Tank Leveling

[Deleted member 13027]

I just wanted some veteran reef keepers to tell me if my leveling is safe.

I have a 75g (48x18x24) tempered bottom on the stand it came with. I'm pretty sure it's 50/50 pine and board. However I did reinforce the tank with 2x4s and extra wood panels on the sides of the top.

Anyways I have a terrible floor in my place. Spent the entire day trying to level it. Burned through 2 packs of composite shims (I like these, they are water resistant)

My aquarium sits against a wall in the corner with a second stand for testing to the right of it

I started out with a slight tilt to the right and front. Was able to sort out the tilt to the right easily. The front tilt was very hard to adjust. I ended up with perfect level lengthwise and a slight tilt back towards the wall.

Pics show my final result. It shakes from floor vibrations and if I nudge it with a bit of force. But it doesn't sway, wobble or teeter-totter.

Please tell me if this is alright. I've never had a tank this large. I worry about this stuff.

Thanks.

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[Arsalan]

You’re good. I shimmed my 210, no issues yet and I’m over a year in.
Front to back leveling is more important than side to side given the weight on the bigger glass panels.
Rimless tanks are a different story, if you’ve got a rimmed tank you’re usually good with a lil tilt, especially a 75, though it’s never recommended.


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[kgstei]

Leveling the tank is one issue. The overall structure of your floor is another. Those floors are sagging and bouncy for a reason.

 

[aresangel]

The leveling should be fine.

But I would be concerned with the wobbling from walking by. Do you need to fill in the gaps between the shims to reduce that maybe?


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[Deleted member 13027]

The leveling should be fine.

But I would be concerned with the wobbling from walking by. Do you need to fill in the gaps between the shims to reduce that maybe?


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The tank doesn't wobble when walking by... It just vibrates/slight shake.

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[Chris A.]

If you have any 3/4” plywood , cut it to fit the whole bottom of the stand and then shim off of the plywood. That way you’ll create less pressure points on your floor and distribute the weight more.

 

[Deleted member 13027]

If you have any 3/4” plywood , cut it to fit the whole bottom of the stand and then shim off of the plywood. That way you’ll create less pressure points on your floor and distribute the weight more.

Ugh.. I don't wanna drain it again haha.

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[Chris A.]

Is this a house and is there a basement you have access to the floor from under the tank?
Could put a few extra cross braces to strengthen out the floor

 

[Deleted member 13027]

Is this a house and is there a basement you have access to the floor from under the tank?
Could put a few extra cross braces to strengthen out the floor

I'm on the first floor of a multifamily house built in 1845, I have no access to the basement.

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[Arsalan]

If the tank is parallel with the length of the house, and is on an outside/weight barring wall, I think you’re def good weight wise because the joists will be perpendicular to the tank and the tank will be sitting on where they meet the beam/foundation.

Give your tank a strong shake test, try to rock it back and forth pretty hard from front to back. If the whole thing moves more than you’re comfortable with, I’d somehow try to secure the stand to the wall towards the top of the stand. Otherwise I think you’re okay. Just make sure the shims aren’t sticking out too far so you don’t accidentally kick them off one day. If they are I’d cut them flush.