How to improve color to be the opposite of tan?

IPWitan

Non-member
Crazy unique question, but the corals in my tank don't look as good as from where they came. Almost all came from two vendors who have impeccable reputations and have awesome tanks, so it is clearly MY tank. They are losing their color and tanning. They don't appear to be bleaching as it has been over a month since introduction and they aren't white. I have made a few changes in the last week, which I will note below.

Status of tank by creature:

Zoanthids are very happy and growing
Frogspawn is happy
Toadstool where clowns live is extremely happy.

Corals doing well - all but one SPS introduced 6 or 10 weeks ago:
Setosa
neon green milli
strawberry shortcake
red planet
green slimer
gatorade birdsnet
Lime n the sky slimer
my purple acropurple slimer

Corals that are looking pale:
blue acro (losing blue)
blue rim tenius (much lighter in color)
Bonsai - hardly purple at all. green dots still visable
upscale microclados (losing green and pink/purple color)

Tanks:
75 gallon with sump
Nova Extreme 6x54 watt t5 (ATI 3 Blue+, 2 Coral+, and 1 True Actinic+)
skimmer, etc.
3 hydro powerheads (Evo 1150, Evo 1300, and 1950 Gen 3)
Magdrive 5 return

Parameters:
ph 8.3
ca 440
alk 9
mag 1360
nitrates - not detected
phosphates - not detected
temp 78
water change of 10 gallons every fortnight

Fish:
yellow tang, flame angel and 3 clowns - all very active (2 clowns in sump, but we don't talk about them)
many snails and scarlet hermits.

Notables -
ca and alk have not been constant, but have been between ca 400-470 and alk 7-10. I have been setting up kalk in my ATO and making up the difference with 2 part. I bought a doser so hopefully I will dial this in in the next 2 weeks.
Mag was low, 1150-1200 based on first test with new kit. 4 days ago I increased it to 1360
Lighting was 1.2 years old and replaced as noted above 1 day ago. I had 3 coral+, 2 blue+ and a purple, all ATI

While tank is well established, I have put in many new rocks. All the same, the rocks have been in the tank 3-4 months.

Refugium - chaeto and calpura put in refugium within days of the second batch of corals. It has been in the tank for about a month and is growing well.

Tank has bubble algae (need emeralds), but no other algae is noteworthy. Snails and tang keep all of it out of sight.

Feeding:
3-4 3 inch squares of nori a week
1x a day auto feeder of flake
1-2x a week some form of frozen food (cytopleeze, blood worms, other critter cube)
1x a week 1/4 teaspoon of reef freak (some powder I put in water)

Checked tank at night and there are lots of little things swimming in the water column. There are tube worms in sump. This suggests to me that the corals are not starving for food and if anything, there is excess po4.

So have I done enough with setting up the refugium and getting new light? Will the tank start to color up on its own? If so, how long will it take? If not, what else should I do?

I will post comparison pictures later

 
For a six-bulb t5, I would use 3 blue plus, 1 aquablue special, 1 actinic and 1 coral plus
 
Your big toad stool is an serious issue for SPS.
 
I think feed more and maybe even a couple more fish. Start by pushing the feeding. Also the parameters need to be stable for best results. IME a large toadstool could inhibit growth in sps but it didn't stop the colors in my sps.


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For the lights, I had another suggestion of 3 blue +, 1 coral+, 1 actinic, and 1 purple. I have a purple bulb which I may try.

As for the leather, it has grown dramatically since I have started to take particular care of all the parameters. I would hate to see it go, particularly since the clowns live in it. Researching coping mechanisms, such as aggressive carbon.
 
You would need a ton of carbon those things put out a ton of toxins. Oddly that doesn't seem to affect lps or softies much. I had a big one they now resides in dongs tank that since removing has improved overall tank growth . There is a reason we have dos tanks and softy/ lps tanks . Mixed reefs are very tricky. It can be done I suppose but choosing corals that play well together is a challenge. Some get lucky and are able to keep giant toads and sps together. What they are doing is beyond me yet .
 
In my 400+ gallon softy/lps system, I have two 24 inch big toadstool. Even with aggressive carbon, arco still turn pale and not growing. Aggressive carbon leads to aggressive growth of the two toadstool.
 
I had a big one they now resides in dongs tank that since removing has improved overall tank growth .
Yea, thank you very much man;)
Now the thing is triple in size.
Tomorrow I am going to move the big hammer out so that it has room to expand.
 
Going back to the color of some acros, it was almost impossible for me to have in all the acros the same color they had when I got them.

The most striking change was in a beautiful BLUE Acro I got from Dong. After a few months acquired a very strong and dark green. It is still a pretty acro....but dark green now :)

Bottom line, I lost the hope to keep colors as others or nature because, at least for me, it is very difficult.

So.....I decided to accept my destiny. If corals are healthy...that is enough to me !!!

Cheers!!
 
That is highly unusual.
Can you please bring it back and let me take a look at it?
 
I was having similar issues with acros. A gorgeous frogskin turned drab green with slow growth. Tried increasing lighting and only managed to hurt other SPS. After putting the lighting back to where I had it, I moved the frogskin down about 12 inches from where I had it. That was a few months ago. It now has a beautiful cream center that transitions to light green with purple tips.
 
It is just my observation, a calcium reactor with the Reborn media from TLF (which is coral skeleton) helps to maintain intense coral color. I think this may due to the supplementation of some trace elements by this reactor media. Like melting coral to feed coral.




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I was having similar issues with acros. A gorgeous frogskin turned drab green with slow growth. Tried increasing lighting and only managed to hurt other SPS. After putting the lighting back to where I had it, I moved the frogskin down about 12 inches from where I had it. That was a few months ago. It now has a beautiful cream center that transitions to light green with purple tips.

What type of lighting are you using?


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I run a combo of pacsun hyperion and t-5's. It appears that I've just been overdoing it with the lighting.
 
That is highly unusual.
Can you please bring it back and let me take a look at it?

Dong ...it is a healthy encrusted Acro now. Thank you for the offer, but I like it.

As you wrote, there are many factors related to color, among those, nutrients levels combined with Alk levels, supplements like all the line that Red Sea sells for coral color, light, etc .

My tank isn't the same as yours, so that is my risk. A risk that is the same with every Acro a get.

I am happy..... Cheers my friend !!!
 
Your big toad stool is an serious issue for SPS.

This was my first thought while I was reading your post. I prefer to make one change at a time to attempt to figure out the issue.

As for your bulbs, I think you are fine. In my 8 I run 3b+,3c+ and 2 actinic and I could not be happier with my color. That said, if removing the toadstool does not clear things up then I would try a bulb change.

My 3rd observation was lack of nutrients. If your nitrate is really zero and you do not have any algae problems you may want to consider dosing small amounts of nitrate. This is what I use..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GVYXKC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
 
As for the lack of nutrients, I considered this but have to think there are indeed plenty, for the following reasons.

1 - there are healthy yellow sponges between the rocks and on the back wall. I always thought these grow when there are nutrients, potentially excess nutrients.
2 - there are lots of small white sponges in the sump.
3 - there are lots of tiny tubes (presumably for worms) on the back walls and sump.
4 - when I took the flashlight to the display 10 minutes after lights out, the tank had tons of very little things darting and wiggling around the water column.
5 - perhaps most compelling is that the macros in the refugium have grown quite a bit in the last 45 days. I would estimate that the chaeto is at least x10 its volume. It once fit in a zip lock bag. Now the ball is the size of a medium to large mixing bowl. The calpura seems to have grown, but the 2 clowns in the sump may be eating it.
6 - close up photos show little fuzz on the rocks. I assume this is algae but is being consumed by the tang, turbos, mexican turbos, and hermits.

I did not see any copepods in the display nor fire worms, which is surprising. I have to think they are there, however. The limestone (marco rocks) are extremely porous with tons of big and small caves/tunnels within the structure. This seems perfect for copepods and isopods.

As for nitrate and phosphate tests, they are both API. Notwithstanding, I have never had testable levels of either in my tanks yet macros still grow, so there is my contradiction. It is entirely possible that ammonia is consumed by the plants prior to completion of the nitrate cycle. Besides, as I just learned, the toadstool may be consuming nitrate too.

As for potassium nitrate, I will have to research that a bit. I do have a few stumps that need removing... I would much rather buy more fish and will begin researching the best ones for my purpose.
 
API nitrate test kit is known to be very very inaccurate, ask Reefstarter about it.
 
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