-
******* To read about the changes to the marketplace click here
DIY Stand
- Thread starter aha24
- Start date
http://www.cnidarianreef.com
There is a button on the left on the homepage called stand/canopy...click it and see his project.
There is a button on the left on the homepage called stand/canopy...click it and see his project.
Liam
letting it grow
I am building an in wall stand for a 150 high and was planning using 4x4's,but i see cndarian only used 2x4's.
How do people join their lumber?i was thinking of using decking brackets.Has anyone done this or are good old mortice joints better?
(sorry ,not trying to hijack the thread,just figured this would be a good time to ask these Q's)
Liam.
How do people join their lumber?i was thinking of using decking brackets.Has anyone done this or are good old mortice joints better?
(sorry ,not trying to hijack the thread,just figured this would be a good time to ask these Q's)
Liam.
NateHanson
Non-member
Mortise and Tenon is ALWAYS better, but they have to be large if you use low-quality lumber. The brackets are ok I think, but they don't give the joints the same ridgidity that a mechanical joint has. I think a good alternative for 2x4 construction is using lap joints or bridle joints. Both work well with crappy wood, are easy to cut with a table saw or router table, and will provide a lot more rigidity than metal brackets.
JustDavidP
Non-member
Gumhead has some good pictures and illustrations of stand construction, including joints, at his site www.littlereef.com
SHOmuchFUN
Skin-E-Reef
120 stand design
I think this frame design is pretty standard, but be careful in your selection of 2x4s. Mine were pretty warped and made it pretty difficult. My stand is not 100% level and may be a pain in the a** to get it level. We'll see though. The satisfaction of doing it myself will far outweigh the frustration sometime down the road
I think this frame design is pretty standard, but be careful in your selection of 2x4s. Mine were pretty warped and made it pretty difficult. My stand is not 100% level and may be a pain in the a** to get it level. We'll see though. The satisfaction of doing it myself will far outweigh the frustration sometime down the road
OP
OP
aha24
Non-member
I actually started mine today its almost done I didnt get a chance to take pictures but it looks great useing wainscot on the out side and instead of making doors in the front I am making the front panel removable. for access of sump and equipment. and I am only in to it for $97 ... $80 after I return the extra 2x4's
dedfish
That's Mr.Murphy to you!
I just picked up some leveling feet from Rockler. Real heavy duty.
They had a variety of feet and inserts. I settled on these inserts with the beefiest feet they had.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=1641&cs=1
They had a variety of feet and inserts. I settled on these inserts with the beefiest feet they had.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&sku=1641&cs=1
OP
OP
aha24
Non-member
what about these
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=122-441
http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=122-441
SHOmuchFUN
Skin-E-Reef
I plan on putting a door on the side of my stand... That way, I can slide in a much longer sump than what I could fit through the front doors, just like Clam Man said.. I have a 55gal that I'd be breaking down to move into the 120. I plan on adding baffles to the 55 and drilling the side for a pump. Should make for one hell of a sump...
Here is the frame for my 75g stand under construction. This was built with 6 2x4s. I actually left out the center vertical supports when doing the final assembly. The full tank now sits on top with no issues. The inner members on the top frame were used to support a plywood deck needed for an acrylic tank. I wrapped the frame with pine beadboard stock and a double door for the front.
