How many of you use controller for Temp?

Pinkskunk

Non-member
Eversince i added the red carpet, i am becoming more obcessed with water parameter and maybe reaching the point of being s freak, and i don't think i like it - but no turning back now :D

I am just curious how many of you out there using controller to control heaters/temperature?

I am thinking of buying the least expensive controller out there,

RK Lite 1

any idea if this is a good unit? i just want it to turn on my light, control my temp, and maybe down the road add a Ph probe.
 
I run an RKL level 3, mainly for light schedule, temp and top off. The only thing is I do see is that the temp can bounce .2 degrees. I am hoping that this gets fixed in an update. To compensate for this I set my hysteresis to .3 degrees so the heaters don't come on and off when it bounces.

How is the carpet?
 
thanks guys for the responses...

Matt,
Carpet doing ok i guess. i will say it's doing good if 6 months has pass ....


Rob,
yes that is what i am looking at. no it's not you, it's complicated for me also :)
 
I am looking at upgrading to the Elite when the software comes out. Plus I already hit the 4 module max of it and would like to do more.

Just a note if you have MH lights or a low wattage pump like an Aqualifter they need to be plugged into channels 1 or 4. They have issues on channels 2&3. So plan this out with how many PC4s you will need.

Programming is not that bad, if you need help let me know.
 
My 250w electronic icecap ballasts switch fine on ports 1-3 on one of my PC4's. It must depend upon the ballast type.
 
My 250w electronic icecap ballasts switch fine on ports 1-3 on one of my PC4's. It must depend upon the ballast type.

Mine when it was on channel 3 would flicker when it was suppose to be off and DA said that it should be on channel 1 or 4, I have a Bluewave 7 250 watt
 
i talked to DA support and here is what i got.

I want to do:

1) Control the heaters on both of my systems, total of 1500W. 1000w for DT. 500W for QT.

2) Turn on 750W of MH. 500W for DT, and 250W for QT.

he told me to get the Lite 1 and add the SL1, and add a temp prob. BUT, best is to get the Plus model and gedt the temp prob. Plus model is $275 plus the temp prob.

So...... i was thinking, 250 plus cost for the prob would run close to $400, no can do unless i win a lottery.

So i think, get 2 Lite models and i will end up with 2 of each of everything i need for half the price of the Plus model....

what gives? something is not right.... am i missing something?
 
yea i don't get that either..

I personally hate my Lite.. it sucks.. hard to program..

My aqua controller was so easy.. didin't even need the directions but more expensive and can only monitor one tank. I think you can buy an add on for it though
 
The Lite Plus and the temp probe is $299.98

The Lite Plus will include 1 temp probe(iTemp) and then just order the temp probe for an SL1/SL2 (important as it is a different connection)
 
Matt,

yeah ok with 2 Lite 1 @ $99.99 each, i am still $100 ahead of the PLUS and i have an extra PC4 (a $90 value) :)

let's not forget with an extra PC4, you can have twice the load. oh did i mention with 2 Lite 1 you have 2 temp probs? :D

and here is the best part, one day if you shut down one of the system, you can sell off one of the Lite. you can't do this with the Plus :D
 
The lite basic only has 1 PC4 the Plus has 2 and comes with the SL1 to monitor ph.

If you can fit everything on each system on its one PC4 then yes the Lite Basic is the way to go (cheaper for what you get). If not and you can get it all on 2 PC4s the Plus is the way to go with the added temp. This way you get the SL1 that if you want can add float switches and gives you ph.
 
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