wireing question

[theone]

I wired up a MH retrofit but I dont like the wire nuts just hanging around. How can I enclose them or wire them up so they are neat and safe?

 

[smcnally]

I wired up a MH retrofit but I dont like the wire nuts just hanging around. How can I enclose them or wire them up so they are neat and safe?

Believe it or not, wire nuts really are the safest way (and only way in code I believe). The safest way would be to wire nut them inside a junction box and then put a cover on the junction box.

 

[theone]

Do you mean just a regular metal outlet box?
That would make sense.

 

[Leroy]

Tin wires, solder wires and heat shrink connection. Or another way, 2 crimp ring lugs and a 6-32 x 1/8 screw with a 6-32 nut, wrapped with elect.tape or shrink tube.

 

[Jim Tansey]

As Steve said wire nuts are very safe, I will add if properly installed, twist wires together in a clockwise direction and not just one on top of the other and no uninsulated wire exposed.

Jim

 

[Salty Dog]

You could always wrap the wire nuts with electrical tape if you are really concerned - I do that with a lot of my connections to keep the salt out.

Eric

 

[Leroy]

I gave an alternative to theone since he didn't like the wire nuts just hanging around. Another choice, butt splices and clip splice.

 

[jpg]

I would use a 4x4 PVC weather tight box to make the splice in , or due like charga said and but splice the wires , individually heat shrink wrap them then wrap all ogether with a shrink tube .

 

[Jim Tansey]

If your concern is moisture you can make a good end/end splice and cover with adhesive lined shrink tube, it will be water tight this method is widely used in the marine industry. The adhesive lined shrink tube can be purchased at any marine store.

Jim

 

[theone]

Thanks everyone. I will look into all those ideas. I will first have to find out the differences in all those splice methods and where to find the supplies.

 

[JohnK]

Hey Jim T, what do you mean by "marine store"? Boat store?

jk

 

[smcnally]

As Steve said wire nuts are very safe, I will add if properly installed, twist wires together in a clockwise direction and not just one on top of the other and no uninsulated wire exposed.

Jim

I would never suggest tinning these wires. I've heard it can be bad to solder these types of wire. Like I mentioned earlier, wire nuts are the only way to do this and have it meet code.

I would use a 4x4 PVC weather tight box to make the splice in , or due like charga said and but splice the wires , individually heat shrink wrap them then wrap all ogether with a shrink tube .

Butt-splices are also not meant for this usage. A butt-splice used on one of these wires can very easily start a fire.

 

[Jim Tansey]

jimmj7090'

Yes boat store, done correctly it gives a tight waterproof seal, its the same stuff you see on many probes in the aquarium industry and others like temp, pH, ORP etc.

Jim

 

[Jill & Brian]

Use shrink tubing over the wire nuts and fill the open ends with silicone after shrinking to keep out the moisture

 

[NateHanson]

If the concern is code, then you aren't allowed to make ANY connection outside of a junction box. Marine connections are good for salty environments, but keep in mind that they are mostly rated for low-voltage DC systems (12, 24, and 48V). I don't know what the voltage and currents are for the MH wires between bulb and ballast.

Is this connection being made inside the ballast housing? If so, I believe it's code to use ring-terminals or spade connectors. These crimp or solder on. They are often found inside motor housings.

If the connection is being made under the canopy, I'd install a small PVC weatherproof junction box, or even an access box (not approved for connections, but used for pulling wire). They're smaller, and might fit in a smaller canopy.

My first priority would be keeping the connections dry, and making them secure. Loose or corroded connections create heat, which can start a fire.

Adhesive shrink tube is good stuff for marinizing your connections, as is "Liquid Electrical Tape". If you're buying shrink tube, make sure you're getting the adhesive-lined stuff. Most of the stuff in radio-shack or HD is not adhesive lined, and is not useful for keeping water out.

 

[theone]

there is no ballast housing. its just two icecap ballasts with wires coming out.

From the light, the wire comes out, and I looped it out and up and fastened it to the top of the tempo canopy. It then goes down, loops up to the inside of the stand where its wired to the ballast and that is wired to power.

I'm using heavy gauge and very well insulated wire that came with the set-up. Got them from Mike Walsh

The ballast is screwed to one of the 2X4 legs of the stand.

 

[NateHanson]

Can you open the ballast? if so, you might be able to just connect your wires inside the ballast, but replacing those pigtails that are coming out of the ballast.

I'm not familiar with icecap ballasts, so I don't know. I've done this with the ballasts I've used on my tanks though. Any connection you can eliminate is good in any wiring.

 

[theone]

dont think I can open them

they are just like the ones in this thread

http://www.bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=47017&highlight=icecap

 

[smcnally]

Nate, if I remember correctly, the crimp on butt connectors and spades are not to be used on these wires. IIRC, the issue is the amperage draw during the firing of the bulbs which can cause hot spots where the crimp makes contact and can cause a fire. Even when using wire nuts, you should try not to put stranded wire against solid core wire (at the bulb end) you want to match the wire at bothe ends as best as you can. This too can cause hot spots and a fire.

 

[theone]

So I got 2 metal box's for right out of the ballast which will be under the stand and out of sight.

For the top connections I got the gray plastic connection box's.

I'll cover them both with blanks and use wire nuts inside.

Should I connect the ground to the metal box?

Thanks for all the ideas everyone. I think this will work for me.