Alkalinity and burnt acro tips

IPWitan

Non-member
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1297225
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2016/9/aafeature

I came across the last thread where Randy Holmes was soliciting observations about the effects of high alkalinity on corals. After reading the article, I became fairly convinced that many corals suffered from burnt tips. The alk steadily rose in the tank from about 8 dkh to about 11-12 over a 3 week period. This was caused by having trouble dialing in my dosing pumps, an algae bloom caused by me adding hot water when my return pump stopped and tank cooled. The water was NOT RO water. In any case, either the cold water or my correction caused coral growth to slow considerably, which resulted in alk climbing as the dosing pump continued to add more than was usually consumed.

I wasn't really concerned about the rising alk because it was still within the accepted range of 7-11 dkh. See first link. But in reading the RC thread, it seems clear that some can keep alk at 11 while others suffer burnt tips. A recent article in Advanced Aquarist explored this issue, but didn't reach a conclusion. See third link. I haven't read anything that explains why some can keep the tank at 11 dkh, while others suffer problems.

For sake of research I have noted the effect on my creatures. Not all creatures suffered signs of trauma. The LPS and zoanthid had no reaction. the Acans seem to recede after I corrected the alk to 8. The SPS are listed by name, as purchased.

Glowstix - no effect
Bonsai - no effect
Forest fire digitatus - no effect
Red planet - no effect
Strawberry shortcake - no effect
Upscale microclados - no effect

Bubble gum milli - no effect (maybe paler)
Neon green milli - no effect (maybe paler)
Ultimate Blue staghorn - seems to have paled, but not showing burnt tips

Blue Rim tenius - burnt tip
green slimer - burnt tip
Ora Hawkins Enchinata - burnt tip
Joe the Coral - burnt tip
Purple Slimer - burnt tips
Purple acro - base and internal stems burnt, but not tips
2 Setosa - burnt edges

Lime in the Sky Slimer - severely affected (may die...has some remaining color)
Blue acros - severely affected (probably going to die)
Acro (thought was red planet until it turned turquoise) - severely burnt, likely going to die
Reef exotic rainbow - severly burnt, probably going to die.

The ones that fared the best are all in high light areas - center up high. However, some that did not fair well are right next to them.

So for me, I have decided to keep my alk at 8-9 and take action if elevates higher. Ca at 440. Mag at 1290. SG at 1.024-1.025. All corals have a fairly high flow (2 1500 Koralias, Jebao pp8 at max on pulse, 500 gal return) on a standard 75. Lights are ATI 6 bulb t5 (3b+,1 coral+, 1 actinic, 1 purple).

I have a refugium and bubble algae in display. My old P test said zero phosphates. I recently changed refugium bulbs from a 3000k LED, to a 5100K LED, to a 6500 K cfl. (1200 lumens)

Thinking that phosphates were a problem, I bought GFO, a reactor for GFO/carbon and a hanna checker. Hanna shows 0.0 phosphates (checked twice - is that possible?). Installed BRS reactor with 1/4 cup gfo and 2 cups carbon. No noticeable effect of reactor after 1 week.

I guess I am curious if others have had consistent findings. What effects of high alk have you noticed, if any? Studies suggest that elevated alk can increase growth, but not in my tank...
 
Most recent - Dec 1 2016 - zoom in for pics of tips/damage


Oct 2016 photo. Some corals moves. Birdsnet do not survive in my tank, perhaps because of the alk swings.
 
I've had many huge swings in alkalinity over the years. As long as it's UP, I've never had a real issue unless I cause a pump to stop working due to calcium carbonate precipitation in the pump impeller region where it gets warm. I generally always keep my tank above ~10 dkH and find that alkalinity dips or periods of low water motion are the biggest problems.
 
Im not so sure its the alk alone . i've seen swings like crazy and no problems . I believe it is more damaging in a ULNS system for sure . if you have some phosphate and nitrate in your system and you get a swing most times things seem ok .
 
I have never thought my system was ULNS, but maybe it is. I don't recall the last time a test registered phosphates or nitrates, but I do have bubble algae in the tank and the snails are grazing on something. Is it really possible for a Hanna checker to display 0.0 phosphates? So there is phosphate/nitrate somewhere. I have never used supplements other than 2 part. Carbon used to be in a bag with probably no flow, changed every 3-6 months - in a BRS reactor now... I do water changes at best 15% every month, usually stretches to 6-8 weeks. I feed the fish at least 1 froze cube a day - never rinsed. I have a refugium but I cannot say it is looking great. Cotton candy algae is in there. The tank has lots of porous rock and an active clean up crew. Fish are fat, breeding, and don't bite me! The corals that are happy grow well - frags double in size in 3 months. Birdsnest don't last. Acans recede. Frogspawn, zoanthid, and toadstools very happy.

I guess I am trying to say that if it is ULNS, then it is clearly unintentional. While I give the tank attention, I do NOT spend tons of money. I think I will take some close ups of the corals so I can track their death or recovery. Sometimes it is difficult to tell if things are getting better or worse, but the ones with burnt tips seem to be doing much better and appear to be recovering.

I had read somewhere that birdsnest corals where the authors alarm bell. For me, I had have two birdsnests. At one point it was the best looking coral in the tank. Then all of a sudden it shed its flesh and died. I couldn't stop it from dying. I tried again with another birdsnest. It looked great...until it didn't. Looking back at my notes, the alk had climbed from the 8-9 into the 10-11 range over the period of a week or two.


Thanks for the comments.
 
After some research it seems that for ULN tanks, keep the alk lower in the 7-8 range.

Randy Holmes-Farley (June 8, 2016 http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-tank-high-alkalinity.252335/) "FFIW, my recommend alk range is generally 7-11 dKH, unless it is an ultra low nutrient system."

Why? No one knows (or at least the paper hasn't been published yet) So I guess this is where everyone jumps in to say that they have zero nitrates and phosphates and a dkh of 11, and everything is growing great. The irony of course is that I truly believe that a dirty tank is a healthier tank, and I thought I was going that route. I guess I will simply get more emerald crabs to eat the bubble algae, keep alk at 7-8, feed the fish as much as I want, and move on.
 
Chasing numbers will drive you crazy. I find if I only run my skimmer on weekends, that my corals do better. Like you, I think the "dirtier" water helps.
 
I think I may have discovered my problem - low salinity. My refractometer was registering 1.025, but I believe it was closer to 1.021. I had considered this as an issue but didn't have enough table salt to create a salinity sample. After buying some emerald craps, I asked the guy at LTR to measure the salinity of the tank that had the water in it for the crabs. 1.022. My measurement of the same water was 1.026. I made a salinity solution per this article http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.htm and my measurement was 1.030. This means I am off by .004. I have a feeling it dropped and the prism became displace. I cannot adjust it any more than it is... For what its worth, my hydrometer measures 1.000 in RODI water.

So I took a ton of pictures and began the process of increasing salinity. Man i hope this fixes my issues.

PS - Great idea for the next meeting - A fun hydrometer calibration party! ...but let one of the chemists make the solution.
 
Back
Top