Overflow Noice Suggestions
- Thread starter DC4242
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pallobi
Neal
U shouldnt have any gurgling with durso, and i dont have a link handy, though i am pretty sure Turbosnail linked it in a recent thread, perhaps u could try a search... its fairly simple, and u have the right idea i believe, but u will see eqsier than i can explain if we can locate that thread...
What you have is kind of similar, but the holes in the sides and the location of the little hole in the top throws it off. (you probably saw an AGA "megaflow" plumbing kit and that's where the big holes on the sides came from. I don't know why they do that??) A properly set up duroso runs on a parital siphion, meaning it's a siphion but allows a little air into the mix which slows the flow down and keeps it from flushing. Those big holes in the sides completely throw the design off. Also the little air hole won't work well where it's placed in your set up.
A duroso should have a T on top of the stand pipe, with one open end pointing straight up and covered with a cap, and the center of the T connecting to an elbow that points down. The only vent hole should be on the top of the cap that is sticking up in the air. Basically you build it like this and drill a tiny vent hole and try running it, if it flushes (runs quite for a little while as the water level rises in the overflow, then makes a flushing noise as the water level drops back down, then repeat) it needs a the hole drilled out slightly larger (or much smaller if you drilled it way too big)
Google "duroso standpipe" and look at the many pics that will come up.
A duroso should have a T on top of the stand pipe, with one open end pointing straight up and covered with a cap, and the center of the T connecting to an elbow that points down. The only vent hole should be on the top of the cap that is sticking up in the air. Basically you build it like this and drill a tiny vent hole and try running it, if it flushes (runs quite for a little while as the water level rises in the overflow, then makes a flushing noise as the water level drops back down, then repeat) it needs a the hole drilled out slightly larger (or much smaller if you drilled it way too big)
Google "duroso standpipe" and look at the many pics that will come up.
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Hey,
Way too many/big holes. 1 tiny hole.
You can also have issues because of the plumbing not being vented where it hits the sump (aka reverse duroso). If the drain is submerged without a vent it can cause problems getting the duroso to run smoothly.
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I'm confused, shortening the standpipe would make the whole assembly sit lower, so no that wouldn't raise the water level, it would lower it.
It sounds like you have something else complicating this. How is the bottom of the drain line set up? How much flow are you running through it, and what size pipe? (is the pipe oversized as Mike mentioned?)
Could you post a pic of how the standpipe, and drain into the sump are arranged? That might help a lot.
OP
OP
DC4242
Non-member
I'm using 1.25 for a 1 inch bulkhead and the drain is straight pvc down into cellar sump - I also have a ball valve wide open on the drain
if I shorten standpipe making it sit lower in overflow with same water level as before, with first set of pics the big holes in side of elbow seems where the nice was coming from because they were right at water level
if I shorten standpipe making it sit lower in overflow with same water level as before, with first set of pics the big holes in side of elbow seems where the nice was coming from because they were right at water level
You need to get rid of those holes (replace the elbow).
If you shorten the stand pipe the water level will sit lower and the noise will be the same, but with added noise from the water fall into the lower level in the overflow.
Sort of but not entirely. The height of the standpipe will roughly set the water level in the overflow, but the exact tuning of the plumbing and air inlet will affect it a little bit.
When you change it tommorow, replace both elbows, one with an elbow and one with a T, and get the cap for the top of the T. For the duroso to work right and be quiet, all the water needs to be drawn in underwater, and the air inlet should not be being splashed or submerged, hence the T and the cap (so that the air inlet is raised out of the water).
Take a look at the pics in this link;
http://www.midwestcustomaquariums.com/dursostandpipe.html
See how the water will be going into the open elbow pointed down, the water level will be high enough that that inlet will be totally submerged, and the air inlet will be completely above the water.
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OP
OP
DC4242
Non-member
OK so SCARE the &%#@ out of me - glad the wifes not a member, so the pic in the cellar, the drain line is Y off with the side with ball valve not being used and closed, tried to have gravity feed sterilizer and then to skimmer but was not getting enough flow so closed it off and pump fed them, tank overflowing I hope can't happen because I have a double automatic float valve shut off to main pump feeding tank
but I value your opinion to avert disasters
the drain goes into DIY drip box filled with live rock and then to 125 gallon sump
but I value your opinion to avert disasters
the drain goes into DIY drip box filled with live rock and then to 125 gallon sump
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Sorry to scare you, but better safe than sorry 
This could be tricky to troubleshoot with that long straight drop.
Did you ever say the aprox flow rate through this drain?
Do you have space to shift things a little so that the long drain pipe is at a bit of an angle so that the water is flowing against one side of the pipe insted of swirling around in a big vortex?
Is there any way for air to vent out where it feeds into the drip tray?
This could be tricky to troubleshoot with that long straight drop.
Did you ever say the aprox flow rate through this drain?
Do you have space to shift things a little so that the long drain pipe is at a bit of an angle so that the water is flowing against one side of the pipe insted of swirling around in a big vortex?
Is there any way for air to vent out where it feeds into the drip tray?
OP
OP
DC4242
Non-member
don't know flow rate but its all 1 inch PVC and that does have a top end limit that would go thru it, I do have some space to shift things but not sure how since its all rigid PVC there is a union to drip box
what if I get a long rigid tube line and feed it thru hole in cap all the way to drip box, I was watching overflow and while it is much quiter I notice every minute or so the water level drops and seems to be a rush of water down drain
don't know about venting drip tray but the bulkhead is in a piece of lexan the sits inside top of box so its not like its air tight
what if I get a long rigid tube line and feed it thru hole in cap all the way to drip box, I was watching overflow and while it is much quiter I notice every minute or so the water level drops and seems to be a rush of water down drain
don't know about venting drip tray but the bulkhead is in a piece of lexan the sits inside top of box so its not like its air tight
Try this;
Have someone else stand by the tank and watch the water in the overflow, then tinker with that ball valve a little. See if you can close it a little more without the whole drain starting to back up?
If that works, then the valve might be directing the water aginst one side of the pipe accomplishing basically the same thing as slightly angling the drain. If that's the case, then you could probably replace that rigid pipe with spaflex and bend the lower portion just a little.
If that test doesnt' work (closing the valve sligthly more causes the drain to start to back up) then I'm kind of stumped at the moment.
Another thought... Is the noise more of a gurgling, or a sucking sound? Deep and hollow, or higher pitched and wispy?
I'm sure this can be quieted down, but it can be hard to figure out in type
Have someone else stand by the tank and watch the water in the overflow, then tinker with that ball valve a little. See if you can close it a little more without the whole drain starting to back up?
If that works, then the valve might be directing the water aginst one side of the pipe accomplishing basically the same thing as slightly angling the drain. If that's the case, then you could probably replace that rigid pipe with spaflex and bend the lower portion just a little.
If that test doesnt' work (closing the valve sligthly more causes the drain to start to back up) then I'm kind of stumped at the moment.
Another thought... Is the noise more of a gurgling, or a sucking sound? Deep and hollow, or higher pitched and wispy?
I'm sure this can be quieted down, but it can be hard to figure out in type
