How Do I Plumb This?!!

Andygabbs

Non-member
Hey Everyone!

I recently got this tank for free off someone in the forum, and I ordered a trigger systems Ruby 36 sump.

I cam figure out how these overflows are supposed to work.

It also has 2 areas for return flow. Do I need 2 return pumps to use both returns? Or can I use a T and split the flow between both? I'm planning on getting a Sicce return pump.

I will pay someone to help me lol, I'm lost, and I can't find any videos with this type of overflow.
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Like you suggested, use a T to split a single return pump stream into two outlets, or two return pumps. The former is the most common approach. The latter is more expensive but provides some level of backup, although it comes with some design/execution considerations as well.

Edit: on the drains side, I’m not sure how others plumb a slim overflow, but the configurations I’ve seen have a box on the back side of the tank that allows for the setup of a herbie or whatever else system you want to set for a full siphon + backup drain line(s). Perhaps the previous owner didn’t bother with the external overflow box?
 
Any idea if this was a diy? Looks like this would be extremely difficult (or impossible) to get working quietly, unless I am missing something.

My favorite way to handle a dual return is to use a SCWD. A bit old school, but still awesome. https://3iqventures.com/collections/products
I just now realized this is all removable, and there is 2, 2.5" holes drilled in the glass. Amy reccomendations now knowing this?
 

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How'd the person you got the tank from have it plumbed? Looks as if you can just plumb the drains and call it a day to me.
 
I am in Upton if you want to see a set up and get a few ideas. I use a similar overflow on my frag tank but has the external box as the link above showed. It the elbows come off the back you could trun them into durso drains by using a T instead of the 90 degree elbow with a pipe going up.
 
Looks like a winner. Not sure I would have used a ball valve on the main siphon though, hard to set right in my experience. I'd swap that out for a gate valve instead and bet it would be 100% silent and stable. Gate valves work really well for accurate control. Ball valves always seem to "pop" a little more or less than I'm trying to set them to. I know they're expensive from reef supply places, but searching online can give lower cost options. A word of warning on the cheaper valves though... Some might weep from the seal under the knob. Quality gate valves will have a threaded ring to compress against the shaft seal so it can be tweaked for drip free operation. The cheapos have a glued seal retainer you can't do do anything with, so I simply locate the valve above the sump so if does weep, it goes in the sump and not on the floor behind the tank.
 
Looks like a winner. Not sure I would have used a ball valve on the main siphon though, hard to set right in my experience. I'd swap that out for a gate valve instead and bet it would be 100% silent and stable. Gate valves work really well for accurate control. Ball valves always seem to "pop" a little more or less than I'm trying to set them to. I know they're expensive from reef supply places, but searching online can give lower cost options. A word of warning on the cheaper valves though... Some might weep from the seal under the knob. Quality gate valves will have a threaded ring to compress against the shaft seal so it can be tweaked for drip free operation. The cheapos have a glued seal retainer you can't do do anything with, so I simply locate the valve above the sump so if does weep, it goes in the sump and not on the floor behind the tank.
This is a very expensive ball valve. I have a friend that had a pretty large tank (250 if I remember) and he also works at plumbing store. This is what he's had on his tank for 3 years, still turns nice and easy. That's why I went with this one.

But my initial plan was tp use a gate valve, however it is completely silent.
 
My experience was mostly with the Home Depot valves that work great as a shut off. I've never owned the better quality ball valves like you used, but the design difference is real, and the ability to turn a knob a controlled amount just makes me like them better. I like the custom DIY side of the hobby and recycle parts so often that I only buy valves with NPT threads avoiding having to glue them. Trying different combinations has taught me a few methods I'd like to stick with I guess. Great looking set up and I hope you add pics as your system comes to life.
 
This is a very expensive ball valve. I have a friend that had a pretty large tank (250 if I remember) and he also works at plumbing store. This is what he's had on his tank for 3 years, still turns nice and easy. That's why I went with this one.

But my initial plan was tp use a gate valve, however it is completely silent.
It is not so much whether it turns easily, a ball valve will never be as accurate and adjustable as a gate valve based on design. Hate valves are the preferred valve in this situation.
 
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