Overdosed on PH Reef buffer by Seachem!

[higorc]

My tank has always had a pretty constant PH level. Today when I tested my water PH read about 7.8 so I dosed Reef buffer to bring it up and over did it.

Right now it reads about 8.6 – 8.8.

I mixed 35G of tap water and salt for an emergency water change, but when I checked the PH on that it was pretty much the same thing. I usually do RODI (which is about the neutral 7.0 PH) but in the haste of trying to bring the DT PH down a little, I used Tap water with AmQ.

I have a mixed Reef Tank. SPS, LPS and Softies.

It’s been 6 hours since I F%@#*& the pooch and all the corals look the same. Nothing is closed or acting abnormally. I read a bunch of ways to bring the PH down but I don’t want to do anything else to the tank without absolutely having to.

By the way, the rest of my readings r good. 0 Nitrate, Mag 1350, Salinity 1.025, Dkh 8, Calcium 440. sO I don't see high levels of PH bringing anything to dangerous levels.

I am using just a regular API test kit and I know these things are not accurate, so my question is; Should I just leave it the way it is and watch everything in the tank closely, or should I do something about it?

I know SPS r the most affected with these swings but like I said, I don’t want to stress anything even more by adding vinegar, soda water or any buffers.

Any suggestion is appreciated guys.

Thanks
Higor

 

[CaptainAndy]

Leave it alone. If the tank was healthy it will easily take this minor hit. PH will be back to normal in a few hours.

 

[higorc]

Leave it alone. If the tank was healthy it will easily take this minor hit. PH will be back to normal in a few hours.

Thanks Andy. I would say my tank is pretty stable, so that's what I plan on doing. I just needed that extra push u know

But if anybody there knows anything I don't, please share...

Thanks guys...

 

[GobyWanKenobie]

I agree. If it's already been 6 hours, it's probably best to leave it alone. Creating another PH swing might just stress them out more.

 

[higorc]

I agree. If it's already been 6 hours, it's probably best to leave it alone. Creating another PH swing might just stress them out more.

Thanks guys. That's what I thought at first. But it's always good to get a second opinion.

That's why we are all here right?!

 

[P-Nut]

Don't trust API test kits. My calcium test kit swings all the time from 520-560 (and I don't dose anything).
API = CRAP.

did you say your tap water PH was also around 8.6?

 

[higorc]

Don't trust API test kits. My calcium test kit swings all the time from 520-560 (and I don't dose anything).
API = CRAP.

did you say your tap water PH was also around 8.6?

Yes! I tested the newly mixed water before i did the water change (good thing) and it was the same thing. Around 8.6. I couldn't believe it!

I leave in Malden, MA.

Then I tested the water from my RODI system. A flat 7.0 PH. Little difference huh?!!

Higor's EVO 3D

 

[MikeG]

so the big issue here is all those pH buffers actually raise your alkalinity. I would care less what my pH was at this point but would absolutely be testing my alkalinity to see what I did to that and if anything needs to be done.

 

[higorc]

so the big issue here is all those pH buffers actually raise your alkalinity. I would care less what my pH was at this point but would absolutely be testing my alkalinity to see what I did to that and if anything needs to be done.

After u mentioned I tested my Dkh and its 12 instead of 8. I figured it would be higher.

Calcium still the same. Some people might say 12 is too much. For some not. So I think I'm still ok with that. Except for the big swing of course.

Only way I know to bring Alk down is by water changes. But there again, if there is no immediate danger I rather leave it alone and ride it out. I just don't want to make any drastic changes to the water chemistry.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks


Higor's EVO 3D

 

[JohnK]

Just wait and it should come down over time.

In the future, skip anything called a "buffer" and insted stick with an alk additive (baking soda, works great, MUCH cheaper). PH in seawater is a function of alk and Co2. If your alk is in the normal range and you have a somewhat low PH, it's a Co2 issue. If you try to fight that by adding buffer, you are really pushing the alk up unnecessarily high in an effort to fix a problem that isn't really there. Unless the PH is getting below 7.7-7.8, there really is no problem.

 

[higorc]

Just wait and it should come down over time.

In the future, skip anything called a "buffer" and insted stick with an alk additive (baking soda, works great, MUCH cheaper).

Good idea.

So baking soda by it self does the trick? It raises PH? I always heard of reefers using it, but i never did it my self.

Higor's EVO 3D

 

[jamesdong009]

Personally I've given up chasing pH for several years now. Don't get me wrong, my probe is still in there but hasn't been calibrated in years. pH flucuates...I open a window, it raises, I close a window, it drops. TBH, I haven't done a test for anything in God knows how long.

Keep an eye on your corals and they'll tell you if something has changed. Most of the time, it'll be your alkalinity.

 

[Trevor]

i've been tagging along and only have 1 question, how much baking soda does everyone recommend as a say baseline amount?
1 teaspoon per 10g?..20g? how do you all measure it or know how much to use?

 

[higorc]

i've been tagging along and only have 1 question, how much baking soda does everyone recommend as a say baseline amount?
1 teaspoon per 10g?..20g? how do you all measure it or know how much to use?

That would b my next question as well.

How is baking soda used to control PH? Do u dissolve it in RO water or just put it in the tank/sump?

Higor's EVO 3D

 

[JohnK]

That would b my next question as well.

How is baking soda used to control PH? Do u dissolve it in RO water or just put it in the tank/sump?

Higor's EVO 3D

Baking soda isn't used to control PH, it is used to raise Alk. Alk (and Co2 level) determines PH in seawater. If your Alk is in range your PH will be in range as well, UNLESS there is excess Co2 in the water from either lack of gas exchange, or more commonly elevated PH in the air around the tank.

Baking soda is used in Randy H-F's DIY 2 part recipies for the alk component. If you need to adjust alk, you can use just the alk part of the 2 part.

Here is the link for the DIY 2 part recipes;
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

And here is the link for the reef chemistry calculator, plug in your system size, current levels, desired levels, and what additive you will use, and it will tell you how much to add and any cautions you should be aware of.
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html

 

[JohnK]

i've been tagging along and only have 1 question, how much baking soda does everyone recommend as a say baseline amount?
1 teaspoon per 10g?..20g? how do you all measure it or know how much to use?

You would make up the alk solution as per one of the recipes linked above ^, baking soda mixed in RO water.

To get a dose you would test the level(s) and then use the caluculator linked above ^ to determine how much. Preferably you get the levels right, then work out daily Ca and alk doses so the levels don't fluxuate excessively between corretions.

 

[JohnK]

For an example, this is the simplest way to raise alk with just baking soda and RO water. This is actually recipe #2 which is best suited for systems where the PH runs a tad high, but it will work fine for a simple correction.

Add 1 1/8 cup of baking soda to 1 gal of water
For a 100 gallon system, add 143 ml of the above solution to raise the alk by 1 dKh.

Recipe #1 is also simple, but you need to bake the baking soda in the oven to remove the mositure, and then you mix it about twice as strong. Anyway, if anyone is interested read the article. It takes a few minutes to read through, but it can save you a small fortune over off the shelf additives marketed for the aquarium trade. (pickling lime is also the same as kalkwasser mix that sells for 10X or more in the fish stores, but that's another story )

 

[P-Nut]

You shouldn't have to worry about measuring stuff with regular water changes. (Regular = every week)
I used to measure all the time, and the parameters never changed. Then I just stopped measuring, until one day, for some stupid reason, I decided to measure Calcium, and then I freaked out. I ended up throwing the calcium kit away because it was a POS. I didn't do any changes or added anything.

 

[JohnK]

You shouldn't have to worry about measuring stuff with regular water changes. (Regular = every week)
I used to measure all the time, and the parameters never changed. Then I just stopped measuring, until one day, for some stupid reason, I decided to measure Calcium, and then I freaked out. I ended up throwing the calcium kit away because it was a POS. I didn't do any changes or added anything.

What kind of salt do you use? Also what brand of test kits was it that you found so problematic?

Some salt mixes are high in important levels, some are not so high. For example, if you do regular water changes with instant ocean you will definately have low Ca and alk because the freshly made saltwater would be low to begin with. On the other hand there are some salts that have ca in the 500 range...

 

[stingythingy45]

Don't trust API test kits. My calcium test kit swings all the time from 520-560 (and I don't dose anything).
API = CRAP.

did you say your tap water PH was also around 8.6?

John,I think he doesn't like API.
But,I find them to be an excellent back up for Salifert or Elos.
As long as I'm above 450 ppm ca.,I'm good.
I don't think I've tested PH in months.I generally have to dust that kit off.
I could care less where that parameter is,I just keep alk,ca,mg in check along with salinity.
I'd probably be more concerned if I had a calcium reactor.