinder blocks and level it as I go? Is there a beter solution?
 
Have you used it? Is it good for a 2x8 area without roughing up the existing cement first? I guess I would have to build some sort of frame and pour it in to keep it from self leveling across the floor to the lowest spot, but then there is the problem of building a frame on an uneven floor and having it slurp out the gaps.
 
I'd put it on cement blocks (just go to the outdoor patio brick section of HD and get some 8x8x2" cement blocks, and build a 2x4 or 4x4 stand on that. (stronger and easier than "cinderblocks").

Probably easiest to level the blocks first with some stiff cement under them. Just push them down into the stiff mixed cement until they're all level with eachother. Then let it cure, and build a stand and set it on the pads. They'll keep the wood stand dry so it doesn't rot where it sits on your floor, and it'll be easier to build a straight stand, rather than trying to match it to the floor, or shim it.
 
Time and $ are the issue. Anyone know where I can get a cheep metal stand? I'm assuming that would be much more than the cost of wood.

Under stand storrage is not an issue either.
 
You are probably right Cindy. I never purchased a metal stand so I was not considering the extra cost, just figured it was easier and less worry as far as floods are concerned.
 
I built my stand out of PT 2 x 6's and 4x4's. Took a little fine tuning, but it's pretty level.
But then again, my tank is in-wall, so the stand isn't visible at all (and BOY IS IT UGLY!!)
 
you could build your stand,build it higher than you need then cut down each leg until you get the correct level height.Then frame the bottom of the stand at the lowest possible point.
Do you get me?
 
I don't think even pressure treated would be ok sitting on a wet floor all of the time, would it?
 
where are you building it in a lake:D

PT should be fine for intermittant wetness but sure you could put them on blocks if you wanted.
 
You can also use some insulation foam to take up the unevenness of the floor as long as it is not more than 1/4" from one side to the other. I like the above re-concrete method better.
 
You can also use some insulation foam to take up the unevenness of the floor as long as it is not more than 1/4" from one side to the other. I like the above re-concrete method better.

This does not work it is only works to reduce pressure point on a tanks without a framed tank along the bottom peice of glass.

It can be compressed and will at the same over the whole piece.
so even it appears to fill the void and hold a tank up it can and will eventually
compress at the same rate as the rest of the board.

not sure what you means about the flooding but if the flooding is enough to rot wood that is something you should probably deal with first. If not just use pressure treated as Liam stated earlier. That is if the floor is in good condition
but happens to be unlevel.
 
PT will be fine even if moist much of the time. Its rated for contact with wet earth all the time.

Liams idea of cutting the legs down would work quite well. What you do is build a stand with even legs, then put it on the spot where you want it, and shim each leg (just temporarily) until the stand is even and level (with no weight on it). Then take a small block of wood that's just a smidge taller than the biggest gap under a shimmed leg, and use it to trace a pencil line around the bottom of each leg. Then cut each leg along those "scribe lines", and the resulting legs will now perfectly match the uneven floor, without any shims.

Nate
 
hey i read the above and it seems you need my help, how far are you from gardner, im a mason and could lend a hand if you need
IMO i would go with concrete blocks for the footing and i would seal them salt does a number to concrete and so does constant water if you have a stone foundation i would use LOW expanding foam or hydrolic cement and make it wet enough to pour in the holes i use "drylock" its in the paint section of HD that will help with the water also if looks arent a big deal id use a garage floor paint for a sealer somthing impervious to water etc....
and let us kno how you won the battle
 
We're in Windham. You lost me a little with your suggestion of the foam etc.

The water is from the bulkhead door and stairs thing that has broken concrete and lets the water in during rain. We may also have some other foundation leaks, but I'm not sure if it is only from the door or not. I also spill and leave the rodi running a lot :eek:

I hadn't thought that is was that big of a deal, but we should probably seal the floor somehow I'm gathering.
 
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