RODI connected through sink faucet. How high do I turn on the water?
- Thread starter ricomike
- Start date
THE WOOKIE
Just Keep Swimming
don't use hot water you will make the di resin wear out faster
Turning the water all the way on seems like it would waste a lot of water. I understand an RODI generates about 1 gallon of pure for 3-4 gallons wasted but at an average of 3 gallon of pure an hour wouldn't that imply that about 12 gallons gets wasted an hour for a total of 15 gallons. If i turned my sink on full blast I think it will produce quite a bit more than just 15 gallons of water in an hour.
Flame Angel
Past BRS Pres/2016MOD
If I remember correctly from Marc Levinson presentation a year ago November. You need 60# of water pressure and you do not want the water freezing, but again not hot either. Man I wish I could remember the temp. Maybe someone else will remember.
More than 77F and more than 50 psi is what it says on the manual I got. So do I turn on just enough hot water to get that temperature? And as for the PSI do I just guess since I don't have a pressure gauge or should I just not use it until I get one? This thing is a bit more complicated than I had assumed it would be. Harvard educated and I can't even filter water...
THE WOOKIE
Just Keep Swimming
Higher psi lets the ro membrane work more eficiently
Alright well I just turned it on full blast. The water is pretty cold not sure if I should maybe turn on a little bit of the hot water to warm it up to the ideal 77 degrees or if that's a terrible idea. Is the waste water drinkable? It seems like since the water going in is drinkable than the waste water should be too right? The TDS i measured straight from the tap was 86PPM, the waste water was 212PPM, and out of the DI is 0PPM. I suppose I let this run for an hour before I actually collect water to use for the tank.
So the pressure gauge isn't to tell you the pressure of the water entering into the RODI but rather tells you the pressure at a later step of the process? Interesting. So how does one figure out the pressure coming out of the sink. Is it safe to assume that fully open is high enough and not too much. My kitchen sink seems to have stronger water pressure than most sinks I've used in my day. Not to brag or anything.
Moe_K
Stabbed by Foulke
Pressure gauge will tell you the pressure where ever you measure.
You want to know input pressure, and can measure at every step for analysis.
I'd just open up the faucet and let 'er rip.
pbienkiewicz
Non-member
I have a Seachem Pinnacle + RO 200gpd unit . Then it is connected to a 2 stage DI canister with a TDS meter that reads TDS going into the DI canister then exiting the DI canister. I have a booster pump attached to the faucet to achieve the proper water pressure. The water goes threw the pump then into two micron filters then threw the carbon filter. Then the water flows to the two RO membranes. Then to my 2 canister DI unit where I can take readings at.
Where it goes to the emembrane his is where the water pressure guage is set up. The RO membrane works on water pressure to penetrate the membrane. If water pressure is to high it will not stop other unwanted particles as easily. If the water pressue is to low it will not reach top efficency of the unit. If the water is to cold it causes the membrane to tighten up not allowing the unit to run at top afficency. To hot and the membrane opens up to much allowing other stuff than pure water to go past the membrane.
If you do not have a pressure guage is there a nipple that can be twisted off? If so you could buy a pressure guage and add it there.
What RO unit do you have? What is the reading of TDS that you have coming out of the RO unit? Think about adding it to a Di unit to achieve 0 TDS
Where it goes to the emembrane his is where the water pressure guage is set up. The RO membrane works on water pressure to penetrate the membrane. If water pressure is to high it will not stop other unwanted particles as easily. If the water pressue is to low it will not reach top efficency of the unit. If the water is to cold it causes the membrane to tighten up not allowing the unit to run at top afficency. To hot and the membrane opens up to much allowing other stuff than pure water to go past the membrane.
If you do not have a pressure guage is there a nipple that can be twisted off? If so you could buy a pressure guage and add it there.
What RO unit do you have? What is the reading of TDS that you have coming out of the RO unit? Think about adding it to a Di unit to achieve 0 TDS
pbienkiewicz
Non-member
As for drinking the waste water from the Ro unit I would not. It is at 212 TDS you said. Of those 212 TDs how many TDS of that it is metals or other waste products in it?
THE WOOKIE
Just Keep Swimming
waste water can be used to water plants and stuff
Thanks for all the responses everyone. It worked great and I now have two 5 gallon jugs of zero TDS water. Oh and pbienkiewicz my RODI unit is the "COMPACT III (5) Stage R.O.D.I. Reefkeeper with DI Bypass" from airwaterice.com ( http://www.airwaterice.com/product/...PD-with-DI-Bypass-Assembly-and-TDS-Meter.html ) the filters in it are for chloramines removal. I spoke with Cliff Donnelly I believe his name is from the company and told him that I needed one with chloramines but didn't want to buy the large Typhoon III so he was kind enough to give me the compact unit with chloramine filters instead free of charge. He's a nice guy. My unit does have a DI it just lacks both the pressure gauge and booster pump that you have. Also it's my understanding that having the DI in a horizontal manner like mine will reduce the longevity of the DI however space was a significant limiting factor for me and in the future if need be and I have the space I believe I can purchase a vertical DI instead to replace the horizontal one that I have.
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