Gate Valves

1stmardiv

Non-member
We originally installed ball valves to control the flow between the tank and the lower 65 gallon sump. We have always had issues keeping the flow constant and was told we would be better off using gate valves? Anybody kbow which are best for the salt water? Can I get them locally?
 
What exactly are you trying to do? I assume you have a ball valve on the pump output? This should not make the output fluctuate unless you are constantly changing the position of the ball valve. IMO there is no need for a gate valve unless on the output of a skimmer or possibly a calcium reactor if you don't have a needle valve.
 
gate valve

We have a 150 gallon tank with a home made overflow going through a floor mounted bulkhead which splits in two under the tank and then has 2 ball valves which dump the water into the 65 gallon sump below. The ball valves are 1" size. We have had a few ocassions in which the upper tank has overflowed because the fingers in the upper overflow became slightly blocked with some haie algae. When we adjust the two lower ball valves, they are very fine adjustments to keep the flow levels correct. The balls get crapped up and hard to move sometimes. I was told gate valves would work much better. My overflow consists of a 4" diameter PVC coupling in which we created 1" deep fingers all around the top. I then placed a drain cover with holes in the top of it so we would not have any snails try to get inside. It is mounted to the top of the 1" PVC which drops through the bottom into the two valves. We installed the two valves and two lines off the tee because we felt this would reduce the turbulance in the sump which has about 10" of sand in it.
 
I would get rid of the ball valves, you don't need them on the drains. Switch to reverse dursos on the drains and use large diameter PVC capped on the buttom that the drains go into to keep the sand in place. I will draw up a quick picture in paint to show what I mean.

Edit: something like this and you would have 1 or 2 drains if you wanted to keep them seperate or put them together.
 

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We have had a few ocassions in which the upper tank has overflowed because the fingers in the upper overflow became slightly blocked with some haie algae.

Your overflow wall should be at least an inch or more below the rim of the tank.This way if the fingers become blocked the water will simply overflow the way and still return to the sump.
 
Your overflow wall should be at least an inch or more below the rim of the tank.This way if the fingers become blocked the water will simply overflow the way and still return to the sump.

His drian hole is capped to keep any snails ect from going in so this might not matter. For this to work I would also use mesh or something similar on top so if the water rises it can freely flow through the top while still keeping snails and fish out.
 
His drian hole is capped to keep any snails ect from going in so this might not matter. For this to work I would also use mesh or something similar on top so if the water rises it can freely flow through the top while still keeping snails and fish out.

I agree,
I keep eggcrate over the overflow now 24/7.
I've had a clown and a rather large serpent star find their way in there.
 
We originally installed ball valves to control the flow between the tank and the lower 65 gallon sump. We have always had issues keeping the flow constant and was told we would be better off using gate valves? Anybody kbow which are best for the salt water? Can I get them locally?

I use to keep a ball valve to for general measurement and then a gate valve a little down the line for precision. It worked better than a gate or a ball alone.

FYI, stay away from KNIFE valves (sometimes sold as gate valves).
 
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